20 year tune up questions.

[budlavek]

Hi All,
I am a new member but a LONG time expy owner.

I have a 2003 4x4 eddie bower with about 150k miles since new.
Its been a GREAT car and is completely stock except the radio which would eat CD's.

I want to give it some love.

At first.

Im thinking about getting drilled/slotted rotors with new calipers and metal lines.

I want MORE stopping power - I've always hated how it stops even when NOT towing anything the pedal "feel" is very bad it goes way down and the suv takes long to stop.

Which setup would you all recommend ?

I do tow a 6k boat sometimes which has surge brakes so no need for electric controller.

Also - I have a budget for the brakes of about $2500.00 for front and rear

I would like to spend less if possible because after the brakes, I would like to change the shocks / struts. (whats recommended?)

Then get the tranny serviced.



Thank you,
-A

 

[budlavek]

https://www.jegs.com/i/Power-Stop/4...submodel=EDDIE+BAUER&engine=V8+(+5.4L+/+330+)

considering the above -- any thoughts.
Ive done a search in the forum and theres some info but not much.
I will also be doing the metal lines if I can source them.

Thanks,
-A

 

[budlavek]

Come on guys ?
im sure someone has done this and has a recommendation.

 

[Trainmaster]

Save the $2500 to put toward a newer truck when this one finally gives up the ghost. It's not "if," but "when".

I don't think drilled/slotted rotors will do much but make some Chinese company a few bucks. If you want aggressive breaking, get a set of metallic pads and be done with it.

Hate to sound discouraging, but This thing's pushing 20 years old and that's borrowed time...

 

[Hamfisted]

Are you the original owner ? What brake pads are on there now ? There are pads out there that provide a little improvement over the stock pads. Rotors are a personal preference, use what you want. The Akebono ASP934A is a great performance ceramic pad, and low dust for the fronts. The Akebono ACT935 are good for the rear. Are your brake lines damaged or corroded, that you want to replace them at 150k miles ?

 

[budlavek]

Thanks for the reply - Yes - I am the original owner. The current pad were some nice aftermarket ones specific to towing.
At that time I replace the rotors with OEM ones.
The lines are good - But im expecting / hoping to get less "mushy'ness" out of the pedal

Wheels are 22" "tires are 305/40/22 i think"

The shocks are original so I will be doing them also

 

[budlavek]

Save the $2500 to put toward a newer truck when this one finally gives up the ghost. It's not "if," but "when".

I don't think drilled/slotted rotors will do much but make some Chinese company a few bucks. If you want aggressive breaking, get a set of metallic pads and be done with it.

Hate to sound discouraging, but This thing's pushing 20 years old and that's borrowed time...

I hear what you are saying ... my wife said the same thing. And the AC does not work and needs repair.....

 

[Trainmaster]

I would see if the AC could be repaired with a quick fix, put a new pair of rotors and metallic pads on it and keep the old girl running. They don't last forever.

 

[joethefordguy]

i would go with the heaviest premium solid rotors available. for heavy duty use, such as towing, you want something that will hold a lot of heat. drilling, etc., help it shed heat quicker than otherwise, but diminish the heat holding capacity. you're not going racing, so you can do without that - you want to be able to stop a heavy load, hence you're going to have to handle a lot of heat.

 

[BlackCoffee]

The pedal going all the way to the floor doesn't right. I have an 2003 EB with 270K miles. I have done several brake jobs and each time the pedal travel is good. I have tried several aftermarket pads, calipers, and rotors. Other than the pads themselves, good stock rotors and calipers work pretty well. I used Autozone, slotted rotors last time and they are pretty good. Good pads from EBC or Powerstop should be good. I did have on rotor that warped overtime, it was the Powerstop. If the pedal is going to the floor, I would checkout your Brake Booster. Easy to change, and that may be the problem. I agree with Hamfisted, ceramic pads seem to work the best and do not produce the noise of metallic pads.

Unless something drastic has happened, I would think your transmission just needs a fluid change. Much else would use up a big hunk of your budget. My transmission lost overdrive at 250K and required a rebuild. So, you could have 100K left.

I replaced my radio with a Crutchfield setup and put in a backup camera. Helps with the trailer. That would run about $350-$400.

Not sure you need to worry about struts, do the bounce test. Does it nose dive in a stop? I am doing my front struts now, and it is not that hard or expensive. In fact, the only reason I am doing it is because I need to replace the upper ball joints and control arms. Which is really something you should inspect. If you want to tow, make sure your steering is in good shape.

Hope this helps.

 

[the bus]

Yep been down this road. I like to keep my old expedition running too in top condition. Yes the brakes are lacking. I had napa drilled and slotted rotors years after warping the originals twice within 30k. Skip ahead to 170k... got power stop drilles and slotted rotors and akebono higher performance pads. I think other pads may have more bite than these, but these are okay. I bought a new 4 runner and those brakes are outstanding!!

 

[Broncoholic]

I've had my 2003 5.4 Eddie since 2004 when it was 1 year used. I've tried a full set of slotted/dimpled rotors years ago. After about 20k miles, they would vibrate like a bad wheel bearing. I switched everything to the best pads and rotors I could get from Autozone and that set has been great for years.

As for the peeps saying "save the money for your next truck when this one dies", you do you. I love my truck, I know how it's been maintained and how reliable it's been. I just spent $2k at Ford to have them fix my AC. My parent's Lincoln service manager told them 8 years ago to tell me never sell it, or let him know when I want to sell it, because this year was built like a tank. He checks with them to make sure I still have it every time they go in. I have 168k miles on it and I plan to get to 250k, which aught to be another 8 years-ish.

I'd suggest putting your $2500 into AC (a requirement for me in FL), and a good set of name brand brakes. Maybe some new rubber lines and brake fluid flush will help with the spongy pedal feel. I'm considering this for mine for similar reasoning.

 

[expyaddict]

I had the front rotors done in Aug 2020 on my 2003 XLT 4x4 with 198K miles. I didn't ask for anything special. So I'm assuming I received plain/regular replacement front rotors. But this is the main reason I want to keep it!!! The vibration in the steering went from occasionally quite rough at highway speeds to smooth as silk. I was stunned it was so nice. I feel a slight tickle from the rear rotors (but only at 75+ mph only...ok 80+ sshhh don't tell anyone), my mechanic said I should just wait on the rear rotors until the pads wear out. (as long as the vibration doesn't get worse)

I have NEVER felt the braking, or braking distance was remotely unacceptable. If I stand on the brake pedal, it stops in a hurry. If it isn't soft or mushy and it certainly has never gone to the floor. So I'm wondering if OP has a different issue vs. just needing new rotors. Something hydraulic perhaps?

 

[budlavek]

Thanks for all the input guys. I guess my description was a bit off - the pedal does NOT go to the floor it is just very spongy.
Does the truck stop ... ? - Yes ... Could it be MUCH better ... ? (I think so.)

So - I went with the PowerStop Z36 rotors and pads along with Monroe struts.
I could not find any stainless brake lines (Please help me find a place to purchase them if possible. I am specifically talking about the line from the caliper to the metal brake tube all four wheels.) I also found that the PowerStop calipers are equivalent to the OE - so since the current calipers are not leaking I will not change them at this time. I will flush the brake fluid along with changing the oils and filters (engine, tranny, transfer case, diff)

Anything else I should tackle at this time ? BTW ... the cooling system was just done recently with a new thermostat, new rubber tubes, and fresh coolant.

Thanks again
-A



Part no.: P15K193336 x 1
Powerstop Brake Disc and Pad Kit




Part no.: P15K193536 x 1
Powerstop Brake Disc and Pad Kit



Part no.: TS181369 x 2
Monroe Shock Absorber and Strut Assembly

Part no.: TS181370 x 2
Monroe Shock Absorber and Strut Assembly

 

[foreverme67]

I I have a 2003 Ford Expedition 5.4 Eddie Bauer with 251,000 miles on the odometer and it is only just now having to have the cylinder head gasket replaced. Besides that and a few other things that I have already repaired or replaced, my truck has been an absolute Beast of a Champion in almost every single category driving any vehicle in every condition possible and it has surpassed Indian Hill all the expectations. So don't listen to that "train whatever dude"... trust your instincts. trust your truck.

Sent from my moto g stylus using Tapatalk

 

[SRQ Bill]

I got some from rock auto and they are great!

 

[budlavek]

I got some from rock auto and they are great!

What did you get and what do you like about them?

 

[joethefordguy]

I've had my 2003 5.4 Eddie since 2004 when it was 1 year used. I've tried a full set of slotted/dimpled rotors years ago. After about 20k miles, they would vibrate like a bad wheel bearing. I switched everything to the best pads and rotors I could get from Autozone and that set has been great for years.

As for the peeps saying "save the money for your next truck when this one dies", you do you. I love my truck, I know how it's been maintained and how reliable it's been. I just spent $2k at Ford to have them fix my AC. My parent's Lincoln service manager told them 8 years ago to tell me never sell it, or let him know when I want to sell it, because this year was built like a tank. He checks with them to make sure I still have it every time they go in. I have 168k miles on it and I plan to get to 250k, which aught to be another 8 years-ish.

I'd suggest putting your $2500 into AC (a requirement for me in FL), and a good set of name brand brakes. Maybe some new rubber lines and brake fluid flush will help with the spongy pedal feel. I'm considering this for mine for similar reasoning.

I have to agree. The way I look at it, the correct financial comparison to make is the amount you'd spend to keep your existing truck - replace/repair engine, AC, whatever, compared to what would it cost to find an equivalent truck.
the "equivalent" is the hard part. You know your vehicle's history, what's gone into it, and so on. That would be hard to find out about a used vehicle unless you're getting it from family or such.

 

[Fuzzy]

I just replaced the master cylinder on my 04. I would like to change my braided lines as well.

I think you are on the right track. If you can't buy new enough to get a warranty then remember "the devil you know is better than the one you don't"

 

[SRQ Bill]

Actually I got em off eBay. My original brakes, well you had to stand on em pretty hard. Here are much, much better.