Ways to add MPG in a $$$ Gas Price Economy!

[DWs-TTEB]

With the current crazy gas prices rising daily, lets share ways to maximize our MPG.

0. I modified my front lower valance by cutting on the factory line/seam making it identical to an FX4 valance (didn't notice any added MPGs)
1. I installed new NGK colder (7) than stock spark plugs (stock plugs had 47K)
2. Unloaded my 5Star 93 Performance tune & loaded my 5Star 93 Daily street/tow tune.

*I am now netting an AVG 17.2 MPG. Up from a 14.4 MPG AVG.
+3. Next I am mounting my stock (275/65/18"x8.5" Michelins) tire/wheel package (current tires/wheels= LT285/65/18"x9" E rated/10 ply General Grabbers ATX on Mayhem rims ) & will update this thread with the added MPGs.
+4. I may load my 89 Daily/tow 5Star tune.
+5. Never fill up the gas tank more then half full (I have a MAX | 27 gallon tank).
+6. Remove the spare tire.
Background, I also 90% of the time drive this rig unloaded/empty with only me in it. Run in 4A 100% with 3.31 rear gears.

Looking forward to the community's feedback & conversations!

 

[sjwelds]

Why only half full on the gas tank? Just for weight savings?

Yeah my 12 gets barely 13 mpg running around. Really bites at today's gas prices.

 

[Alwaysthinkin]

Just hoping no one suggests National Speed Limit of 55mph.

Curious to see what suggestions are brought forward. I just selected to Watch this thread.

 

[DWs-TTEB]

Why only half full on the gas tank? Just for weight savings?

Yeah my 12 gets barely 13 mpg running around. Really bites at today's gas prices.

Yes for weight savings (13.5 gallons vs 27 gals or 81lbs to 162lbs in gas weight)

 

[DWs-TTEB]

Gas prices in my area (Augusta GA)

 

[Kevmobile]

decat ur engine, installing a larger valance would yield better mpg. lowering your truck, regear your rear diff/front diff if u have one. unplugging the fuse for the front diff actuator would keep you in 2x4.

 

[lv2drive]

+1 on the NGK plugs! - did mine at 53k, my MPG avg bumped up from 17 to 19 combined. running E rated ultralight Nokian Rotiiva ATplus, 93oct, drivetrain in 4A normal 24/7.

 

[Emilner]

I think filling a gas tank half way and dropping a spare to save weight is a bit over the top. One question I do have- With the extreme pressure on OEMs to increase gas mileage and the expensive lengths they go to get that 1/10th of a gallon- why wouldn't they swap plugs that would yield an extra 1-2mpg?

 

[KFordEx8]

Why drive in 4A all the time?

 

[MattG]

Going from an AT tire back to an HT tire will absolutely improve fuel mileage.
Drive in ECO mode whenever you can.

I don't believe there is much value in removing the spare, minimal if any impact on this heavy vehicle as is and you never know when you'll be stuck in need of the spare. I use to be big time into modified trucks and been there done that so to speak.

If you can, drive off peak hours for less congestion of traffic, highway use instead of street driving whenever possible.
Plan/be more diligent with your driving. Maybe cut out/lessen unnecessary drives.

I run my own build/renovate/emergency construction company and being on the road a LOT comes with it. I use the inflated gas prices as a way to justify to myself to work from my home office when I can and be available more for my kids.

 

[sjwhiteley]

Based on my own experiences, ‘street’ tires, correctly inflated and running in ECO mode; plus crawling away from stops (the more you annoy people behind you, the better your economy - I.e. you won’t be in the left lane much!). Drive slower (can’t believe I’m saying that).

Lastly, drive a cheaper, more economical car. It’ll take you a decade or more to justify it, but hey, saving the planet, right? Right!? (This part is facetious, of course, but there are some people out there that seriously see this as the only option).

 

[DWs-TTEB]

Why drive in 4A all the time?

It tightens up the handling & It rides smoother in 4A. Get the same MPGs as 2WD in 4A.

 

[JasonH]

I leave my Expedition at home and drive the electric car.

 

[Emilner]

It tightens up the handling & It rides smoother in 4A. Get the same MPGs as 2WD in 4A.

I have the exact opposite experience. In 4a the truck is not as smooth especially on tight turns and my mileage drops. In 4a mode you are engaging the front hubs, axles, diff and driveshaft which will certainly take more fuel to accomplish. The only difference over 4wd is the transfer case front clutches are not engaged unless the system detects wheel slippage.

 

[lv2drive]

I have the exact opposite experience. In 4a the truck is not as smooth especially on tight turns and my mileage drops. In 4a mode you are engaging the front hubs, axles, diff and driveshaft which will certainly take more fuel to accomplish. The only difference over 4wd is the transfer case front clutches are not engaged unless the system detects wheel slippage.

apologies for the long post...

one would certainly assume that the front axel spinning would consume more gas - as i also initially assumed. but, to my surprise, in real world conditions, i’ve had zero noticeable difference in mpg, over the past 2 years / 20k miles, when comparing 4A normal to 2A normal, same gas station - same routes.

steering wheel heaviness, response, & accuracy significantly improves with 4A, most noticeable on straight highway tracking & sharp corners with the tighter, heavier, more stable wheel...

with all this power, the 4A traction is by far superior, for heavy acceleration from stop, & accelerating out of a steep corner, & i would rather have 4A re-distribute power instantly instead of the slip control applying the brakes to a single wheel. maybe it’s because i learned how to drive on quattro... but the difference is so noticeable for me, i honestly can’t run the vehicle in 2A anymore - at least for my driving style & local roads.

engaging sport mode puts it in 4A automatically. surely there’s a reason for that ... ? i don’t run in sport because i prefer the normal shift points, but i did steal the idea of running in 4A from testing sport mode... i don’t run eco because i’d rather do my own eco mode by going light on the throttle & have full power instantly if i need it for any reason. currently averaging 20-22 on highway trips in 4A normal with my Rotiiva AT plus E’s, with ultra-low rolling resistance / lightweight sidewalls. i feel like it’s the best balance for MPG & driveability / safety for me in all weather conditions.

for any small payload trips, if i commute, or just want better mpg’s, i just downsize & take the diesel touareg @ 30mpg.

 

[Fastcar]

+1 on the NGK plugs! - did mine at 53k, my MPG avg bumped up from 17 to 19 combined. running E rated ultralight Nokian Rotiiva ATplus, 93oct, drivetrain in 4A normal 24/7.

Wondering if the jump in gas mileage was due to the original plugs being pretty well used up and replaced with new plugs was the cause of the increase and not due to the brand.

 

[lv2drive]

Wondering if the jump in gas mileage was due to the original plugs being pretty well used up and replaced with new plugs was the cause of the increase and not due to the brand.

probably a little of both if i had to guess / i’m confident the ngk’s are an improvement over oem

 

[DWs-TTEB]

one would certainly assume that the front axel spinning would consume more gas - as i also initially assumed. but, to my surprise, in real world conditions, i’ve had zero noticeable difference in mpg, over the past 2 years / 20k miles, when comparing 4A normal to 2A normal, same gas station - same routes.

steering wheel heaviness, response, & accuracy significantly improves with 4A, most noticeable on straight highway tracking & sharp corners with the tighter, heavier, more stable wheel...

with all this power, the 4A traction is by far superior, for heavy acceleration from stop, & accelerating out of a steep corner, & i would rather have 4A re-distribute power instantly instead of the slip control applying the brakes to a single wheel. maybe it’s because i learned how to drive on quattro... but the difference is so noticeable for me, i honestly can’t run the vehicle in 2A anymore - at least for my driving style & local roads.

engaging sport mode puts it in 4A automatically. surely there’s a reason for that ... ? i don’t run in sport because i prefer the normal shift points, but i did steal the idea of running in 4A from testing sport mode... i don’t run eco because i’d rather do my own eco mode by going light on the throttle & have full power instantly if i need it for any reason. currently averaging 20-22 on highway trips in 4A normal with my Rotiiva AT plus E’s, with ultra-low rolling resistance / lightweight sidewalls. i feel like it’s the best balance for MPG & driveability / safety for me in all weather conditions.

for any small payload trips, if i commute, or just want better mpg’s, i just downsize & take the diesel touareg @ 30mpg.

I could not agree more with you here @lv2drive well said/typed.

 

[Hamfisted]

Wash and wax your Expy. Aerodynamic resistance kills gas mileage on these refrigerators, and whatever you can do to lower it will definitely help your mileage. Run the tires at a proper inflation too.

 

[KFordEx8]

It tightens up the handling & It rides smoother in 4A. Get the same MPGs as 2WD in 4A.

I’ll give it a try.

probably a little of both if i had to guess / i’m confident the ngk’s are an improvement over oem

Think there would be any benefit to switching to these NGK’s when the ones from the factory are not worn out?