Transmission Cooler for 2018 Expedition/Navigator 4x4

[Silver-Bullet-Bus]

There is a deeper aluminum trans pan out there. Someone posted about it somewhere in this forum.

Man if anyone has more details on that trans cooler, like part numbers for everything I would really like to do that! The engine oil cooler would be nice too.

Mine works great!

 

[Silver-Bullet-Bus]

Mine works great!

View attachment 78850

 

[Silver-Bullet-Bus]

Oil cooler mounted behind the IC

 

[Shakeandbake]

I didn't want to start a new thread.. but do all 22+ now have oil coolers? I searched under my Timberline, expecting to see the Raptor style oil cooler... but don't see it in the front. Searching my VIN there seems to be a Trans Oil Cooler: Part# ML3Z7869C

https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/transmission/powertrain-engine-parts/automatic-transmission-oil-cooler-%28at%29-p-ml3z7869c?pdp=y

 

[theblackpearl]

Hilly,

10R80, PBH cooler adapter bracket at the bottom.

My Ford mechanic builds race cars, does all the 3.5 VCT’s, & mustang supercharger installs & enjoys doing custom work.

We towed today & ECT’s were 190-210 200-210 was really getting after through a steep hilly section & pulling fourth & fifth gear. Tranny ran 140-180 (around 150, flat towing around 70 mph (est. 8,000#).

How did we do it:

We just removed the ford trans hx & all the coolant lines to & from the engine to the faux trans cooler (hx).

Think about this:
the way ford has it set up, your trans can only get as cool as whatever your ECT is running ‍

I went over to Parker-Hannifin-custom hose-shop & got 2 lines made & gave them to my mechanic.

I can only assume he somehow took care of the original coolant lines going back & forth to the faux cooler (hx)—(it’s in my basement or garage)

Almost forgot: running a mishimoto F150 radiator & just switch to a

REISCHE 170*, which made a very nice improvement this spring over the 180* I was running, last year (stock is 190*)​

View attachment 77780
Oil cooler
View attachment 77779

View attachment 77778

View attachment 77777
3.5

So I've read that the optimum operating range of the 10R80 transmission on these cars is between 200-220... and they don't perform well when it is 170-180F: have heard that they get jerky below this range. How are you accounting for that?

 

[gtr09]

So I've read that the optimum operating range of the 10R80 transmission on these cars is between 200-220... and they don't perform well when it is 170-180F: have heard that they get jerky below this range. How are you accounting for that?

I've never heard that. Mine runs fine at 180 - 190. I have the SPD 180 thermostat. I might switch to the 170 to get the trans a little lower.

 

[LazSlate]

I've never heard that. Mine runs fine at 180 - 190. I have the SPD 180 thermostat. I might switch to the 170 to get the trans a little lower.

From another forum

Be aware that running a cooler thermostat is likely to modestly shorten the life of the engine.

Modern engines are designed to operate at a high internal temperature to ensure a clean, complete burn as well as good lubricity and minimal water content in the engine oil.

As such, the tolerances and clearances are also designed with that temperature in mind. Due to differing thermal expansion rates of dissimilar materials, running significantly above or below the designed temperature range can result in accelerated wear. This won't happen overnight (especially in the case of a 180°F thermostat), but the effect of running the engine cooler than designed is similar to running it with more cold starts.

In addition, the lower operating temperature will result in a poorer burn of the fuel, increasing carbon and other deposits on valves, cylinders, and in the exhaust (including the turbochargers). The additional unburnt portion is usually burnt up in the catalytic converter, so emissions differences are negligible, but the catalytic converter will run hotter.

All in all, it won't be a large difference, but I wouldn't be surprised to see a 5-15% real world reduction in engine service life as a result. (Fuel economy may also suffer to a small degree.)

Some of these effects can be mitigated by running thinner weight oil, especially oils that flow easier at mid-temperatures. For example, 0W-30 in lieu of 5W-30 might help offset some of the impacts.

 

[gtr09]

From another forum

Be aware that running a cooler thermostat is likely to modestly shorten the life of the engine.

Modern engines are designed to operate at a high internal temperature to ensure a clean, complete burn as well as good lubricity and minimal water content in the engine oil.

As such, the tolerances and clearances are also designed with that temperature in mind. Due to differing thermal expansion rates of dissimilar materials, running significantly above or below the designed temperature range can result in accelerated wear. This won't happen overnight (especially in the case of a 180°F thermostat), but the effect of running the engine cooler than designed is similar to running it with more cold starts.

In addition, the lower operating temperature will result in a poorer burn of the fuel, increasing carbon and other deposits on valves, cylinders, and in the exhaust (including the turbochargers). The additional unburnt portion is usually burnt up in the catalytic converter, so emissions differences are negligible, but the catalytic converter will run hotter.

All in all, it won't be a large difference, but I wouldn't be surprised to see a 5-15% real world reduction in engine service life as a result. (Fuel economy may also suffer to a small degree.)

Some of these effects can be mitigated by running thinner weight oil, especially oils that flow easier at mid-temperatures. For example, 0W-30 in lieu of 5W-30 might help offset some of the impacts.

He's talking about the engine, not the trans. Yes agreed lower engine temp causes more emissions (NOx), and the slower time to regular operating temp from cold start could make a minute mpg difference. Ideally the trans would have a seperate cooling system from the engine but they are tied in our cars, so lowering engine temp a bit is an easy way to lower trans temp. The direct injection only Ecoboosts already have carbon buildup issues, don't think a lower temp would make any difference there, they are all going to need a valve cleaning at some point. The later port+direct injection Ecoboosts don't have that issue, so again, doubt there will be any change. As far as a reduction in engine life because you dropped the average operating temp 10 or 15 degress? I don't believe that either.

What we do know, is that people's transmissions are failing and towing heavy loads up a hill are causing people to hit 240+, which is no bueno and has real consequences, not theoretical consequences. Here's an article that touches on heat vs 10R80

 

[BMW2FORD]

Recently I rented a 2023 Suburban which has the same 10 speed only difference is that GM calls is a 10L90 and the programming was a little different for shifting. For the week I had that truck, it was over 100 degrees outside all day and the trans never went above 160 degrees. It had a pretty big air to fluid cooler in front of the radiator just for the transmission and a deep steel pan. What is GM on to? Everyone I also know with GM trucks have a lot less to complain about in terms of trans failures and they’ve been using it since 2018 in a lot of models. I hear a lot of people say the synthetic trans fluid is not the same and can handle 200+ degrees all day which is most likely true but what about all the rubber seals inside a transmission? I bet after 10 years of cycling from cold to 200+ those rubber seals will be pretty hardened and would fair much better if only getting to 160. I’m still under warranty but once out for sure I’ll be looking into an air to fluid cooler and convinced Ford is cooking this trans to get the fluid as thin as possible for less drag and emissions more than longevity.

 

[gtr09]

Recently I rented a 2023 Suburban which has the same 10 speed only difference is that GM calls is a 10L90 and the programming was a little different for shifting. For the week I had that truck, it was over 100 degrees outside all day and the trans never went above 160 degrees.

Yep, and that fits right in with the heat discussion in that article I posted.

FM: How much does heat play a part in the 10R80’s longevity?

JB: Cooling is a huge part of keeping the 10R80 alive and working well. I run a transmission cooler on anything above 700 horsepower. For a more intense transmission cooler, I run the Derale external transmission cooler mounted underneath the trunk with a fan. In most cases, I wire the fan to run continuously, regardless of whether I’m racing or just riding around town.

I also take out the thermal bypass, which lets the transmission fluid get to a certain temperature. The 10R80 works best at 150-160 degrees –anything cooler and the transmission gets finicky. With the thermal bypass removed, the fluid is allowed to flow all the time and is essentially creating a cooling process.

 

[duneslider]

I will say that I have talked to several transmission shops, not directly about the 10R80, but they have ALL said heat is the worst enemy. They pretty much said they would never worry about one getting too cold.

One of these guys was the one who rebuilt my Jeep's transmission and he said he required a certain size external cooler if I wanted a warranty. He said anyone that was saying they should run hot was not concerned with longevity and was more concerned with their bottom line.

 

[Left Coast Geek]

I've always thought its the torque converter slippage that makes most of the heat in an automatic transmission, and I thought the 10L80 used a TC lockup clutch in all gears, only using the torque converter to idle in first.

I've been towing for many years with a hoary old 4R100 4 speed, that has TC lockup in 3rd and 4th, and I used to watch the trans temp religiously with TorquePro ... The big one was a 4-3 downshift climbing a grade, if I stayed on the throttle, the TC lockup would take a LONG time to engage if ever, and the engine would be doing 500 or even 1000 RPM more than it would with TC lockup, and the trans oil temps would climb. So on that vehicle with that transmission, I would invoke 3rd (disable "OD") *before* the grade, and before I needed full power so it was in 3rd with TC lockup, then it would climb hills all day long without heating up, even if the engine was at the upper end of its RPM range. This was the big 7.3L Powerstroke on a 2002 F250, it pulled best in the 2000-2500 rpm range and cruised in the 1500-2000 rpm range

 

[Joe S]

I have the HD tow package and wanted extra cooling capacity, I decided to go with the Raptor cooler because it gives me a more cooling capacity but all great additions nonetheless...the Raptor cooler fit like a glove in the same location as my original HD cooler and it was an easy breezy swap...Bought mine from Ford Parts

 

[andyak]

Hey Joe -is this in a 4th gen expy - are you talking about a transmission cooler?

 

[LazSlate]

.

 

[Jeff Sweeney]

I bought a mishimoto raptor cooler, ran lines up front, got rid of the Tran-mounted heat exchanger, and eliminated the ECT lines that were originally coming down from the motor to deleted heat exchanger.

How has this been working for you?

 

[theblackpearl]

I have the HD tow package and wanted extra cooling capacity, I decided to go with the Raptor cooler because it gives me a more cooling capacity but all great additions nonetheless...the Raptor cooler fit like a glove in the same location as my original HD cooler and it was an easy breezy swap...Bought mine from Ford Parts

Do you have pics ? Would love to see some !

 

[Silver-Bullet-Bus]

So I've read that the optimum operating range of the 10R80 transmission on these cars is between 200-220... and they don't perform well when it is 170-180F: have heard that they get jerky below this range. How are you accounting for that?

They are jerky when towing, no matter what temp, in my experience.

For me, better when cooler & don’t lug the motor, run some rps with a lower gear, as opposed to trying to run boost & lug the motor with a higher gear.

 

[Silver-Bullet-Bus]

Yep, and that fits right in with the heat discussion in that article I posted.

Yup, I would agree.

I am friends with my local Ford dealership & they see way too many low mileage tranny issues. Bottom line & my opinion & my mechanics with these 10r80s is heat kills!

 

[Silver-Bullet-Bus]

From another forum

Be aware that running a cooler thermostat is likely to modestly shorten the life of the engine.

Modern engines are designed to operate at a high internal temperature to ensure a clean, complete burn as well as good lubricity and minimal water content in the engine oil.

As such, the tolerances and clearances are also designed with that temperature in mind. Due to differing thermal expansion rates of dissimilar materials, running significantly above or below the designed temperature range can result in accelerated wear. This won't happen overnight (especially in the case of a 180°F thermostat), but the effect of running the engine cooler than designed is similar to running it with more cold starts.

In addition, the lower operating temperature will result in a poorer burn of the fuel, increasing carbon and other deposits on valves, cylinders, and in the exhaust (including the turbochargers). The additional unburnt portion is usually burnt up in the catalytic converter, so emissions differences are negligible, but the catalytic converter will run hotter.

All in all, it won't be a large difference, but I wouldn't be surprised to see a 5-15% real world reduction in engine service life as a result. (Fuel economy may also suffer to a small degree.)

Some of these effects can be mitigated by running thinner weight oil, especially oils that flow easier at mid-temperatures. For example, 0W-30 in lieu of 5W-30 might help offset some of the impacts.

‍U think I’m worried about fuel economy running LPFP/HPFP, Garrett’s, & corn juice.
My engine is squeaky clean inside!