Engine warm up

This sparked an interesting conversation. My old man said he noticed this on both his 2011& 2016 Super Duties (prolonged high idle). Both ordered and bought new. Said his older trucks didn’t do that. And it’s got me thinking, my old Explorer idled right down too as far as I can remember...until I junked her. This Expedition has always warmed up a bit longer. After that initial start of the day it seems they don’t do the elevated idle again.

Did Ford do some changes to the ECU to keep these idling higher longer?

JExpedition07 said:

This sparked an interesting conversation. My old man said he noticed this on both his 2011& 2016 Super Duties (prolonged high idle). Both ordered and bought new. Said his older trucks didn’t do that. And it’s got me thinking, my old Explorer idled right down too as far as I can remember...until I junked her. This Expedition has always warmed up a bit longer. After that initial start of the day it seems they don’t do the elevated idle again.

Did Ford do some changes to the ECU to keep these idling higher longer?

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Could be for ever tougher emissions. Get the cats hot faster.

Here's a dumb thought. Your SUV won't kick off the high idle circuit from the computer, in even the warmest of Winters, here just outside of San Francisco, where I reside in. So why oh why would you drive off in below 0 degree's Fahrenheit with the engine racing at 1500 rpm or so? Are you really that pushed for time? Wake up 5 minutes earlier! Come on guys, you can try all the scientific crap you want, whether the motor will last or not, but really, another 4-6 minutes running your engine? I leave at 6:45 each morning, and my Suv runs for a minimum of 2 minutes Your worried about less than 1/4 gallon of fuel, sell your Expedition, and buy a hybrid. I heard Cadillac is making a 100 percent plug in, in 2020. Let the damn thing warm up, or move to a warmer climate, eh!

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First of all, all engines amaze me with running at all as well as they do and esp for as long as they do BUT I am amazed they tolerate the fairly two extremes they operate in.
The exact same vehicles live in 115 degree infernos and also in months of below freezing temps.

This gets me into my complaint that I think manufactures as far back as the 60s should have had different codes for rust belt states or cold etc.

Since new cars are sold at dealers and you know where they will be shipped to etc, vehicles going to MI for example should all have the winter and salt code.
Bigger CCA battery, limited slip axle, stainless brake lines (to hell with cost), factory undercoating....but this would have cut into add on sales and aftermarket like Ziebart I guess.

Kind of like you can get a 4x4 but often a package give you limited slip ans skid plates.

A little of this is seen in Florida and maybe other places.
I all my life in Ohio I had never seen a Grand Cherokee that wasn't 4wd. In Florida you will find lots. I passed on looking at a Navi a few months ago in FL because it was only 2wd.

I helped Kerry move her sister/husband up to Schenectady a couple of months ago and I remember wondering why folks up there have "regular cars" when they get REAL snow?

jeff

A source I trust says you can do more damage to your vehicle during extended warm ups.

https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/a19086/warming-up-your-car-in-the-cold-just-harms-engine/

From the article:


When your engine is cold, the gasoline is less likely to evaporate and create the correct ratio of air and vaporized fuel for combustion. Engines with electronic fuel injection have sensors that compensate for the cold by pumping more gasoline into the mixture. The engine continues to run rich in this way until it heats up to about 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

"That's a problem because you're actually putting extra fuel into the combustion chamber to make it burn and some of it can get onto the cylinder walls," Stephen Ciatti, a mechanical engineer who specializes in combustion engines at the Argonne National Laboratory, told Business Insider. "Gasoline is an outstanding solvent and it can actually wash oil off the walls if you run it in those cold idle conditions for an extended period of time."

The life of components like piston rings and cylinder liners can be significantly reduced by gasoline washing away the lubricating oil.

Driving your car is the fastest way to warm the engine up to 40 degrees so it switches back to a normal fuel to air ratio.

Here's another, road & track saying basically the same thing. This one has an engineer explaining why in detail.

https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/videos/a30249/why-you-shouldnt-warm-up-your-car/

If you want to start & drive, it's perfectly fine since it's your truck. We all perceive things differently and our beliefs are based on those perceptions....it's all good.

Critical thinking shows me that many factors were ignored, focusing solely on pros/cons of the single aspect while actually ignoring far more important ones, like skyrocketing the BMEP right at the moment of least lubrication(stone-cold startup) but to be fair, the authors have their perceptions as well...but their science is sorely lacking method fwiw.

A more cynical approach would be; "What does 40F have to do with anything other than a lower idle speed?

Heck, one was more worried about you seeing out of your windshield than the destruction going on in front of the firewall......

Trainm....put it perfectly....they are all good enough to handle nearly anything throughout the warranty periods.

Remember though, no one "is a dummy" for their opinions guys....no matter how you personally believe.

jeff

jeff kushner said:

I remember wondering why folks up there have "regular cars" when they get REAL snow?

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Because they're New Yorkers. The Government will take care of all their problems.

jeff kushner said:

If you want to start & drive, it's perfectly fine since it's your truck. We all perceive things differently and our beliefs are based on those perceptions....it's all good.

Critical thinking shows me that many factors were ignored, focusing solely on pros/cons of the single aspect while actually ignoring far more important ones, like skyrocketing the BMEP right at the moment of least lubrication(stone-cold startup) but to be fair, the authors have their perceptions as well...but their science is sorely lacking method fwiw.

A more cynical approach would be; "What does 40F have to do with anything other than a lower idle speed?

Heck, one was more worried about you seeing out of your windshield than the destruction going on in front of the firewall......

Trainm....put it perfectly....they are all good enough to handle nearly anything throughout the warranty periods.

Remember though, no one "is a dummy" for their opinions guys....no matter how you personally believe.

jeff

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Yes, their science is lacking.
Maybe more of an issue on old carbed cars with choke almost closed but modern cars are perfectly capable of keeping mixture not too out of control.

Cars go into closed loop withing seconds usually not minutes.

Washing the walls can be a concern BUT even in the old days when they said you could flood one our and "wash the rings away ( or out)" they meant a lot or extra fuel. Flooded plugs, non firing cylinders from so much fuel going in...AND even then it was only you could or might do damage.

No way a fuel injected car running normally is going to harm itself.
Articles like that are just doing what is so common now in society...Shaping the world and controlling peoples' actions by convincing them with "facts" and reasons, and statistics that are not exactly accurate or pertinent.