Where does the oil go?

I have 1999 EB 5.4 with 207K miles. It "uses" oil, meaning I have to add oil between changes, sometimes up to 1.5 quarts. I keep hearing that my Expy is "using" oil, but not sure what that means.

1. The ground is clean under it - no drips, no nothing.
2. There is no smell of burning oil coming from the exhaust, and the exhaust is colorless.
3. PCV seems normal - when I recently changed it, it was still "rattling" without issues.

I just put in some Lucas Oil Stabilizer to see if that helps, not really that concerned about it - BUT, my son (who is learning about cars) asked me and I did not have a good answer for him... and he called me on it (respectfully).

Thoughts?

No experience (and don't want any either) with the 5.4 Ford engines "using" oil.

Several of my Chevy small blocks have "used" oil over the years.

You say you have no spots on the floor. How about signs on the intake/valve covers, timing cover, etc? If it's leaking some it may burn/evaporate from engine/exhaust heat while you're driving it. You might not smell it with the windows up, speed of the vehicle, where the under hood air bleeds/vents to while the vehicle is moving. Not saying it is, just saying it can happen.

It doesn't smoke on start up? That (in the SBC) is s sign of oil leaking past valve seals. For some reason that seems to be worse sometimes than others. My 86 IROC did it the first few years I had it. It was called "The Bow Tie Salute." Then it stopped doing it. I was so used to it I failed to really notice when it stopped, but it hasn't done it for years.

It doesn't smoke when you hit the gas pedal, the transmission drops a gear or two and the rpm jumps up as fuel/air is dumped into the intake/cylinders?

It's going somewhere. Either leaking or burning. Somewhere, at some time, under some conditions it's got to show up.

With 207,000 miles, the motor's burning oil. A quart and a half between oil changes isn't much, so you won't see or smell it. "Normal" for this kind of mileage. I believe Ford considers a quart in 1000 miles to be okay even in a new engine before they authorize warranty work.

Some oil drips down valve stems into the cylinders due to worn seals, some oil pumps up into the cylinders via worn rings. There it's burned with the fuel. Make sure your PCV valve's not clogged and that system's working. A clogged PCV will permit pressure to build in the crankcase forcing more oil into the cylinders to be burnt.

Thickening oil with additives or using a thicker oil can lessen burning, at the risk of slightly poorer lubrication qualities, lessened fuel mileage and labored cranking in cold weather.

As stated, your engine is a bit worn and it is burning oil, what your losing is quite a small amount, so its unlikely you will see it as smoke, but it is burning it and you will find soot on the inside of your exhaust system. It really isn't doing much harm, the biggest risk is that it might block the catalytic converter over time, but a rebuild is very expensive so just live with it, but check the oil level regularly.. Given the timing chain issues on the expedition, I would NOT add additives to thicken the oil, just check the level regularly and replace it at the stated intervals. It will probably go for another 200K miles.

Gary

Thanks for the thoughts and replies.
Will just keep on plugging then.
I don’t think the Lucas will hurt anything - does not get that cold where I live. I will just make sure I keep changing fluids regularly - I use M1 5w-30 for oil - always had good luck with that.
I appreciate it.


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I too use Mobil 1 5w30, and burn more than you do. Mine is 1 year newer with half the mileage, 107k at present. Head gasket oil leaks are notorious on 99-02 models. It's possible that a combo of the head gaskets and weak oil rings cause the burn. At $6.00 or less per quart, I wouldn't sweat it. One of our members Toby U had good luck with marvel mystery oil in the crankcase, to slow down the burn. You use it once, about 600 miles or so before oil change. It frees up the Piston rings in some cases. Because the pre 05 models don't have cam phasers or solenoids, their is no side effect. Additives like this are not recommended on the 05 on up though.

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You may want to take a look at the side of motor where the head meets the block just above the starter motor. That's a common place for a head gasket leak at around 200,000 miles. Mine dripped a bit of oil and anti-freeze there.

I also have had great results with Restore engine treatment.

First of all, an 20 year old engine with 200K on it is more than likely GOING to use or lose some oil IF you use full synthetic.
I don't care WHAT people say or youtube videos.
I have seen it TOO many times and the last only being about 2 years ago so I am not talking about early synthetics or old cork gaskets!

5w30 should be a HM high mileage IF you are going to run a full syn in this type of situation.

In north Georgia there is no way I would be running a 5w-30 full syn.
Syn flows SOOO much better than conv when cold and it doesn't get "cold" there.

10w-30 full syn is completely fine in a 99 5.4 and a HM will help with use and leaks.

I am in SW Ohio and it was a high of 39 today and I just put some 10w30 HM conv in my 98 Town Car with 213k on it.

I would put a 8cyl bottle of Restore in it (about $8-9 at Walmart) and add one with each oil change.
I had an 89 Town Car with 302 with 117k on it that took 3 oil changes with restore after switching to Mobil 1 to get back to the same level of oil use it had when I bought it which was about 1/4-1/2 qt every 3000-3300.
The first two synthetic ones used over 2 qts between changes!!

A 99 5.4 was designed and sold to use a 5w-30 standard dino oil.
A 10w-30 is fine if not in extreme cold temps but taking it to full syn negates this.
10w-30 syn is better than 5w-30 conventional.

Hmmm. Had not thought of that.
10w-30 Full Synthetic - something to consider.

I may Simple Green the entire engine to clean it - see what i see.

More research to come.


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As an aside - the thing I could have done differently in the last oil change is not use 5w-20 M1 HM FS.

Due to change in 3k, so will update viscosity then.

Thanks.


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