02 expedition cranks but wont start.

[0254posexp]

I rebuilt my 5.4 sohc motor and now it wont start. It turns over fine. I replaced all the engine harness wires and rang them out and checked resistance. they all are fine. new coil connectors etc. there is 12 volts at all coils and injectors. The relays are good and new diodes. all fuses check out fine. the fuel pump comes on for 1.5 seconds when key turns on. fuel filter is new fuel pump is nearly new. coils are mostly new and ohm out fine. there is power past fuel cutoff switch. I get fuel out of the shrader valve but no pressure on gauge but the gauge I used says engine needs to be running to read??? the cam and crank sensors are new and tested fine. when it is turned over I get 1 flash on my noid light at injector 1 but nothing after. if I turn it off and then back on it will only flash 1 time. no flashes on noid light at coils so something is shutting down the system after 1 pulse on injectors. I replaced the timing chains and everything lined up perfect. I had another mechanic working with me and he double checked my work so we are stumped. If the fuel pressure is bleeding off somewhere will that shut the system down? would bad injectors cause this? I cleaned them with b12 chemtol spray and did the 9 volt battery check and they all worked fine. could I have ruined them with that harsh of a cleaner?

 

[Bedrck47]

Try spraying some starting fluid into the throttle body while someone is starting the engine Just a little bit DON'T OVERSPRAY

It should fire up but won't run for very long

 

[0254posexp]

I tried that already. it stumbled a few times and wanted to start but now starting fluid doesn't do anything. that's why I wondered if a pressure loss would shut down the computer. I bought a new fuel pressure gauge and will test it today.

 

[stamp11127]

Ground strap installed between engine & frame?

 

[docraymund]

Check all connections again. You may have forgotten to connect a wire or some of your connections are loose.

 

[0254posexp]

I have checked and re checked all the connections and all the ground straps have new clean bolts and I cleaned and sanded all the ground connectors. most of the connectors on the harness are new. I replaced them when I made the new wire harness. Ive cleaned all the pins on the connectors and the engine wire harness. Ive been dealing with this for months. I'm riding my motorcycle every day in Phx Az. its been a hot summer. I'm partially disabled and work only part time so I cant just send it to the dealer to get it fixed. I just bought a new fuel pressure gauge and get 35 to 40 PSI on the fuel rail so I know its getting fuel. Does anyone know a test procedure for the PCM and computer?
When it cranks the dash lights go out and no codes come up so its not the pats system or the key.

 

[stamp11127]

It is always better to give all the facts to a problem at the beginning when asking for assistance. That way we don't discover new details as we go along. We are now dealing with non-factory wiring. Most people should leave the pcm alone and not attempt to t/s it.

What was wrong with the original harness?
What is your past experience building wiring harnesses?
Did you follow the factory oem diagrams?
Did you use new pins or splice into the existing harness?
Is the theft light blinking slow or fast?

And I hope you didn't use "ass connectors" (butt connectors).

 

[0254posexp]

I mentioned that in my original post. Ive done lots of electrical before. I spliced the wires and soldered the connections. the old connectors were loose and most clips that hold them on had broken. I was getting lots of electrical codes a while back and found wires shorting so while I had the engine out I replaced the wires. Did them one at a time numbered each one and labled each wire with my lable maker. all the wires rang out and tested with my meter all had .02 ohms so the wiring tested fine. I thought about buying a harness from the salvage yard and see if it will work with that. the hanes manual had different color coding than my harness and I couldn't find the correct wire color codes on the internet. I was careful with the wiring but I guess I could have screwed up on a wire somewhere. I'm going to try and find a salvage harness and double check my wiring job. vI mentioned that the dash lights work fine. no flashing theft light no check engine light. they go out when it cranks. no codes on my code reader. the remote has a new battery and its the original key.
One thing though that's weird is that sometimes my doors will lock when I shut the driver door when it was running rather than waiting until its put in gear. but I just open it with the code when it does that.

 

[Bedrck47]

well the only thing a Haynes or Clymer manual is good for is starting campfires. Get yourself the Ford Factory service manual it is specific to your year and model Includes wiring diagrams connector locations , pin layout color codes and much more.

http://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/factory-service-manuals.25089/

 

[stamp11127]

Since you know what you are doing with electrical you will definitely need the diagrams. The pcm completes the injector circuits on the ground side. Timing input usually will come from cam and crank sensors. PCM will usually have multiple + / - inputs.
If you have access to a scope I would verify the signal at the pcm connector for the cam and crank sensors while cranking. The pulse is ac mv.

Even though you don't have this code I would use it as a guide to check the injector circuit.

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0200

 

[Hugh Jass]

I think you have a fuel pressure problem. When I was diagnosing a nostart condition on my '99 5.4, I had fuel pressure without the engine running. I connected the FPG to the schrader valve and cranked the motor. My problem turned out to be a bad crank sensor.