1998 Expedition quit after 16.5 hours....

[PVExpedition]

HI, Our Expedition quit on the Interstate tonight and we had to be towed home the final 11 miles. We are hoping you have some ideas on what to check to see why it quit. This is only the 2nd time this vehicle has had to be towed, withthe 1st time about 7 months or so ago when the starter gave out. We have a 1998 Expedition with the 4.6L. We just drove it from Albuquerque, NM to Atwater, CA on Friday, June 18, via Las Vegas, NV, drove it around the Atwater - Turlock, CA area for a week, without any problems. We left Atwater this morning at 7:37 am to drive back to Albuquerque. We took it nice & easy, making lots of stops, and had no issues until we were just west of Williams, AZ on I-40 after doing about 70 mph with the cruise on when all of a sudden the cruise dropped off. My wife was driving and had to use the pedal to keep the speed up. We thought it was weird but thought maybe the hill was too long and steep for the cruise to be on and it automatically dropped off. She put the cruise back on once we crested the hill and things were back to normal. We filled up soon thereafter and continued on our trip home with me driving. Things were fine again until just outside of Grants, NM when the cruise did the same thing at 75 mph. However, this time we were on a short very gradual uphill vs a long steep uphill and once the cruise dropped off and I started using the pedal the tach showed about 4,200 RPM and the tranny would not down shift out of passing gear until we crested the gentle hill. Things were fine again until we were 11 miles from home, doing about 65 mph on I-25, flat as a board, no hills. I had noticed a slight drop in rpms for just a split second but they picked up immediately, but then about 2 minutes later it dropped out of cruise and that was it. Nothing. It ran for another mile, if you call it rnning. I had power steering & brakes but then it died and I manhandled it off to the shoulder. I tried starting it to no avail. It cranks beautifully. Battery is only 3 months old. Starter is maybe 7 months old. I switched the horn & fuel pump relay to no avail. I checked the fuel pump fuse and it is fine. I did get it started once but it never went above 500 - 600 rpms and ran very, very rough, and then died. I can hear the fuel pump whir when the key is on & I listen near the rear tire. The oil when I left Atwater was in the middle of the full range and now it is barely showing on the stick so I know the oil is fine, although it did burn about 1/2 a quart over the 16 1/2 hours we drove it today. I read in the owners manual on page 105 there is a fuel pump reset switch that may get need to be reset after a collision but the indicator light for that does not show on the dash. However, perhaps that light is burned out and does not show. Highway 99, 58, I-15, and I-40 do have some incredibly rough patches, very, very rough patches and we are running 10-ply 265 BF Goodrich TA All Terrain radials and the Expedition was shaking all over the place when driving on these patches. Is it possible the shaking has caused an issue there? Well, I would like to reset the fuel pump reset switch but where is that switch located. Would any of you know where it is located? And, would any of you have any ideas what I should check in addition to the reset switch? Thanks for the help.

A clue / thought: We had either just filled up with almost 28 galls of fuel, or it was just before, when we 1st experienced this issue near Williams. Is it possible we stirred up some junk off the bottom of the fuel tank? If so, how would we clear that junk? How would we even confirm this possibility? The 2nd time we had the issue was right after we filled up again, and then it quit 118 miles into the tank. I am wondering if we got dirt in the injectors. Hmmmmm.....

 

[robby001]

Have you changed the fuel filter recently?

 

[rptr00]

are you able to check for engine codes?

 

[Stoned06]

Fuel filter is a possibility if you had just filled up with gas with particulates in it. The fuel inertia switch on your '98 should be behind the kick panel of the passenger foot well, but if you hear your pump running, that will likely not be the case. Sounds as if you may have an electrical issue as the cruise won't stay engaged. Were you gong through any rain? Possibly the ECU/PCM got a little wet from some water. How is your theft light on the dash? Is it blinking at normal intervals, or does it have 3 quick blinks. If you have the 3 blinks, your ignition switch/PATS might be bad.
Unfortunately it could be numerous issues, so you may have to look at a lot of areas to determine the gremlin. Good luck.

 

[rptr00]

I think the fuel filter is a good start. I once had a vehicle with a bad gas gauge and was driving down the Interstate with the cruise engaged amazed at my fuel economy...Ended up running out of gas. Prior to the engine shutting off, I was experiencing some of the same symptoms you have described. I think if the engine is being starved of fuel, it would kill the cruise control so I would replace the fuel filter first since thats an easy fix.

 

[PVExpedition]

Hi, I am unable to get the diagnostic codes.

I an unsure when the fuel filter was changed last and at this present time cannot find the receipts (of course). I just called the quick change oil place we have been using (I have put my focus on other things, and pay folks to work on even simple vehicle items..I know...lazy) and nothing shows on their records since they took over from the original owners, and of course, the original oil change store owners records are not available. So, the fuel filter is a logical place to start.

Thanks for the info on the fuel reset location, and thoughts on it being the culprit.

I am off to Autozone to get the special wrenches for the fuel filter clips, a manual, and a fuel filter.

 

[nvycrmn]

could there be a vacuum leak for the cruise to shut off during incline on hills? fuel filter sounds like a reasonable place to start. either way, you will have new parts on your truck!

 

[PVExpedition]

Ok, back to autozone. I got the fuel filter and a fuel line removal kit, some long plastic things, and ended up breaking one. Found in the instructions Autozone printed for me the proper tool is a really short piece of plastic that releases a "garter spring" that must be inside the end of the fuel line. Looking at the picture of the proper tool I do not see how it will work either but no amount of prying with a wrench or screwdriver is getting that fuel line to budge. Oh well, what is another 30 mile, 40 minute round trip to the auto parts store?

 

[panda24619]

lets start first. the cruise on the early models like mine have had recalls. for fires and shorts. dont use it again until you see if its been changed. go to a ford dealer and check. idk how to check if its new or not but by going threw them. 2nd the fuel switch, passenger kick panel. like said b4. its even labeled on it. u can drain the fuel, but idk how. poke a hole in the tank. haha. but it dose seem like a fuel problem or electrical problem. you almost need a phd in robotics to operate on these trucks now a days.

 

[PVExpedition]

http://napaautoparts.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=SER3290_0006403327
Fuel & AC Line Disconnect Tool, Lock Coupling Tool
Product Line: NAPA Service Tools
Part Number: SER 3290


This is ridiculous. I buy a fuel line disconnect tool even though I was hesitant as this is turning out to be a mess and not a quick fix. I have other more important things to do than work on this vehicle. But, the guy convinced me it was as easy as hot knife thru butter. So, I buy an OEM Tools product that fits 4 sizes of fuel lines. It is like an "X" that pivots in the middle of the "X". Depending on which way you move the two arms you get a different size diameter hole when the arms are put tight together, forming an "X". The line goes between two round sizes and it to slip inside the fuel line on the end of the fuel filter. Yeah, right. I close the two half circles together to use the 3/8" size and it does not slip inside. I try using one half of the tool and that does not work either. How the heck does this tool work? ARRGH. Another 30 minutes and I call the tow truck company again to take it to a shop. All because I cannot get a fuel filter off.

 

[PVExpedition]

Ok, got the right size tool: 5/16"....which actually makes sense: baby 4-8 (4.6L) so it should be a smaller size fuel line. Now, the fuel filter is off vehicle completely and I had my wife crank the engine: no accelrator pedal, just crank, both with & without gas cap on vehicle. No fuel came out of the fuel lines. The tank has gas as I just filled up completely 118 miles ago. Now, I suspect the fuel pump is bad but where is it located? When the key is turned on we hear a buzzing sound which I track towards the engine area but is that a normal sound for a fuell pump? Is that the right location for the sound to come from? I checked the fuel relay last night by switching it with the horn relay and I checked the fuel pump 30 amp fuse and it was fine. Now, if I can find the fuel pump..I hope it is not in the tank.

 

[rptr00]

yes I believe the pump is on top of the tank

 

[PVExpedition]

Tow truck came at 6:10 pm & towed it to our mechanic. The tow truck driver has a key to the yard and will set the bill on the seat for the mechanic to pay, and then bill us. It is nice to have a 20 year relationship with the same mechanic, and for him to have a similar relationship with the tow company. I will elt you all know tomorrow night what the issue turns out to be.

 

[robby001]

Wow that sounds like a bad dream lol

 

[PVExpedition]

I wish it was a bad dream: $425 for the Ford OEM fuel pump, plus 3 hours labor. If my life was not so busy I would do it myself. So, our mechanicn will order the pump this Thursday, July 1, so we get a full 30 days before the bill will be due as he'll carry our balance for that timeframe: nice benefit for being a 20 yr customer. That helps somewhat. And, I'll get a battery for my motorcycle tonight so I can start riding it, reducing the need for car-pooling.