1999 Expy engine knock

[juan214]

Engine Timing Crankshaft Gear

The timing component process is below and came before this step. The Engine Timing Crankshaft Gear did not want to come off by hand. I took my 27mm open wrench and use used to pry it away from the oil pump. Facing the oil pump there is a notch on the top left this where I inserted the wrench. It slid out with no real effort. Oil just seeped in and dried up from the heat. The damaged teeth are not from taking the gear off.

 

[juan214]

Oil Pan Removal on 4X4

At this point the front four oil pan bolts are already off to remove the timing chain cover. Next obviously drain the oil out. We cut 6 inches off a 5 gallon bucket it easy to drain the with getting a single drop on the floor. The bucket is the perfect diameter to catch the oil. Loosen the twelve remaining oil pan bolts, remove all but the two rear corner bolts (don't forget the bolt direct above the differential). Remove the four 15mm bolts from the cross-member holding the rear of the differential. Remove the XXmm nut and 18mm bolt holding the rear of the differential to the cross-members. This is supposed to give you the clearance to remove the pan (NOT). Remove the XXmm nut and 18mm bolt holding the front of the differential. This is supposed to give you the additional clearance to remove the pan by twisting and angling the pan (NOT). I still needed more room to get it out. The only thing left was the last bolt holding the differential up, I did have a jack under for support. I placed a stand under the right side axle as back up. Remove the XXmm nut and 18mm bolt holding the right shaft of the differential. This is supposed to give you the additional clearance to remove the pan by twisting and angling the pan (NOT).

What is Going on????
When the first two bolts came off the weight shifted to the left and the right side shifted up and twisted. Tried jacking the left to shift the right side down did not work. Wedged my breaker bar between the frame and the axle flange and jack the left side again until there was about a two inch gap on the right. Crawled back under pulled the pan angled it to left and twisted it, it came out. Yeah!!!!

 

[juan214]

Timing Components

Loosened the four Tensioner bolts. Removed the left tensioner bolts and pulled it out. The right Tensioner sprung out when the first bolt came out. A lot of tension on this one. Pulled both chains, both Timing Belt Guide Plates, and both Timing Chain Tensioner Arms. The left side were done of course.

 

[juan214]

Crank and Bearing Inspection

Now that the Oil Pan is off we can inspect it real quick. All eight bearings seem to have no movement side to side (seem real tight). There is movement front to back, end play (I assume this is OK). Everything looks clean. Rods all have cylinder markings and they all match. I'll double check again just to make sure.

Any to suggestions as to what to look for here? or did I get it?

Will start on exhaust removal to get Heads off next. Still have not removed the EGR tube of yet.

 

[juan214]

Oil Pan Inspection

Oil Pan very clean, no glitter (metal shavings). Rubbed the oil residue on fingers no grit. Will strain oil for any metal fragment and glitter.

 

[stamp11127]

You are at the point of checking clearances if you chose to. You will need a good torque wrench, torque specs, plastigauge and feeler gauge. If you do not have these do not proceed or you may end up slinging parts out of the motor. Idealy the crank should be checked with the engine out & upside down on an engine stand. That way the weight of the crank is supported by the block instead of the remaining main caps.

 

[juan214]

I have three torque wrenches all from harbor freight. Feeler gauges I have some were, plastigauge I have to order. I know how to use all three.

Am I using the feeler gauges for a measurement between the rods?
Can I do the plastigauge procedure while the engine is still in the bay?
Do I need to use a degree wheel / torque angle gauge?
Where can I go to get the torque specs for this engine?
Where can I go to get the specs for the bearings?

If I choose to skip this step I take chance of rod knock?

Going to start on the exhaust removal, then onto the heads. Still need to inspect the pistons.

 

[stamp11127]

Harbor Freight torque wrenches are junk. That is why I said you need a good one. Years ago mine cost $250.

Feeler gouge is for the rod end side play.

Plastigauge will be at a real auto parts store. You will need the one for .001 - .003 I think it is green in color.

No to the angle nonsense.

PM me your email address and I will send spec info tonight.

Have you rebuilt engines before? If not, I won't assume you know the basics of engine building.

 

[juan214]

Working on a real tight budget. I didn't think the national chains carry the Plastigauge. I EMAILED MY ADDRESS to you tonight.

This will be my first build if we get that far. Usually had others do it

 

[juan214]

Left Exhaust Manifold

Removed the eight manifold exhaust bolts. The two bolts for #8 were half way out I removed those by hand. They were 1/2" bolts with flat washers. I don't think these were factory. Remove the tire to gain access to the bolts. They are tough angles but they'll come out. Use a short socket with a universal and like 15" of extensions all 3/8" drive. The top four and bottom front can be accessed from the wheel well. The rear bottom three from underneath. Need another 12" of extension here. No problems coming out. Inspected the two exhaust gaskets and #8 was leaking (carbon build up).

 

[juan214]

The Cylinder Head

Break the ten 13mm Torque to Yield Cylinder Head Bolts. These are not reusable. I used 13mm deep socket, universal, and my 30" Breaker bar all 1/2" drive. I broke them a 1/4" turn each three times each, then used a 3" extension and 1/2" drive rachet to finish. I inserted a pinch bar in one of the coolant passages and popped the head off, lift and set aside. The rest of the coolant will leak out now. No broken exhaust valve guides. Just the one in the intake.

 

[juan214]

Pistons

From what I can tell all four pistons kissed the intake valves.

Now what to do?
Repair, replace, or rebuild?
Any suggestions?

I guess I can continue the tear down and prep for a full pull on the engine. I'll have to look at my options preferable most cost effective options.

 

[stamp11127]

If they did hit the pistons they would bend the snot out of them. Next up is to pull the other head then inspect the cylinder walls for galling.

How many miles are on the engine?

 

[juan214]

Will be pulling the other head and inspecting it in the next few days. Engine is rebuilt with 30K

 

[juan214]

Right Exhaust Manifold

There are eight 1/2" bolts with flat washers. I don't think these were factory. Remove the tire to gain access to the bolts. They are tough angles but they'll come out. Use a short socket with a universal and like 15" of extensions all 3/8" drive. The top four and bottom front can be accessed from the wheel well. The rear bottom three from underneath. Need another 12" of extension here. These proved to be a bit more difficult than the left so I ended undoing it from the flange I'll be pulling it with the head. One bolt from underneath use 1/2" drive extensions and a breaker bar. The other bolt is accessed from the wheel well. There is an access point at the rear of the well. Use a shallow socket 1/2" drive, I used my extendable 1/2" rachet.

 

[juan214]

Right Cylinder Head

Remove the bolt holding the transmission fill tube and pull to the fender. On the back of the head there are two 13mm stud bolts holding the coolant tube in place. Use a 13mm combo wrench and a another wrench. Break both bolts using the second wrench for leverage. Remove the bottom bolt. Hand lossen the top bolt until it almost hits the firewall. Break the ten 13mm Torque to Yield Cylinder Head Bolts. These are not reusable. I used 13mm deep socket, universal, and my 30" Breaker bar all 1/2" drive. I broke them a 1/4" turn each three times each, then used a 3" extension, universal and ratchet all 1/2" dtive to finish. The fourth head bolt on the exhaust side will not come out due to A/C comment being in the way.
Before removing the head:
Remember that there is a bolt at the back of the head still attached.
A head bolt still in the head.
The exhaust manifold is still attached (extra weight) two studs sticking out.
I inserted a pinch bar in one of the intake passages, pulled the head bolt up, and popped the head off, lift and pull forward the allowed distance and remove the coolant tube bolt. DO NOT bend the coolant tube. The rest of the coolant will leak out now. No broken exhaust valve guides.

 

[juan214]

Head Prep

Remove the temp sensor, right exhaust manifold, and PS reservoir bracket from heads. You could pull the plugs but the machine shop should being do it as part of a the repair or rebuilt.

 

[juan214]

Head Inspection

All valve guides are fine but one. Cams look good to me. Bottoms of all the valves look as if nothing's wrong with them. Not even a sign of them hitting the pistons (no silver on the edges) just carbon build up. At least, all four exhaust valve on the left bank need to be replaced as they hit the pistons the hardest. They must be bent. No sludge, no glitter, metal fairly clean oil about 500 miles since last oil change.

 

[stamp11127]

One way to check if the valves are bent slightly is to invert the head, fill the combustion chamber with gasoline and see if it leaks down. Of course you need to do this outside away from an ignition source. You can substitute the gasoline with another liquid that is thin to be on the safe side.

 

[juan214]

Oil / Oil Pan Inspection

Got a paint strainer placed it inside a funnel. Placed funnel on top of oil reclamation can then poured the oil into it. Oil was fine no glitter or metal was found or seen while pouring. Reinspected the oil pan same thing, nothing. Cleaned the pan inside and out ready for paint. Painted flat black