2000, 5.4L. First Car

[Jonathan Morales]

I'm 19, just got this car as my first. I haven't looked at it too much. It runs, but won't hold a charge, has to be jumped every time. There is a lot of corrosion on the battery ports, so I'll clean that, if the problem continues, I'll replace the battery. If all else fails, I'm going to have to replace the alternator. But I want to lift it, put some bigger tires, and also message with the intake and exhaust. Amy thoughts, information, or ideas are welcome and appreciated. I'd love to hear from someone with some experience.

 

[Machete]

Spend your money on making it reliable first before you poor money in mods v

 

[Trainmaster]

Unless you have a free battery to swap, don't go buy a battery without checking to make sure that's your problem. Diagnosing by replacing parts is an expensive way to find a problem.

 

[ExplorerTom]

Take your battery and get it load tested at a part store. It’s free.

That’s probably your problem. But a bad battery can drag down an alternator if you keep jumping the battery.

 

[Jonathan Morales]

Trainmaster: we'll need a new /spare one eventually, so it doesn't matter that much. However, thank you for the concern.

ExplorerTom: I didn't even think of that. I honestly feel very dumb right now. Thank you for that.

 

[Stepcajun]

Good luck with your new truck,
Hopefully you get it sorted out, they are very reliable if you do general maintenance,
Not too hard to lift either.
Where are you in Oregon?

 

[Jonathan Morales]

Stepcajun: Thanks man! I'm looking forward to the process. I'm in the Rogue Valley. You?

 

[TobyU]

Salvage yards have alts cheap. Yours will be a 3G alt and fits A LOT of fords and lincolns.

They are great trucks except gas mileage hurts a little but not as bad a Dodges. Lol

You should be able to fit a little bigger tires under it or look into cheap spring space lifts or whatever. The F-150 forums will have a bunch on this.

No real mods needed on engine. Not worth the money.

Get you a k&n filter and cut your bottom of airbox out so the air is filtered but not going funneling through the little cone silencer thingy.
It will sound better when you get on it and you will notice a little MPG increase esp around town.
Clean the throttle body and butterfly throttle plate front and back and get mass air flow spray and clean the MAF wires with strong blasts of it.
Put some Full syn 5w30 in it and a motorcraft oil filter.
Change plugs with motorcraft platinum and gap at snug .052.
Change fuel filter.

Should prob change rubber boots of not really good cond.
Keep and eye out for misfires or scan tool it and check for cylinder misfires.
You can get a complete set of COPs (coils) on ebay or marketplace for under 40.00!
I have used many sets of them and they have all lasted for years....like at least 7-8 years until 1 got flaky and misfired on and off.

Better airflow, good oil and filter, clean TB and MAF, good ignition...and it will run great.
They have plenty of power!

Enjoy

 

[Stepcajun]

Great advice Toby.
I'm in Portland

 

[Plati]

Definitely clean up the connections. If a battery gets low a couple times, it degrades and can be toast. If it freezes while low voltage - that can ruin it too. They last 5 years if lucky under the best of conditions. Get a good volt/ohm meter. I like to charge my battery all the way up, it should go to 13+V then after resting go back to 12+V if good. When running the voltage should go to 14+V if alternator is ok. If you turn the lights and fans on while running the voltage should not drop much if at all. You probably need a battery but if you have charging issues you could put a new battery in and damage it right away by running voltage down. New batteries usually need to be charged up after installation.