2000 expedition Rear glass will not latch

[Petesexpy]

I replaced lower latch cable 3 years ago, but not the upper one. Today my wife tried latching the rear glass and it just popped off. Is there a way to latch it from the inside, or do I need a new latch?
UPDATE - I played with the latch and latch cable from the inside and it did latch. So, either the latch is worn out or the cable must be replaced.
UPDATE TO UPDATE - it was the upper (glass) latch cable. The plastic part at the glass latch broke. Had to bend out a tab at the latch to fit in the new cable, but the while job took 1/2 hr. One of the easier ones. Glass and lock are ok now.

 

[JamaicaJoe]

Try manipulating the latch with a screwdriver with glass open. Maybe it misfired and thinks the glass is closed.

 

[Petesexpy]

Try manipulating the latch with a screwdriver with glass open. Maybe it misfired and thinks the glass is closed.

I did after putting glass down and I took the inside panel off. It latched. I think maybe it's the link that's worn out. I replaced the one for the tailgate latch, but not the glass latch.

 

[JamaicaJoe]

I did after putting glass down and I took the inside panel off. It latched. I think maybe it's the link that's worn out. I replaced the one for the tailgate latch, but not the glass latch.

I am curious which direction your gas struts for the glass and rear hatch are positioned. Piston rod up or down? Mine were up last time I changed them and in changing them again I see instructions for the other direction, rod down.

 

[jr1under]

I am curious which direction your gas struts for the glass and rear hatch are positioned. Piston rod up or down? Mine were up last time I changed them and in changing them again I see instructions for the other direction, rod down.

On mine, the cylinders for both are attached to the moving part - the glass and hatch. No definite reason for doing it that way other than that's how they were when I last changed them.

 

[jr1under]

I think maybe it's the link that's worn out.

By 'link', do you mean the thin braided wire cable going between the handle and the lock?

 

[Petesexpy]

I am curious which direction your gas struts for the glass and rear hatch are positioned. Piston rod up or down? Mine were up last time I changed them and in changing them again I see instructions for the other direction, rod down.

I always do rod down, so water does not accumulate in them.

 

[Petesexpy]

By 'link', do you mean the thin braided wire cable going between the handle and the lock?

Yes, exactly. Amazon sells the part that breaks on these cables, but it must be slightly modified to fit.

 

[jr1under]

Yes, exactly. Amazon sells the part that breaks on these cables, but it must be slightly modified to fit.

Ok, you already knew there's an aftermarket fix costing a whole lot less than a new cable.

I used these on my Exp and F150, they fit perfectly, all the prep I had to do was clean off the remnants of the original end. And then make sure the end-piece slot was rotated away from the opening.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HZ05854/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Petesexpy]

Ok, you already knew there's an aftermarket fix costing a whole lot less than a new cable.

I used these on my Exp and F150, they fit perfectly, all the prep I had to do was clean off the remnants of the original end. And then make sure the end-piece slot was rotated away from the opening.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HZ05854/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had to deepen and widen the slot. Otherwise the cable would not move.

 

[jr1under]

I had to deepen and widen the slot. Otherwise the cable would not move.

My bad, thought you meant a mod like with a hacksaw or grinder. I had to widen the slots too.

 

[EngineerMike]

I got replacement cables (window & lift gate) at rockauto.com & they fit. After the hood hit me in the head I got an idea & replaced all gas struts on the rig at one time. Then, same logic, rockauto replacements for emergency brake cables just for p.m. Next up are window regulators cuz the plastic in those (assuming they're the cable type & not geared), can't last forever. Trying to get more good years outa the old girl. She's paid for, so some serious p.m. isn't that big a bite & she's fairly easy to work on excepting those last 2 spark plugs.

 

[Petesexpy]

I got replacement cables (window & lift gate) at rockauto.com & they fit. After the hood hit me in the head I got an idea & replaced all gas struts on the rig at one time. Then, same logic, rockauto replacements for emergency brake cables just for p.m. Next up are window regulators cuz the plastic in those (assuming they're the cable type & not geared), can't last forever. Trying to get more good years outa the old girl. She's paid for, so some serious p.m. isn't that big a bite & she's fairly easy to work on excepting those last 2 spark plugs.

Good luck. The window regulators are a PITA job (ask me how I know). IF you are doing regulators, replace lock actuators also. I have one left to do...

 

[JamaicaJoe]

I am doing the drivers window regulator right now on my 2001. The hardest part was getting the three big plugs in the switch module disconnected. The plastic and metal tend to stick. Be sure to lube with CRC contact cleaner and some dielectric grease , including the plastic plug shells so you can get them out next time. The window regulator is held in by six 1/4 inch rivets and you will need to punch out the steel center of the rivets and then drill with 1/4 inch bit. Then you can remove the entire regulator that has two additional nuts each on top window pads and bottom rail. There is a shortcut method to change only the motor, but requires drilling bigger holes at the motor and fiddling around. Just deal with the six factory rivets, drill them and install new rivets, or bolts. I am doing new rivets. The window regulator in the 2001 has no cables, but the gear motor tends to fail and the rails where the bearings slide, wear out or get sticky.

 

[JamaicaJoe]

Good luck. The window regulators are a PITA job (ask me how I know). IF you are doing regulators, replace lock actuators also. I have one left to do...

My 2001 the rear lock actuators started acting up. I found the 1/4 inch rivet (black head) at the door edge had popped off and the actuator was loose. Drill out the rivet and replace. If you try to remove the actuator from inside the door and pop it off its steel spring saddle you will be cursing yourself. Don't do this. Remove the rivet. Try to fix with new rivets. The actuator probably is just fine.

 

[Petesexpy]

My 2001 the rear lock actuators started acting up. I found the 1/4 inch rivet (black head) at the door edge had popped off and the actuator was loose. Drill out the rivet and replace. If you try to remove the actuator from inside the door and pop it off its steel spring saddle you will be cursing yourself. Don't do this. Remove the rivet. Try to fix with new rivets. The actuator probably is just fine.

Mine was gone, and it took me 3 hours to replace it.