I pulled the fuse for the transfer case in out 2000 when we got it in 2011. Been fine ever since. I did just use 4wd a month or two ago after putting fuse in to pull a large stump/tree around. It worked fine.
2000 Expy XLT Vibration issue
- Thread starter RunningonExpy
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Trainmaster
Old School Member
In 4 Wheel Drive, it will buck going around a tight turn. That's normal.
My sister has a 04 Explorer Sports Trac and basically the same thing was happening. went thru tires, u-joints, differentials, transmission and it was still there. Finally took it to the dealer and it ended up being the transfer case engage motor. it still worked but was going bad and was the cause of the problem. I am not saying that this is your problem but I would think it's worth looking into.
RunningonExpy
Member
Yeah, I'll get that checked out too after the u joints. Did she have a vibration along with the bucking/slipping? A vibration even when it was in 2WD?
1955moose
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The transfer case motor seems to be the go to item on the first and early second gen models. I have a 2000, that I run without the fuse connected, and have no issues. Unfortunately you can't just pull the front CV shafts and run it up the block. Your shop if their worth their salt, should be able to sort out your vibes.
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RunningonExpy
Member
Thanks!
juan214
Full Access Members
So you pulled the fuse for the front differential "AWD" and your problem went away. The fuse goes back in and no problem again, but now the turn bucking started the old issue will return eventually. The issues will even act up when hitting the brakes and it seems to act like the ABS system thinks the truck is in a skid situation. Check out the below whether or not it continues your option.
Cheapest Check:
Before you go spending any more money or go to a shop. Especially if your ABS light is intermediately illuminating. If you got metric Allen keys. Pull your front wheels. Turn the knuckle to get access to the front abs sensor. Use caution and do not break or strip the bolt. Inspect the sensor for wear. The sensor should show no signs of wear at all. Even if the sensor shows the least amount wear not even visible to the naked eye. If it does the hub assembly is worn. Even a front end check with tires on will not be felt or have visible movement. The sensor is not making the right contact to the ring to communicate to the PCM. It is kicking the front differential off and on causing the "vibration". Replace both front hubs more than likely they have never been replaced.
The Fix:
Its an easy fix for any DIYer with the tools. Depending on your finances it's at about $70 for two new hubs with ABS sensors installed. Highly recommend two new AWD ONLY hub seals while your their $25 for both.
Additional Notes:
Check both half shafts for (movement) wear. Inspect all four CV boots for tears or grease leakage. Now would be the time to replace them as to replace either hub you will need to do the same procedures.
Check your Ball joint while here for wear as well.
The rest of the front end if needed can be done anytime as none of the replacement procedures are repeated.
Good Luck
Cheapest Check:
Before you go spending any more money or go to a shop. Especially if your ABS light is intermediately illuminating. If you got metric Allen keys. Pull your front wheels. Turn the knuckle to get access to the front abs sensor. Use caution and do not break or strip the bolt. Inspect the sensor for wear. The sensor should show no signs of wear at all. Even if the sensor shows the least amount wear not even visible to the naked eye. If it does the hub assembly is worn. Even a front end check with tires on will not be felt or have visible movement. The sensor is not making the right contact to the ring to communicate to the PCM. It is kicking the front differential off and on causing the "vibration". Replace both front hubs more than likely they have never been replaced.
The Fix:
Its an easy fix for any DIYer with the tools. Depending on your finances it's at about $70 for two new hubs with ABS sensors installed. Highly recommend two new AWD ONLY hub seals while your their $25 for both.
Additional Notes:
Check both half shafts for (movement) wear. Inspect all four CV boots for tears or grease leakage. Now would be the time to replace them as to replace either hub you will need to do the same procedures.
Check your Ball joint while here for wear as well.
The rest of the front end if needed can be done anytime as none of the replacement procedures are repeated.
Good Luck
Last edited:
Dustin Gebhardt
Full Access Members
My 2001 vibrated like you described until I replaced the u-joints. 3 different sizes required for my year, if I recall. I ended up going to multiple parts stores and Ford to get them all. Several years later, my 4R100 dropped the intermediate sprag. The transmission shop did something to the u-joints, the vibration came back, so I replaced the u-joints again. Each time the vibration went away.
1955moose
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If the tranny shop didn't mark and reinstall shafts in same spot, a vibration will be felt. Happened to me years back on my 82 mustang 5.0. replaced front and rear u joints, but didn't mark the front, where it separates from the yoke. What happened was I got a nasty vibration above 50 mph. Drove that way for about 2 weeks, pulled the shaft, popped out front u joint, rotated it 180 degrees, vibration totally went away. Driveshafts are like tires, they need to be balanced. My guess is whoever owned your SUV, messed with one of the shafts. Well that's what happened to me at least.
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juan214
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