2006 XLT... and got issues

[Willshooter3]

Wife and I have had this truck since about 2008. All was well. We ran it. We changed the oil, filter; air filter and battery when needed. Did the brakes on it. All was well.
Year and a half ago, the truck developed major issues. It was hesitating, it was stumbling, couldn't step on the gas, without it trying to die.
So. Here's the deal. Figured it was starving for fuel as it kept throwing different cylinder codes and such.
I changed the filter-broke the @#$*@*( blue clip in the process and that was an adventure.
Anyway.
It runs a little better, but still hesitates, misses and such.
I can get it up to speed-kick it out of overdrive and run up the RPMs and she will boogie.
But.
The truck has about 200K on the clock.
Now, for years, out of fear of "HOLY @#$() WHAT NOW????!!!!" I have avoided the spark plug issue.
So.
I'm kinda like a newb at this so, don't judge me. How hard is to change these bad boys out?
Is the nightmare all it's made out to be?
Is there something else that could be causing this? Fuel pump? Maybe?

 

[JExpedition07]

Are the plugs original to the truck? Were they changed? If so what year were they changed? Answers to these will help a lot as there are 3 different part #s of plugs since the original style.

 

[Willshooter3]

The plugs are... original. Yeah. I know.
So. Pulled some codes tonight. P0304 and P0453.
No 4 misfire and a fuel pressure issue.

 

[JExpedition07]

Oh boy, with 200k on the original ones that’s going to be about as difficult as it gets. Watch FordTechMakuloco series on 4.6/5.4 3V plug removal. You are going to need to buy the lisle removal tool as you will likely break some. If they had been changed in the last few years to the SP-515s you wouldn’t have to worry about breakage.

The night before you change them break plugs loose 1/4 turn and spray carb cleaner in each plug well liberally. Let it soak over night to break up carbon. In the morning retighten the 1/4 turn and then remove them fast with Dewalt or equivalent impact driver.

The new replacement plug number is SP-546, they have more crimps and a different snout so they don’t break.

 

[Willshooter3]

Lovely thought. Wondering if I am better off taking it in to have them done?

 

[TomB985]

Plugs are the first step, but it sounds like this concern happened suddenly. Can you list the codes that were showing? There might be something else going on.

 

[Willshooter3]

304 and 453. No. 4 misfire and a fuel pressure issue- evap system?

 

[imported_cheapdad00]

You should have plugs replaced and probably coils too. Replaced mine with SP507s in 2010 when vehicle had 95k. 3 broke during extraction, so definitely got use of Lisle tool. Just replaced them again last year at 190k (with SP546s), only 1 broke this time (it was in the easiest location to get out, but I didn't expect it to break).

 

[JExpedition07]

SP-507 is the original design of the plug, SP-515 fixed the breakage but had misfire issues occasionally when new. SP-546 is the latest and best edition.

 

[TomB985]

304 and 453. No. 4 misfire and a fuel pressure issue- evap system?

The details are important, which fuel pressure code? That would certainly cause your problem, and are likely unrelated to your evap system.

 

[Willshooter3]

The P0453 code.

 

[Willshooter3]

The details are important, which fuel pressure code? That would certainly cause your problem, and are likely unrelated to your evap system.

The P0453 code comes back to an EVAP system- something about a built in leak detection rig?

 

[Trainmaster]

Some of the 2008's have normal spark plugs that come out with no problem. You have to look for the engine build date on the left (driver side) valve cover. If it was built after 10/9/07, it does not have the problematic plugs and they'll come right out with no trouble.

Just change the plugs and the rubber coil boots. You know it needs them. Then see how it runs.

 

[Willshooter3]

Some of the 2008's have normal spark plugs that come out with no problem. You have to look for the engine build date on the left (driver side) valve cover. If it was built after 10/9/07, it does not have the problematic plugs and they'll come right out with no trouble.

Just change the plugs and the rubber coil boots. You know it needs them. Then see how it runs.

Now that's the best news I've heard all day.

 

[Willshooter3]

After a great deal of debate, the Expy went to the shop late yesterday.
I'm actually relieved.

 

[Adieu]

Now that's the best news I've heard all day.

...i thought you had an '06 though?

 

[Willshooter3]

...i thought you had an '06 though?

Read this thread on my phone at first, without my glasses.
If you see my follow up post- She went to the shop- that's why. I have a 2006-which means I have the.... yeah... those @#$#()@$ plugs.
So. My buddy the master **** bang mechanic who handles my fleet repair work has my rig sitting in his shop.

 

[Willshooter3]

Back from the shop. Bad wiring harness on the plugs and the injector.. bad gas cap (wth?) and we’re on the road. Now. About these demonic plugs...

 

[TomB985]

Back from the shop. Bad wiring harness on the plugs and the injector.. bad gas cap (wth?) and we’re on the road. Now. About these demonic plugs...

Glad to hear you got it running!

I would get those plugs taken care of sooner rather than later. There certainly doing no favors for your catalytic converters.

 

[MrsHarper]

Are these plugs the same on the 2004? Is it all 2nd gen? I'm needing to change mine.