2011 Expedition Blend Door Actuator location

[whip]

I hear a loud clicking sound when adjusting the ac temperature. I’ve taken off the trim around the center dash and the radio. I see one actuator which is right behind the stereo but the sound does not seem to be coming from that one. I can put my hand on the actuator and I don’t ‘feel’ it thumping. It seems to be coming more to the drivers side...more toward the steering wheel. Is there another actuator back there or is there only one?


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[ManUpOrShutUp]

There is another temperature blend door actuator on the driver side and it's a nightmare.

Removal and Installation

1. Remove the heater core and evaporator core housing. For additional information, refer to Heater Core And Evaporator Core Housing in this section.

1. Remove the 4 floor duct screws.

1. Remove the floor duct.

1. Disconnect the LH temperature blend door actuator electrical connector.

1. Remove the 2 LH temperature blend door actuator screws.

1. Remove the LH temperature blend door actuator.

1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

1. NOTE: Because the battery has been disconnected as part of the removal procedure, the HVAC module will initialize and calibrate the actuators when the ignition switch is switched to the ON position. The purpose of the module actuator position calibration is to allow the HVAC module to reinitialize and calibrate the actuator stop points. Calibration of the actuators will take approximately 30 seconds.
   
   Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and wait 30 seconds before verifying correct temperature blend door actuator operation.
   

Below is the "shortcut."

 

[whip]

The link provided above is invalid


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[Aggiesrok]

I replaced my drivers side on my 2012 limited. I removed the panel below the steering wheel and the pedal assembly from the firewall. I was able to access the blend door actuator fairly easily. Depending on which AC system you have it may be in a different location.


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[ManUpOrShutUp]

The link provided above is invalid


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Link is valid. Maybe it doesn't work in Tapatalk?

I replaced my drivers side on my 2012 limited. I removed the panel below the steering wheel and the pedal assembly from the firewall. I was able to access the blend door actuator fairly easily. Depending on which AC system you have it may be in a different location.


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It sounds like you're referring to the Defrost/Panel/Floor Door mode door actuator ?? The LH temperature blend door actuator can't be removed as you described. It would literally be impossible.

 

[whip]

I watched that video yesterday. That actuator is next to the floorboard. The sound is coming from what seems like between the steering wheel and the radio


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[whip]

Link is valid. Maybe it doesn't work in Tapatalk?



It sounds like you're referring to the Defrost/Panel/Floor Door mode door actuator ?? The LH temperature blend door actuator can't be removed as you described. It would literally be impossible.

I’ve tried the link on the web. It’s still invalid


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[ManUpOrShutUp]

I watched that video yesterday. That actuator is next to the floorboard. The sound is coming from what seems like between the steering wheel and the radio


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The only one in that location is the one you already mentioned in your first post.

 

[whip]

Ok good to know. So if I understand correctly, there are 2. On behind the radio and one near the floorboard correct?


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[ManUpOrShutUp]

Ok good to know. So if I understand correctly, there are 2. On behind the radio and one near the floorboard correct?


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(1) defrost/panel/floor mode door actuator: can be accessed from underneath the LH side of the instrument panel.
(2) Mode Door Actuator — Air Inlet Door: RH lower instrument panel
(3) Temperature Blend Door Actuator — LH: this is the nightmare one discussed in the video
(4) Temperature Blend Door Actuator — RH: behind the stereo
(5) Auxiliary Mode Door Actuator: RH rear quarter trim panel
(6) Auxiliary Temperature Blend Door Actuator: RH rear quarter trim panel

 

[Arcticfrost]

I changed out my passenger blend door actuator on my ‘09. It wasn’t clicking but there was cold air on the passenger when the heat was on. New actuator fixed it.
The only clicking I get is with dash fan when changing the speed up or down but changing the temp doesn’t click.


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[whip]

That list of actuators helps a ton.

Ok I’ve figured out that it’s the panel/defrost/floor one that is on the driver side under the steering wheel. I ordered a new one and took out the old one. I can see that the new one has an arrow pointing toward the open part of the white gear. On the old one however the gear is turned a little so the arrow is not pointing toward the gap in the gear.

Isn’t there a way to recalibrate the actuators so the new one will fit back in the system? Don’t I have to pull a fuse or something?

Again this is a 2011 expedition

Thanks again


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[ManUpOrShutUp]

That list of actuators helps a ton.

Ok I’ve figured out that it’s the panel/defrost/floor one that is on the driver side under the steering wheel. I ordered a new one and took out the old one. I can see that the new one has an arrow pointing toward the open part of the white gear. On the old one however the gear is turned a little so the arrow is not pointing toward the gap in the gear.

Isn’t there a way to recalibrate the actuators so the new one will fit back in the system? Don’t I have to pull a fuse or something?

Again this is a 2011 expedition

Thanks again


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Here you go:

Removal and Installation

NOTE: The defrost/panel/floor mode door actuator can be accessed from underneath the LH side of the instrument panel.

1. Disconnect the defrost/panel/floor door mode door actuator electrical connector.

1. Remove the 2 defrost/panel/floor door mode door actuator screws.

1. Remove the defrost/panel/floor door mode door actuator.

1. NOTICE: The ignition key must be off when replacing the actuator. Energizing the actuator before installation will cause the part to become positioned incorrectly and proper orientation will be lost. Incorrect actuator operation will result.
   
   To install, reverse the removal procedure.

1. NOTE: The purpose of the module actuator position calibration is to allow the HVAC module to reinitialize and calibrate the actuator stop points. To carry out calibration, carry out the following steps.[
   
   Remove Smart Junction Box (SJB) fuse 15 for at least one minute.

1. NOTE: When the ignition switch is switched to the ON position, the HVAC module will initialize and calibrate the actuators. Calibration of the actuators will take approximately 30 seconds.
   
   Reinstall SJB fuse 15. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and wait 30 seconds before verifying correct mode door actuator operation.

 

[whip]

Ok I followed the instructions to reset the actuators. I thought this would position the female part of the gear to the baseline starting position to match up with the new actuator (which has the arrow pointing toward the keyed part of the male gear). It’s not matched up though...
The new actuator has the arrow pointing toward the keyed male gear at about the 5-o’clock position.
The female keyed part of the head is about the 4-o’clock position.
How is this suppose to work? Do I need to click the ac mode buttons to face/feet/defrost mode or something?


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[Arcticfrost]

When I replaced my passenger blend door actuator there was an arrow on the actuator I bought so I lined up the blend door to match when installing it and it worked fine.


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[whip]

When I replaced my passenger blend door actuator there was an arrow on the actuator I bought so I lined up the blend door to match when installing it and it worked fine.


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I take it you lined up the blend door by pressing the AC buttons on the dash? I.e. trial and error of each mode?


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[Arcticfrost]

I take it you lined up the blend door by pressing the AC buttons on the dash? I.e. trial and error of each mode?


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I had the ignition off when replacing but both sides were set to the same temp at 70°. I didn’t mess with any modes, just swapped it, then checked that it worked by cranking one side to 80° (hot) and the other to 65° (cold) and vise versa.
If you can’t tell where to line it up, find the middle of the two extremes, center it, and installing that way should work.


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[whip]

I had the ignition off when replacing but both sides were set to the same temp at 70°. I didn’t mess with any modes, just swapped it, then checked that it worked by cranking one side to 80° (hot) and the other to 65° (cold) and vise versa.
If you can’t tell where to line it up, find the middle of the two extremes, center it, and installing that way should work.


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I’m going to take a step back and explain what’s going on again. Something is just not right.

We have the actuator, which we consider bad, and have purchased a new one.
The actuator has a male gear sticking out, has an electrical plug that plugs into the car, so the car can control the rotation/position of the male gear when the AC buttons are pressed on the dash. When the buttons are pressed, the male gear rotates, and will turn the mated female gear, which in turn opens and closes doors.
We also know that the male and female gears are keyed so they only fit together one way.
We also know that the new actuator comes with the male gear pre-rotated in a default baseline position and even has a printed arrow indicating this position and the missing tooth/key identified by the arrow.

So of all of the above is true, the actuator has to be mated to the female gear and plugged into the car for the female gear to rotate.

I also noticed that the male gear cannot be freely rotated by hand.
I also noticed that the female gear, which is incredibly hard to get to or even see it’s position without getting a phone camera up under the dash to see it’s position.

So I’ll reiterate the question I stated before. How am I suppose to align the male and/or female gears to mate?
If the male gear is already in the default 5-o’clock position and I cannot move it by hand, and the female gear is in some other position, and I cannot use the ac controls to control its position .....because it needs the actuator plugged in to turn it....which I can’t do....how am I suppose to get them to line up?

Am I suppose to somehow turn the male gear by hand ?
Does the female gear actually turn when the ac controls are pressed? If so what’s the point of the actuator - that’s it’s job.
Am I suppose to turn the female gear by hand somehow ....

Hope this all makes sense


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[Arcticfrost]

I used a Swiss Army knife with the flathead to turn the female connection to line up to the new actuator. You explained it well! It is hard to get in there and I scraped up my hands changing mine! A light helps a lot and the back screw was tricky to tighten down. I used a extendable magnet to hold it while I got it started.


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[Hamfisted]

How am I suppose to align the male and/or female gears to mate?
If the male gear is already in the default 5-o’clock position and I cannot move it by hand, and the female gear is in some other position, and I cannot use the ac controls to control its position .....because it needs the actuator plugged in to turn it....which I can’t do....how am I suppose to get them to line up?

Am I suppose to somehow turn the male gear by hand ?
Does the female gear actually turn when the ac controls are pressed? If so what’s the point of the actuator - that’s it’s job.
Am I suppose to turn the female gear by hand somehow ....

Hope this all makes sense

Set the actuator up there in position but not fastened down, plugged in, and with the key in the RUN position you can move the temperature control up or down and the actuator will turn and eventually drop into the female side.