4th Gen Wiring Diagram?

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DenSanAZ

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Check out an accessory for the Valentine One radar detector called the “brown our booster” or “Bob” as they call it. I had to buy one so my detector would not reboot at every stop sign and traffic light. Not sure if there are other more general versions for entertainment systems out there but at least you know a solution is possible. There are videos on YouTube on how to make your own if you’re into electronics, although the cost was the same as the Bob. Can’t link to it but just go to Valentine’s site and Shop and you can locate it.


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Is your detector wired into the rear view mirror? I'm just about to buy the MirrorTap for my Escort, tired of the lighter cord dangling across my Sync display - just wondering if the MirrorTap will cause the detector to power cycle.
 

BFD350

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Is your detector wired into the rear view mirror? I'm just about to buy the MirrorTap for my Escort, tired of the lighter cord dangling across my Sync display - just wondering if the MirrorTap will cause the detector to power cycle.

No, I ran the wire from the left side of the review mirror around the mirror and sensor housing to the passenger side pillar and around the pillar to the rubber seal and under it (on the left side of the seal) and down to the fuse compartment.






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Dice Roll

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No, I ran the wire from the left side of the review mirror around the mirror and sensor housing to the passenger side pillar and around the pillar to the rubber seal and under it (on the left side of the seal) and down to the fuse compartment.

How did you connect to keyed 12 volts once there?





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aggiegrad05

aggiegrad05

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I would think that beyond a capacitor you would need a resistor and a diode prior to it. The diode would keep the capacitor voltage from escaping back to the starter motor. The resistor would reduce the inrush current when power is applied. The resistor and diode would take the full current all the time.

Winner winner!!

They tried a number of things (the trigger, running power directly to the battery, etc) none of which worked. In the end they kept the power running directly to the battery and added a capacitor, resistor, and diode. Works like a champ. Thank you.

And the shop was great, even though they had to do an extra 6 hours of work, they didn’t charge me for the labor or the additional parts. Everything was covered by my initial $300 quoted install price. It was annoying but I’m pleased with the result.

I’m not one for endorsements, but....Bonnie & Clydes Car Audio in Dallas if anyone in my area is looking for a shop that will work through a problem and make it right.
 
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