5.4L Triton timing set, replace oil pump?

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JExpedition07

JExpedition07

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I can view it with my camera but can’t reach the sucker. I think I’ll try removing the fuel rail after work and maybe that will allow my hand in there.5669A6BD-CE60-4896-B034-CA0C8E7B4A47.jpeg
 
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JExpedition07

JExpedition07

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Got it by removing fuel rail, you have to pull up on it like crazy. Just drove it around for a while and all is back to normal besides the power steering making noises when I turn the steering wheel. Level is good not sure why it won’t clear but the steering is smooth at least.
 
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JExpedition07

JExpedition07

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Power steering cleared now. That puts an end to this painful chapter of Expedition ownership, hopefully the next chapter of this Expedition is less knuckle busting. I’d like to apologize to the forum for all the whining and unneeded responses, reading through this thread is very cringy. I would like it to be deleted and removed from the site if it could be so people don’t have to stumble upon this waste of a thread in the future.....it could potentially cost owners a lot of wasted time reading nonsense. Anyway no more startup rattle and runs better than ever. Job done not so gracefully but done.
 
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JExpedition07

JExpedition07

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So if a mod can......make this thread sink like the titanic. It really should go away, it’s common to lock or delete threads with non-Expedition related content or a lot of negativity. This thread fits the bill for deletion imo. Of course I can’t tell staff what to do but it would be appreciated.
 

Plati

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So if a mod can......make this thread sink like the titanic. It really should go away, it’s common to lock or delete threads with non-Expedition related content or a lot of negativity. This thread fits the bill for deletion imo. Of course I can’t tell staff what to do but it would be appreciated.
It's real life. It's a classic. Some good info in here. Needs to stay!!
Glad it ended well, but (not to be negative) .. some time is needed to declare success.

If you really wanted , you could go back and edit out some parts. Just an idea.

I think I called it a few posts back. You don't give up, you fight the beast until it's defeated!!
 
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JExpedition07

JExpedition07

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Ha. It is real life, this was just the unedited version. Most threads and videos edit out the ugly of this job to protect potential viewers from the smog lol. Normally I’d have my dad or a friend helping to vent with....but during quarantine you guys were all I had to vent to as I went this alone. Maybe I’ll go back and do the same - edit the ugly out and make it look like a more rosy experience. It seems it is safe to say the startup rattle is gone, it can sit for multiple hours now and starts with no ruckus.
 
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Shantheman73

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Ha. It is real life, this was just the unedited version. Most threads and videos edit out the ugly of this job to protect potential viewers from the smog lol. Normally I’d have my dad or a friend helping to vent with....but during quarantine you guys were all I had to vent to as I went this alone. Maybe I’ll go back and do the same - edit the ugly out and make it look like a more rosy experience. It seems it is safe to say the startup rattle is gone, it can sit for multiple hours now and starts with no ruckus.

Great job man. So no Chevy Suburban on the horizon? [emoji12] That was the only post that made me cringe! Haha


2007 Ford Expedition Limited
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Kudos for sticking with it through all the frustration and finally prevailing.Good job! Now you can enjoy the finished product you’ve accomplished with your own hands.
 
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JExpedition07

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Well I did all true blue parts so I’ve given Ford my dues for the month, even my oil pump is Ford OE and I ignored all the Melling hype lol. I’m always going to be a Ford guy but these engine bays are cramped.....just nice to have the Expy back under its own power once again.
 

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Ok guys so I’m in for a new drivers side head. DO NOT try putting the cams in with rockers in place. I can hear it shredding the cam towers under the drivers side valve cover once running. I’m sure the head is full of metal shavings. I’m too pissed off/upset to get into it today....just going to walk away for now. All rockers were properly in place and cams torqued to specs once tightened then I loosened and did each cap separately with the torque wrench so I could get proper torque.

Now I may sell the truck as a fixer upper and go put a down payment on a Suburban or something. Not sure I want this headache with the engine full of metal shavings. This engine has turned out to be a royal piece of dog sh*t. Walking away from Ford pretty much for good after this.....yes I made mistakes but they made service a living Hell. Something I refuse to own until I can purchase brand new and let the dealer do my maintenance. Going to take a break from this site and collect my thoughts, I may not be back.....at this point I think I’m dumping this truck off for an 07-10ish Suburban. Going to scour the lots today.

Just read this one. Funny. But I still don’t understand why it’s Fords fault if you didn’t do this properly.

I do agree though these big V8 OHC, VVT, 3v 5.4’s are notorious for this originally suspected failure.

So are the 3.5 EB’s so I totally sympathize w your suburban comment.

I’m looking for another truck/SUV and don’t want 3v 5.4 nor EB but friends are talking into the 3.5. I know I’ll lose sleep worrying about the dreaded Diesel engine noise at start up.
 
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JExpedition07

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Just read this one. Funny. But I still don’t understand why it’s Fords fault if you didn’t do this properly.

I do agree though these big V8 OHC, VVT, 3v 5.4’s are notorious for this originally suspected failure.

So are the 3.5 EB’s so I totally sympathize w your suburban comment.

I’m looking for another truck/SUV and don’t want 3v 5.4 nor EB but friends are talking into the 3.5. I know I’ll lose sleep worrying about the dreaded Diesel engine noise at start up.

Nothing failed it was just a loud air locked power steering pump. Don’t buy an EcoBoost with the startup rattle, you’ll be in for thousands as the parts aren’t cheap and unlike the 5.4L it’s not the tensioners but actual chain stretch since they only used one.
 
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JExpedition07

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So now that it’s behind me I’m going to add what I learned here and useful info for people who do this in the future. I had to do the job twice because my screw ups

Tools you need:
-Sockets— 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, and 18mm will get you through this job
-You want an 8mm ratcheting box wrench for the oil pump pickup
-1/2” breaker bar
-gasket maker
-channel locks and needle nose pliers

These things will get you through this job. I had a very difficult time with the OTC spring compressor tool and fought it a lot on the rockers. I cheated and tediously re-timed the engine after my chain came loose the first time (tensioner arms on incorrect banks first time) then very SLOWLY tightened the cams down with rockers in place evenly on each cap and later torqued one cap at a time by tightening the surrounding caps and loosening the one to be torqued. This takes a while but it avoided warpage (I think lol). You should not follow me here you will waste time, follow the advice of others and place all rockers that are “relaxed” in first then just use the tool for the compressed ones off base circle later when you can spin engine to get it there. On that bottom oil pump bolt pull the PS line off the front frame rail and get your head in there. Putting that bolt back in was tough, arguably the most difficult part of the job. If you have sausage fingers good luck idk what to offer. When you pull the valve covers my recommendation is to pull the battery box. The drivers side is was harder imo but passenger you just have to fight it past the coolant lines. I called my dad in for help on pass valve cover removal so that may be why it seemed easier having 4 hands on it. Put cardboard in front of the radiator. At the end don’t get discouraged like me if you hear grinding, my PS pump was screaming and totally had me fooled into thinking I had major trouble. If you have grinding noise turn the wheel and see if that effects it. I could not find a bleed procedure so I pulled the valve and turned it lock to lock several times which fixed the grinding.

Finally oil pump installation was tedious take your time and line it up good on the crankshaft. Make sure it seats flush against the engine block and it will be ok. To pull the Harmonic balancer back on I hit it with a lead hammer a bit then let the crank bolt tighten it in against the cover. My biggest piece of advice is TAKE a BEFORE picture when you open up the engine. Your tensioner arms are not marked which bank but it is important. My before picture quickly revealed my screw up when I pulled it back apart.
 
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