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6R75 Replacement

Discussion in '3rd Gen - 2007 - 2017' started by JExpedition07, Jul 10, 2019.

  1. chuck s

    chuck s Full Access Members

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    Frustrating albeit interesting saga! :) Were you successful with the state inspection when it was working a couple of months ago? (Just curious.)

    -- Chuck
     
  2. JExpedition07

    JExpedition07 Marinized Member Supporting Member

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    Inspection due in May I believe. It’s really been a miserable job but doable for sure, nothing was designed for service on these trucks.
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2020
  3. JExpedition07

    JExpedition07 Marinized Member Supporting Member

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    Still waiting to put it back together. Converter in the trans. I blew out my shoulder after it was already effed up when working out and haven’t been able to do much with my right arm being useless in pain lol. It’s starting to get better will likely get back at it tomorrow or the following today.
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2020
  4. JExpedition07

    JExpedition07 Marinized Member Supporting Member

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    Shoulder has only gotten worse, a lot of pain and I can’t move my arm much today....feels very weak. Trans is on hold a few more days LOL. Went to help my dad put up a big evaporator for a big customer of his this morning and after lifting that my shoulder called it quits and gave out.....seems like a torn rotator cuff. Looks like I’ll be driving the spare F-250 a bit longer.

    Not going to any doctor or healthcare facility with this corona virus going around. They aren’t doing any non emergency stuff anyway. Anyway enough of my whining!!!! It’ll get there as soon as I can get back under it and I’ll include fastener sizes and tips once I go back at it and recall what is what.
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2020
  5. 07navi

    07navi Full Access Members

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    Maybe you can get a friend to help you, I would if I lived there. They won't let me in my doctors office here either, California is pretty much shut down all over.
     
  6. JExpedition07

    JExpedition07 Marinized Member Supporting Member

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    Did a little as I could today. Very close to the finish line. Almost there!!! So your starter is 3 (13mm) bolts. You will need a 3/8” drive socket and ratchet, you will need two swivels as well as two extensions. Go through the manifold and frame rail to get the top bolt off. Do this first off unlike me lol. For the middle starter bolt you need to go up in front of your control arm and stick an extension back to get on it. I tackled the driveshafts next, remove both front and rear. Front is 2 CV joints on both ends so remove bolts in both ends

    Next I worked on the exhaust, you need to take the mid-pipe out which includes both catalytic converters. Disconnect all 4 oxygen sensors. No need to take them out, just follow the wires and disconnect the harness. BE SURE TO UNCLIP ALL WIRE RETAINER OFF TRANS. Remove the manifold flange bolts and then move back and cut the pipe to muffler bolts if rusty like mine. I sliced the forks that go into the mounts to remove easier and welded them back together for the install.

    Once the exhaust system is dropped out support the transmission with your jack. The crossmember has 4 18 MM nuts and 15 mm bolts so you’ll need both sizes. A 13 MM deep well socket is what gets the trans mount nuts. Now pry the ends and the cross member will drop out.

    Now get all bell housing bolts (13mm) but first drop the heat shield on the passenger side (easy). The top two are WAY up in there, get a light and prepare to swear ALOT lol. I had to lower the rear of trans to get the top ones to drop out afterward.

    Lastly I took the inspection cover off the TC area by oil pan. There are 4 converter to flex plate bolts. You need to rotate the engine via the crank and a breaker bar to get all 4 of them, you can get one at a time. Once those are out the trans is free. Walk it off the dowels and she comes down. The old converter hung in there and took a bit of work to remove.

    Install new converter, rotate it and make sure you push it in and seat it all the way in there. (Measure the old one and make sure it matches).....now you go in reverse.....
     
  7. JExpedition07

    JExpedition07 Marinized Member Supporting Member

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    Extra Notes***

    The transmission cooler lines are held in by a 13 mm, loosen and they work off

    The shift cable has a heat shield, pull that off and reveal the plastic clip. You stick a flat blade in the slot and slide it up, that will remove your cable. Also two 10 mm bolts on that cable on the yellow bracket above the swivel point......once you get that out it’s free.

    Also don’t forget the main trans connector lol. Back right of the housing.

    There really was no reason to take off the Transfer case in this truck, I ended up putting the bolts back in and never separated it from the transmission completely. Just supported both with two separate jacks. The reason I didn’t remove is the transfer case actually is what had the mount on it not the trans.....so in my case they came as a package deal or it was more difficult.
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2020 at 11:26 PM
  8. 07navi

    07navi Full Access Members

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    I worked in a lot of transmission shops when I was a kid and the average time to drop one out after it was jacked up was 30 to 45 minutes or you would probably get fired but that shows you how cramped they have become. My record time for dropping a Chevy Powerglide was 18 minutes.
     
  9. JExpedition07

    JExpedition07 Marinized Member Supporting Member

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    I’d imagine Ford book rate for this job is 5-6 hours for a dealer tech imo. It’s pretty involved and super duper cramped. To keep my sanity I’ve went Sssllloooowwww.
     
  10. 07navi

    07navi Full Access Members

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    At least now you have more experience with it. We are lucky we can do most things ourselves.
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2020

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