'99 passed down from the mom-in-law.

[101Expedition]

Hey everybody!
Picked up my new to me 1999 Expedition (aka, Blueferd) a couple weeks ago from the bay area.
Sat in my mother-in-laws driveway for several years, only being used once a month at the most.
Purchased new in '99, one owner, 130k on the clock. She had it serviced by the calendar and not by the mile, at the dealership. Its got the big 5.4 with AWD. Third row seating, which is now sitting in the attic in the shop. Threw a free roof rack on. New tires on the front, and took off for 5 days fishing up at Hat Creek. Went exploring in the mountains above the Pit river. Did great. Needs a little more power in the hills while loaded down. Any suggestions for some simple power adders??

 

[1955moose]

You've got the higher hp motor already. 260 vs 235-240. 20 hp isn't a lot but theirs added torque also. Check all the obvious, tune up, too tight brakes, including e brake, other than that run computer codes to be sure everything is Kosher with the electrics/sensors. You stated you have the bigger 5.4 liter vs 4.6 litre. These vehicles are heavy 5,800 to 6,000 depending on model. Their fast for a fat girl dancing, just don't expect her to boogie down! Welcome to the forum!

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[ExplorerTom]

Look into the Gotts Mod. It's not a miracle, but might free up a little. Check the air filter while you're in there.

If it were me, I'd go through it: fuel filter, spark plugs, all new fluids, brakes. Turn tight circles and see if the A4WD is constantly engaged.

 

[101Expedition]

Sounds good. Thank you. Going to do fuel filter soon for sure. Air cleaner is new. System seems restrictive tho. Gotts Mod?

 

[101Expedition]

I looked it up. Pretty easy. Thanks again.
Tires do squeal a bit in tight turns. I would assume its working. This thing went in for regular services every other month, needed or not. She only drove it maybe once a month for the last ten or so years.

 

[ExplorerTom]

Check your throttle cable stretch. Take off the black intake tube to expose the throttle body. Have an assistant or use something to push the gas pedal down all the way. See if your throttle plate is fully open.

Mine wasn't. I added some zip ties to the cable at the top of the gas pedal to take up the slack.

 

[1955moose]

Original Ford cable is still available from dealer. It's about $125.00. Checked into it as mine is starting to get stretched too. Tom where exactly did you put the ties on the inside pedal?

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[ExplorerTom]

If you look at the top side of the pedal assy (under the dash), you’ll see where the cable attaches. I just pulled the slack out, used some zip ties in the space and called it good. When you look, it’ll be obvious. There may be a proper adjustment somewhere (maybe on the pedal assy).

 

[1955moose]

OK thanks Tom.

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[101Expedition]

Good tip, i'll check that. Thank you.
Also, saw something about the brown wire mod. What is the advantage of shutting off the AWD.
If i did I would just install a second switch in line and have AWD be an option. (I guess that's more of a question)

 

[ExplorerTom]

The A4WD seems to fail in the "always engaged" position. If you turn tight as you can on pavement and the driveline seems to bind up, then it is engaged. If you pull fuse 104 in the underhood fuse box and the binding goes away, then the Brown Wire Mod is an easy solution to the problem. It allows you to disable the a4wd function and drive around in RWD.

I too installed a switch to keep the a4wd but in all actuality, I never use it. It's RWD or in 4wd. If the roads are slippery enough to need extra traction, I'll engage the 4wd and leave it there. Or I'll keep it in RWD and have some fun.

 

[101Expedition]

So just pulling the fuse is not the answer, you actually have to cut the wire??
Also, what engine oil do you use?

 

[ExplorerTom]

If you pull the fuse, it does the same thing. Sorta. But if you pull the fuse, you've got RWD 100% of the time.

If you cut the wire, you still have the 4wd selections via the switch.

 

[404NltFound]

As for power, as 55moose stated, these are fat girls. Don't get me wrong, BBWs are fun, but can't expect them to outrun Usain Bolt. However...
Procharger. But, if you don't want to drop $5.5K on the truck, I'll tell you what I'm doing to start. My first truck was an extended cab, 02 Fx4. Still not a light vehicle by any stretch of the imagination. I put Flowmaster 44s in true dual on it, a K&N CAI, and a superchips tuner. The truck for its size and weight, was unnaturally quick. No Lightning obviously, but in high school racing the only trucks that were faster were single cab, 2wd trucks with built motors while mine was relatively stock.

So for now, my expedition in getting an aFe CAI with the dry filter, it has a Magnaflow exhaust, and I'll be getting a tuner from 5 Star Tuning with custom tunes. Some people will argue the effectiveness of a CAI but I put one on my 05 4 Runner and it really did seem to make it run better.

I'd change the spark plus too. I used to run iridium in my F150 but I was running 91 octane because "racecar". But with age and miles, horsepower does dip so anything you can do to help the motor breathe and that the fluids are fresh will help a lot. Mine is waiting to be picked up from the shop today as I just had all the fluids replaced. In your case i'd focus on oil, trans fluid, and coolant. Just my opinion.

Also, I don't know what gears you are running, and it's obviously not cheap, but going to 3:73s or 4:10s would make it feel more powerful, especially on the hills.

 

[101Expedition]

Okay... Rear end shudder was kinda noticeable at first. Now that i have about 4,000 smile miles on her, mostly to the Sierras and Nevada mountains (ish). She's been loaded down with all kinds of gear.
I did the brown wire mod and noticed an increase in mpg's and power i guess.
After several moderate technical trails over the past couple months, i'm noticing the rear end shudder is getting worse off the line while turning. Found out it's possibly the clutch pack for the limited slip. Wearing out or sticking together.
There are a lot of threads on here and i'm sure it's been covered but after searching for a bit with no luck, i'm just going to ask..
Any tips or tricks? Or just replace the pack?
Also, where does everybody get their parts from? Favorite online store?

 

[1955moose]

Why not try replacing the fluid with the Ford fluid and Ford friction modifier. If it don't work, your only out the price of fluids, and a half hour or so of your time.

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[Trainmaster]

That's what I'd do. The things are very partial to Ford fluid and modifier. It worked for me on a 2000.

 

[101Expedition]

Fluid it is then. Thanks. If it persists or comes back in a short time, i'll rebuild or replace.

 

[and0r]

listen to me carefully, you need to replace the throttle position sensor. its easy to do if you take off the trottle body, which is also easy.. but trust me on replacing that sensor. they are very weak and crumble internally due to heat and age. they also make up a large portion of how your transmissions brain works

 

[1955moose]

Wait a minute, your saying that a bad TPS sensor can cause a rear differential shudder? Like Jed Clampett used to say wee doggies! How, oh how can an acting up tps make the rear end go wonky? I guess anything's possible. We got Donald into 1600 Pennsylvania Ave, so I'm listening! Your turn.

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