hey guys i have a 00 expo 5.4 4x4 and i am trying to get my ac clutch to engage but haven't had any luck so far. i have checked all the fuses and none are blown, i switched diodes nothing, i unplugged the clutch harness at the compressor and put my meter on it and got no voltage while on max ac, checked r134a levels are good. i took a screwdriver and spun the clutch on the pulley just to make sure it wasn't locked up and it wasn't, what else cani try??? thanks in advance
AC clutch harness no voltage
- Thread starter chisan
- Start date
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Captain Morgan
Full Access Members
Where is the AC relay located on a 2000 Ford Expedition?
Answer:
The A/C clutch relay is in location 204 of the power distribution box in the engine
compartment ( half size relay ) - also in PD BOX - fuse # 13 - 15 amp for A/C clutch
Relay and location # 502 is the A/C clutch DIODE
Ford states to disconnect the battery before servicing anything in the PD BOX so
your vehicle will have to relearn its idle , the clock and radio stations will have to be
reset etc.
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Where_is_the_AC_relay_located_on_a_2000_Ford_Expedition
Answer:
The A/C clutch relay is in location 204 of the power distribution box in the engine
compartment ( half size relay ) - also in PD BOX - fuse # 13 - 15 amp for A/C clutch
Relay and location # 502 is the A/C clutch DIODE
Ford states to disconnect the battery before servicing anything in the PD BOX so
your vehicle will have to relearn its idle , the clock and radio stations will have to be
reset etc.
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Where_is_the_AC_relay_located_on_a_2000_Ford_Expedition
stamp11127
Full Access Members
How did you check the r134a level? Have power at the low pressure switch?
stamp11127
Full Access Members
There are only two ways I know to check the level of refrigerant. One is to reclaim it with a recycling machine and see how much is reclaimed. The other isn't as accurate but tells you if your in the ballpark, using static pressure in relation to outside temp.
How did you check it with a coolant gauge? Maybe there is a third method I don't know about.
These wonderful engineers put the low pressure switch on the passenger side, mounted on the receiver/drier, between the valve cover and fender well. And thoughtfully behind a bunch of wires attached to a bracket. Easier to get to by removing the bolts holding the bracket to the firewall. Look for a connector on top of the silver can. That will be the low pressure switch.
If you have power at the connector you can jump the switch to test the clutch. If it engages you are low on 134a, which means a leak. I personally don't run the compressor long with it jumped, only do it as a test. When you recharge the system there is enough pressure put on the low side to close the switch anyway.
How did you check it with a coolant gauge? Maybe there is a third method I don't know about.
These wonderful engineers put the low pressure switch on the passenger side, mounted on the receiver/drier, between the valve cover and fender well. And thoughtfully behind a bunch of wires attached to a bracket. Easier to get to by removing the bolts holding the bracket to the firewall. Look for a connector on top of the silver can. That will be the low pressure switch.
If you have power at the connector you can jump the switch to test the clutch. If it engages you are low on 134a, which means a leak. I personally don't run the compressor long with it jumped, only do it as a test. When you recharge the system there is enough pressure put on the low side to close the switch anyway.
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stamp11127
Full Access Members
With the engine turned off, run a jumper between the two. Then start the engine and turn on the a/c - max. If the clutch engages then one of two things, the switch is bad or the system is low on pressure.
Not recommended to run the system for very long with that switch bypassed. If your are low/out of refrigerant then the oil doesn't circulate and you cause more damage.
Also which type of a/c controls do you have, manual or automatic?
Not recommended to run the system for very long with that switch bypassed. If your are low/out of refrigerant then the oil doesn't circulate and you cause more damage.
Also which type of a/c controls do you have, manual or automatic?
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No the other side is not a ground, When the switch is closed it closes the circuit and the voltage you saw on the red/white wire will go though the other wire out to complete the circuit. If you jump that wire as mentioned above ( put a paper clip between the two terminals of the plug) and the compressor kicks on then you know the problem is low pressure in the system or a defective low pressure switch. If it does not kick the compressor on then the problem is further down stream of the low pressure switch.
Ok so the most likely cause is low r-134a. It could be normal slow loss over a long period of time or you could have a leak that just sprung up recently. best thing to do is draw down a vacuum and see if it holds the vacuum for 10 minutes. if it does your good to charge it up and you should be fine. If it does not hold a vacuum you have a leak that needs to be addressed before charging the system.
