AC compressor clutch noise

[lonestarjeff]

Just got the timing chain project wrapped up on my 2000 XLT 4.6 & now I need to address another issue that's been around a couple of summers. The AC compressor clutch has been rattling for awhile, but it keeps working, so I put it off.

Since I spent quite a bit of time under the truck the last couple of weeks I noticed the little metal ring on the compressor clutch was lose as a goose. This one is the 3-button type clutch(2 of the buttons appear to be missing)& lately it started rattling like crazy when disengaged.

Anyone know if the offerings on RockAuto are a direct fit? UAC or 4 Seasons....both in the $65-70 range.

 

[riphip]

Sounds like the clutch Hub is getting ready to depart thru the radiator. Can probably get by with just the hub since the clutch coil sounds like it is working ok.

Motorcraft Clutch hub at Rockauto.com

 

[lonestarjeff]

Waiting for the new clutch to arrive, but here's a pic of the old one....





.....can't imagine why it was so noisy....

 

[riphip]

Good thing you got that off when you did.

 

[lonestarjeff]

I'm trying to think how long that remnant of a hub was doing the job with one nub. The only time I ever noticed an issue was about a month ago the AC just stopped cooling in the middle of a 40 minute drive. I cycled the AC switch off and back on, started cooling again.

I replaced the hub yesterday with a new Motorcraft and re-used the old shim. It's a little slow to engage...maybe 5 seconds, but doesn't slip. Still kinda noisy though. I pulled the hub back off and the belt. Wanted to see how the pulley felt. It spins freely, no wobble or drag, but it sounds kinda dry.

 

[riphip]

Should have about 2 credit cards space when free wheeling, no more. Your clutch bearing may be the problem but that also can be replaced. It may be staked.
Ford FS10 bearing

 

[lonestarjeff]

The new clutch hub is working great, but the noise coming from the area is not going away. I went ahead & ordered a complete clutch assembly when I got the hub, but I was hoping the hub would solve my noise problem. Alas, it didn't. I was beginning to think the noise was the timing chain on that side, so to rule out the chain I pulled off the belt & started the engine....all was smooth & quiet. So, I'm going to try to find a puller that'll fit in there with the compressor left in place. I don't think removing the old clutch assembly will be a problem with the right puller, but pressing on the new one may get interesting.

 

[lonestarjeff]

Managed to get the clutch assembly replaced the last couple of days. Like a knucklehead I fiddled around with removing the old pulley for a couple of hours before realizing it helps to remove the snap ring. It came off pretty easy after that, no puller required, just gentle persuasion with a couple of prying tools. The coil did require a puller. Had a little difficulty getting the wire harness blindly removed, but my fingers finally figured it out.

The new parts went back on more easily than I expected. The coil assembly is robust enough to use a small mallet to tap it into place, just have to be sure to align the harness jack with the compressor relief area. Very little room to work, so lots of tapping was required. Same goes trying to get the new pulley started onto the compressor, but once it started the bearing seated pretty easily. The new assembly required a couple of tries with the shims to get the clearance right between the hub & pulley.

All sounds normal now under the hood.

 

[riphip]

It does not hurt it to use a little dielectric grease to help in installation. I use that **** on most everything now & is obtained cheaply on Amazon. Type/name brand I use: Silicone grease
Although you can find cheaper pricing too.

 

[lonestarjeff]

After driving the truck a couple of days the compressor stopped engaging, so I ended up removing all shims from the clutch hub. Working fine now.