Almost all Mechanics are lazy. I brought my lease Lincoln in for its 'free/complimentary' oil change and rotation. I was told the oil change wasn't due(@4800mi). I said do it anyway. The service advisor said Lincoln wouldn't pay for it until 7,500mi. and its a lease, 'don't worry about it'. I explained, that I may buy the vehicle after the lease expired and want the dam oil changed. I didn't want to make a second trip in January, for it. He finally agreed and car was pulled into shop 20minutes later. I walked around, to actually see it being worked on. It was sitting there with no one working on it. To this day, I am not sure if it was done or if tires were rotated. One week later, I changed the oil myself. I had an alignment check(under warranty). I reported the problem the 1st week. I was told drive it for 500mi(pulling to right). It took 3 tries to fix that. The last time, I was given a loaner and there 'top mechanic' found a bent suspension part...pathetic.
Another dealer rip off story
- Thread starter NyackRob79
- Start date
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I brought my vehicle in for an oil change today at a new ford dealer. They offered two options on oil both synthetic blend Motrocraft but the person there said that the more expensive on also came with fuel injector cleaner and something else and was good for 10k while the regular oil change was good for 5k. I asked him about those differences as the car calculates when an oil change is needed he said the new engines can calculate viscosity so it will show up there with time. This sounds like a complete load of crap to me. They also charge $20 for a tire rotation. Anyone else experience this?
Not exactly. Its time/engine revs/miles and cold starts. Viscosity shouldn't ever go 'out of spec', if you follow service the schedule. VVT needs proper oil pressure, a full crankcase and and good filter. That is why VVT cars have larger oil pans, to make sure there is enough oil in the system, for it to work. Most of the so-called, bad phasers, were caused by poor maintenance and driving low on oil. Using the wrong weight viscosity(too heavy/thick), is bad in a VVT engine.
StealthyBulldog
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How about this, my brother took his truck in to get the oil changed while he was at work. He's been busy so asked how much for them to run a power cord into the passenger foot well for an interior heater ( gets cold up in northern Manitoba!) . They said $75 (Cdn), he said sure, get it done, well this is what they did!!
Needless to say he was NOT happy!! They said they would fix it, but he wonders if he even wants them to if they were willing to let this leave the building!
Needless to say he was NOT happy!! They said they would fix it, but he wonders if he even wants them to if they were willing to let this leave the building!
Most are just on a mileage timer and hooked on the computer like you mentioned but there are some that actually use Optical sensors to look through the oil to see particles and how dirty it actually is.
The higher-end cars that have these have proven to be extremely accurate with their percentage of oil life left when independent shops sent out oil for lab analysis.
You're also correct that if someone pays attention to the sensor or follows what their owners manual says they more than likely won't have any out of spec viscosity problems.
Some people go through both like a lot of old cars I know. They start out with a 5w 30 and it quickly shears down to a 20 but then they don't ever change the oil and it's in there so long it starts to gum up and it probably ends up being thick and gooey like a 40-50 before it's all said and done. I did a timing chain in the parking lot of a large Mall one time for some friends back when I was in my late teens or early twenties. It was on a 260 V8 in an Oldsmobile. When I took the oil plug out, the substance in there blurped out like barely warm Road tar.
It still ran for a good number of years after that.
Not all mechanics are lazy; there are still some of us that go above and beyond and do our best to take care of customers. But if you do suspect they are not performing the work they say they are, you can keep your local workshop in check by taking a paint pen and making small marks on the tires inside the tread on different channels and take pictures of the four corners. For good measure, do the same with the oil filter, drain plugs and the tie rods nuts if you’re there for an alignment. It’s a quick and easy way to spot check while you’re still there at the dealer and if they didn’t do the work they claimed, skip the service advisor and ask for the service manager directly to show them the work that wasn’t performed. They may not like dealing with demanding customers but they hate lying and cheating and good dealerships rarely tolerate employees that do either.
Tocapet
Full Access Members
I used to have a Dodge conversion van. I replaced all of the ball joints and tierod ends myself, then took it for a front-end alignment. The alignment guy told me I needed brake pads. I told him that's interesting. I just replaced them last month. Uuuuhhhh.... Nice try.
Tocapet
Full Access Members
Tocapet
Full Access Members
Some shops will take everything apart, then tell you you need calipers, pistons, pads, rotors, bearings and fluid flush. They run up a bill more than the car is worth. They won't put it back together without the new parts. They cite liability saying your car is dangerous to drive. You're forced to accept the repairs. Then you can't get it back without paying. So they file a mechanic's lien and take title to your car. THEN they put the original parts back in and sell your car. They have a good lawyer waiting in case you try to sue them.
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