Bad wheel bearing at only 30k miles!

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scottdm

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Have been chasing a growling noise in my 2018 Expy which seemed to be driveline related. Had it to one dealer that couldn't diagnose and said everything was normal. I persisted since I knew it wasn't right and took it to a 2nd dealer that quickly diagnosed a bad driver's side front wheel bearing and replaced the integrated hub assembly which includes the wheel bearing. It sounded like noisy tread on tires but changed pitch at the same speeds. I also got a bit of vibration through the accelerator at times. Glad it's solved! I think I've learned my lesson about which dealer I'll be going to in the future!
 

Fastcar

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Odd that you had a vibration in the through the accelerator and not the steering wheel. Did the second dealer have an explanation.
 
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scottdm

scottdm

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Vibration in the accelerator pedal was minor and felt like it does when 4 high is engaged. Glad it’s fixed now and I’ll know what to watch for if the other side acts up.
 

Artie

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Mid 40k milage I had an issue with mine as well, it was both the fronts. Come to find out the Navigator really doesn’t like tearing through forest service roads…doggone pavement princess.
 

lv2drive

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anyone got sound recording on this? i’m pretty sure i’ve got it as well- it seems to oscillate faster & slower in correlation with speed - and becomes less noticeable when less torque is applied to the front end drivetrain, more when light pressure on pedal with less engine noise. kinda sounds like something is in the rotor but new brakes last month & still there. less than stellar dealer blames my AT tires - bs since it’s been making that noise since i had the oem Toyo OC HT-D’s mounted. i guess i gotta wait till it gets worse or try another dealer. meh.
 

Jettix2

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Had both front wheel bearings replaced on my 2018 Max at 60k miles. Seems like an “under-built” part on these.
 

Fastcar

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Do you who made the replacement?
 

ManUpOrShutUp

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I had many wheel bearings fail on my last Ford. So far, just 1 wheel hub assembly on the Expedition has failed. I replaced it with an SKF.
 

Artie

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anyone got sound recording on this? i’m pretty sure i’ve got it as well- it seems to oscillate faster & slower in correlation with speed - and becomes less noticeable when less torque is applied to the front end drivetrain, more when light pressure on pedal with less engine noise. kinda sounds like something is in the rotor but new brakes last month & still there. less than stellar dealer blames my AT tires - bs since it’s been making that noise since i had the oem Toyo OC HT-D’s mounted. i guess i gotta wait till it gets worse or try another dealer. meh.
Mine was really subtle so I don’t think I could have captured it. I will say that the dealer said there was no issue at first but I pressed them on it and they went back out with some type of stethoscope attachment that plugged into a sensor plug on the hub and they were able to diagnose it that way. It is a low roaring noise that could be mistaken for MT tires.
 

Fastcar

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Curious, do you folks with bad front bearing run it in 4X4 every 30 days? How frequently are they engaged?
 
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scottdm

scottdm

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anyone got sound recording on this? i’m pretty sure i’ve got it as well- it seems to oscillate faster & slower in correlation with speed - and becomes less noticeable when less torque is applied to the front end drivetrain, more when light pressure on pedal with less engine noise. kinda sounds like something is in the rotor but new brakes last month & still there. less than stellar dealer blames my AT tires - bs since it’s been making that noise since i had the oem Toyo OC HT-D’s mounted. i guess i gotta wait till it gets worse or try another dealer. meh.
The tech went for a ride along with me and then was able to confirm when he used a stethoscope on the wheel hubs with the vehicle on a lift. Hopefully you find a dealer/tech that is willing to figure it out for you.
 
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scottdm

scottdm

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Curious, do you folks with bad front bearing run it in 4X4 every 30 days? How frequently are they engaged?
I run mine in 4 auto periodically to get the front driveline spinning and the front hubs locked in. The transfer case rarely engages since I'm on dry roads, and no slippage is detected, but the oil in the front diff should be sloshing around. Any grease in the wheel bearings would be separate from the diff oil, so I doubt engaging 4x4 makes much difference for the wheel bearings, but certainly can't hurt to lube up the diff components in the front axle and exercise the hubs.
 
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Artie

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Curious, do you folks with bad front bearing run it in 4X4 every 30 days? How frequently are they engaged?
I run mine in 4x4 and 4L often and I’m having issues with the transfer case, the wheel hub issue was completely unrelated.
 

NyackRob79

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Had my driver side front bearing replaced at 54k miles. Been hearing a grinding noise over the past 10k miles, thinking it was uneven tires or something else. Finally had them diagnose it and repair it under warranty. Quite as an autumn breeze now.
 

duneslider

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I have seen the front bearings go out on the F150's pretty early too. My buddies went out at under 35k on his F150, not sure if these are the same bearings as the F150 but the dealer told him it was pretty common on the F150's.
 

Artie

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I have seen the front bearings go out on the F150's pretty early too. My buddies went out at under 35k on his F150, not sure if these are the same bearings as the F150 but the dealer told him it was pretty common on the F150's.
This is reassuring… so glad we opted for the extended warranty. We plan to bail on this vehicle just before the warranty expires, I just don’t have the guts to stick with it past that point.
 

lv2drive

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Curious, do you folks with bad front bearing run it in 4X4 every 30 days? How frequently are they engaged?
i actually run mine in 4H 24/7. the steering tracking & tightness is vastly superior when it’s engaged, so much so that i just simply can’t run it in 2 anymore.... my long term MPG is identical after doing a 1k mile comparison for 2L & 4A, & not at all worried about wear since i’ve got the extended for another 8 years / 104k miles from today... added bonus if i need to stomp on it from a stand still for any reason, it’s glued to the road in all conditions.
 

ManUpOrShutUp

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i actually run mine in 4H 24/7. the steering tracking & tightness is vastly superior when it’s engaged, so much so that i just simply can’t run it in 2 anymore.... my long term MPG is identical after doing a 1k mile comparison for 2L & 4A, & not at all worried about wear since i’ve got the extended for another 8 years / 104k miles from today... added bonus if i need to stomp on it from a stand still for any reason, it’s glued to the road in all conditions.

Don't mention that to Ford or that warranty will be null and void. Willfully driving in a manner that is likely to cause damage to the driveshaft, trans, etc. is generally frowned upon.
 

lv2drive

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Don't mention that to Ford or that warranty will be null and void. Willfully driving in a manner that is likely to cause damage to the driveshaft, trans, etc. is generally frowned upon.
total BS

i drive it in 4A because i prefer the way the vehicle handles, therefore is safer. my roads are curvy as hell, steep hills, loose gravel all over. if for any reason i have to evade an accident with another vehicle, or a deer, at any speed, wet or dry, most especially higher speeds in this beast, 4A will keep my vehicle under optimal control PERIOD if i start to lose any traction. this alone makes me keep it in 4. i would like to see them try to deny a warranty claim on a drivetrain part of the vehicle because i use it “all the time.” that’s simply my choice. that’s why i bought this vehicle. 4WD is safer under any circumstance - whether constant or passive. manual states 4A can be used for ANY conditions with zero limitation. that means it’s my choice & if something stops working mechanically, that’s their problem. whether it wears parts out is irrelevant & that’s what the warranty is for.

so you basically are telling me when i put it in sport mode every day, which automatically switches to 4A, i’m risking warranty refusal? yeah right . here’s this cool drive mode - but if you use it every day it voids your warranty because you’re “willfully driving in a manner that will likely cause damage...”. maybe that mode switches to 4A because it actually handles better & has better traction - not to mention the driveline is designed to be used that way?
 
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