Banker with tools vs Cylinder Head

[toms89]

I'm betting the broken rocker was a result of the piston to valve contact. Now whether this was a result of over-reving, broken or weak valvespring or sticking valve is a mystery. It looks to me like there was significant oil in that cylinder to create that kind of buildup on the exhaust valve. Hopefully its coming from damage valve guide or seal and will be repaired in the process otherwise you may have oil control issue on that piston/cylinder.

If you get it back together I would "read" the spark plugs frequently at least initially to make sure you don't have a bad or poor fuel injector.

Fuel rich on bank two would be the drivers side unless I am mistaken. Bank one should correspond to the bank with the #1 cylinder (passenger side).

 

[rvanbeers]

Thanks for the comments and big thanks for all the help. It's off to the machine shop now and then I get to put everything back together. I've decided to only doing the one head because i HAVE A BAD FEELING....

I'll be going back to the shop and complete the negotiation. I want all my money back because there is no way they did a leak down otherwise the exhaust valve issue would have been identified and i wouldn't have had them do anything.

I'll be looking for a low mileage used motor to put in my garage and want to try a full restoration and replacement. This can easily become an addiction.

For those trying this at home with little experience... you can do it with motor in vehicle! Here's a quick summary of must have's or do's

Head Removal on 2003 Expedition 5.4 2 Valve

- Good selection of sockets regular and extended, breaker bar and torque wrench
- Assortment of small wrenches for the tight fit areas
- A couple cans of PB Blaster
- Toms89 and Stamp and thermo assistance and know how
- Impact ($39 - electric)
- Harmonic balance puller ($30.00)
- Thread chaser for the head bolts (Next on my list)
- Chilton manual (Makes the timing thing very scary but as thermo and tom told me it's pretty straight forward)

Special Tools
- Ford Cam timing Holding tool ($35 plus shipping)
- Ford Fan Clutch Wrench (Not necessary - I couldn't find one the correct size and ended up wedging a screwdriver and the mounting bolts and used a large crescent)

Tips and other things:
- Remove tire(s) and inner fender - (There is one screw hidden behind the molding)

- This made accessing the bottom back valve cover bolts way easier

- It also made connecting the socket and extentions to the exhaust flange easier

- Labeled freezer bags for bolts

- Masking tape for wire labels

- Fan must be removed. I did not remove the rad.

- When you finally get the head bolts out. Note there is a bracket on the back of the head holding the line to the water pump that must be removed.

- Your drivers side ignition and injection wires are also attached to the back of the passenger head via plastic clips and you cant see the connector.

- Remove head bolts before locking the CAM shaft tool because it covers them or you can do what I did and that was temporarily securing them cam and relocating the locking tool to a location that had the bolts removed.

- The last bottom head bolt will not come fully out. Hold it up with an elastic. It can then be removed if you lift and move the head forward a bit.

- You can take the head out with the exhaust manifold. Make sure you move the exhaust flange past the bolts on the manifold to assist in pulling the head out

- The third bolt on the Power Steering pump is a PIA and takes patience as there is very little room to work.

Toms89 now has me concerned about the piston and oil and which way it was entering the combustion chamber. I guess time will tell and if it is piston/ring related I guess the only solution is to pull the motor. Here's to hoping it was coming through the top.

As for my learning curve and confidence, I enjoyed doing the tear down from a learning perspective. If it was about time and money I probably would have went straight to engine replacement which I kind of anticipate I'll be doing anyway.

That will be my next learning. Then I'll be back at the auction to get victimized on a Beamer or acura. Can't wait for that fun!

I'll be back to post the outcome and/or solicit help if I can't get it together - LOL.

I did manage to justify buying myself a nice new compressor and full set of air tools. (Still hidden from the wife)

 

[stamp11127]

I hear you on the Beamer, wife wanted another convertible. I said why don't you go test drive a Z3 that needs a little work. Long story short, that is my next project this spring/summer - can you say "Adult Go Cart"?

I can just imagine what they are like with an LS1 under the hood.

 

[Jeff532003]

This is an awesome thread!! Congrats to you Mr Banker man for sticking with it and getting this far in your undertaking. The world needs more people like you who are unfraid to tear into something that is outside their comfort zone. I'm definitely curious to see how this all turns out. I have a feeling the oil was from the top end but we shall see. If you do wind up doing an engine swap rock auto can be your best friend for low prices on replacement parts. Once you get the engine squared away you can start working on the suspension to feed your new hobby Just tell the wife that its a 10 year old truck with 145k and you want it to be safe for the family. That should justify the cost lol.

 

[rvanbeers]

Exciting time gentlemen. I got my head back today all shiny and new. $8.00 for the valve and a total of $645 for everything around it. $360 for cleaning/valve job and then 285 for all gaskets and new bolts. Note: I live in Canada where parts seem to a price of their own. I Broke two manifold studs taking it off - Ford Price $14.00 for each stud and $4.00 for the Bolt. Can anyone say bendover.

So I put the rockers, cam and exhaust manifold back on last night (my 10 year old daughter has gotten into helping me with this so I think I have to go buy her coveralls now). I'll be stocking the beer fridge after work and will be on a mission to fire the puppy up tomorrow. 2 months to tear down and 2 days to put back together..... A guy can dream can't he.

I know there was lot's of comments about doing both heads..... I took my head to a very reputable engine re builder and he told me there was no need to do both heads for this type of problem as the firing issue was due to open intake/bent valve. You could argue this. I'm not going to! he also indicated the oil was likely top down as the intake valve. We'll see!

 

[rvanbeers]

Hoping to achieve man like status today!

Stamp - You'll like this.

Got the head on....wife had to help guide the exhaust manifold studs into the flange. Not sure what was worse.....my wife nattering, texting (yes texting) and not paying attention or the ripped stomach muscle I got while holding the head to position it.

Got everything torqued - WTF whats the rubber on the back bolt (NOTE REMOVE RUBBER BAND)

Next - Timing cover. I was really proud of myself - went very quick..... OOOPS. Note to self - need to insert Crankshaft sensor before securing the cover. Noticed that right after I crawled under to secure the oil pan. REDO!

Everything else went good! Until beer # 8. Must of crossed the intake gaskets......bolt number 10 wouldnt go into the cross over............ok....went to bed.

THats where I'm starting today. Pull the intake back off....of course I torqued down all the other bolts.

Kids don't try this at home.

BIGGEST CHALLENGE I HAD was getting that stupid fricken steering pump back on. I thought taking it off was hard...............getting those bolts in was a capital PIA!!!!

 

[toms89]

LOL....

I am sure all of us can relate and have had these things have happened at one time or another. Its good you have a sense of humor about it.

Sounds like you are making progress though!! Wish you the best of luck and hope it all works out.

We're here if you can need moral support.

 

[stamp11127]

The next time she is "helping" you by texting, drop something heavy on her foot. Then give her hell for not paying attention....

 

[rvanbeers]

Yeah baby



Well...at exactly 4:15 PM yesterday I had the engine all back together.

4:16 I cracked a beer looking at the glorious build and thinking about where that one extra bolt goes that I had left over.

4:17 I sat in the drivers seat and put the key in the ignition. Let the fuel pump pressurize.

4:18 Boom baby. Started within seconds and purred better than my 2012 F150 Ecoboost.

4:19 Turned off the engine and went to check things out. A lot of smoke was coming out. Pinpointed it to the exhaust - Lots of oil and coolant hit it when i took the head off.

4:25 Took my kid for a good run...................Everything is Perfect.... F'ing Perfect! (Pinks coming to Edmonton)

Thanks guys for the know how when needed. It's forums like these that provide help and support to do things outside of your comfort level.

There is nothing more rewarding in my opinion than a huge undertaking like this and actually fixing the problem.

 

[Jeff532003]

Well...at exactly 4:15 PM yesterday I had the engine all back together.

4:16 I cracked a beer looking at the glorious build and thinking about where that one extra bolt goes that I had left over.

4:17 I sat in the drivers seat and put the key in the ignition. Let the fuel pump pressurize.

4:18 Boom baby. Started within seconds and purred better than my 2012 F150 Ecoboost.

4:19 Turned off the engine and went to check things out. A lot of smoke was coming out. Pinpointed it to the exhaust - Lots of oil and coolant hit it when i took the head off.

4:25 Took my kid for a good run...................Everything is Perfect.... F'ing Perfect! (Pinks coming to Edmonton)

Thanks guys for the know how when needed. It's forums like these that provide help and support to do things outside of your comfort level.

There is nothing more rewarding in my opinion than a huge undertaking like this and actually fixing the problem.

AWESOME!! So glad you got this all done man! Way to go. Hopefully she'll give you many years more service now. I think your thread here will inspire many more people to tackle larger jobs.
I do have one question. Do you have a rough estimate of how much you wound up putting in to getting fixed versus what the shop wanted to do the job?