Bilsteins installed on my 17 Limited

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joethefordguy

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True but Bilstein is kind enough to provide new hardware so no need for the extra step.

An update on my venture I ended up going with the adjustable Bilstein 5100 instead of the 4600 with a spacer.
The top notch for the 5100 equates to a 2” lift on the F150s. With the different spring between the Expedition and F150 it equates to a 4” lift on the Expedition.
Needless to say that is way too much lift on the rest of the stock components and really can feel it being over extended on larger bumps.
So I will be pulling the fronts and dropping the snap ring down 2 notches and hopefully be at 2”


Black, assuming you adjusted the Bilstein for a 2" lift, is that 2 inches with or without a 3" front spacer lift on the top of the strut mount?
thanks for your time.
jg
 

Black

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No spacer on the front 5100s. Lift comes from the adjustable ring that the lower spring perch sits on.

You can’t run a spacer on top of the 5100s.
 

Linksvu

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No spacer on the front 5100s. Lift comes from the adjustable ring that the lower spring perch sits on.

You can’t run a spacer on top of the 5100s.
Black, I wasn't quite following, what lift did you finally go with? How has it been since?
 

Linksvu

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This is great. Thank you for such a good write-up. I'm assuming one could get just 1" out of them to level the front, correct?

Do you have any idea if the 5100s will work with CCD?
 

Black

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This is great. Thank you for such a good write-up. I'm assuming one could get just 1" out of them to level the front, correct?

Do you have any idea if the 5100s will work with CCD?

The 5100s made for the Expedition will give you 1” of lift but no more.
I presume because any more will cause the control arms to hit the coil like I have developed after 6 months.
I used F-150 Bilsteins because the Expedition ones were not available but even if the Expeditions were available at the time I want more lift than 1”
The Bilsteins will not work with the CCD system. You would have to completely swap to the non CCD components as well. A huge cost and time factor.

I do not know enough about the CCD to know if you could slap a 1” spacer on the front and 1 it fit and 2 it not have any unintended consequences.
 

Derp

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No spacer on the front 5100s. Lift comes from the adjustable ring that the lower spring perch sits on.

You can’t run a spacer on top of the 5100s.

Black, I assume you mean "shouldn't" and in the context of the f150 5100s? Is there a reason, it isn't possible?

Do you think Expedition 5100s and a small spacer would work or would I also be looking for upper control arms to make that work? I've been searching all the threads on here and I don't see this option discussed yet. Thanks!
 

Black

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Sure can physically bolt a spacer on the 5100 setup because the factory top hat is reused.
But the purpose of an adjustable strut is to keep better geometry than a strut spacer provides. You may as well buy the 4600s since they are cheaper and add a taller spacer.
Here is a nice video comparing the leveling strut to strut spacer and strut extension.

While you can physically bolt the strut spacer to a 5100 (or any leveling strut no matter the brand) you don’t want to nor is it safe because the actual strut body and shaft are longer than factory and you run a serious risk of bending the shaft and damaging the strut.
The design of the leveling strut takes into account the longer body and shaft by having different spring perch locations than OEM.

As for needing new Upper Control Arms I am willing to bet on the 15-17 models anything over 1” with a leveling strut will cause control arm to coil contact or else Bilstein would have added more height possibilities.
The reason strut spacers can attain more lift without control arm to coil contact is because the geometry of the two are different.

I went 6 months with no contact at 2” though the arm was so very close to the coil but now frequently have contact. I am presuming that my control arm bushings were tight enough after retightening during the 5100 install that over time the bushings softened enough allowing for a bit more articulation for just enough downward movement to allow contact now.
That coupled with the extreme angle the factory ball joints are at they are likely wearing much quicker.

I had hoped to get my UCAs installed today but a stripped lug thanks to the shop that rotated my tires a couple weeks back stopped that from happening so it will have to wait till next week since I have a lawn Aerator rental reserved for tomorrow and can’t put that off any longer since colder weather is finally upon us.
 

Derp

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Thank you for the detailed description and video, that was very helpful! I think I'm starting to wrap my head around the suspension geometry issues.

Edit: answered my follow up questions by reading around more
 
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