Brake Rotors

[Machete]

I tried Powerstop, will never buy that crap again. Warped after 10,000 mi. I went back to OEM MC for rotor and pads. They just work well. Next time Ill use MC rotors and try Hawk ceramic pads to see if I get improved stopping. MotorCraft just fits, quiet, and no dust, but not the best at stopping power.

 

[CyberVinnie]

My recommendation is to take a driving course.

I’d be happy to meet you at the next track day at your venue of choice.

 

[1955moose]

Its strikes me as funny, that so many have no problem plunking down $50-70k for their SUVs but won't plunk back down $100.00 for each Ford OEM rotor. I can't tell you the complaints I had to address with customers complaining about squeaking/squealing after a pad change. I almost never heard a peep out of them when I installed Ford/Chevy/Toyota oem pads and rotors. They just work. If you want good stopping power, get a set of Ford Motorsport drilled/slotted rotors, or drill your own. Back in the day, that's what you did, sort of a roll your own. Course not everyone had a drill press, and a milling machine, but I knew a guy!

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[Plati]

Some might think that they can warp rotors by "driving hard and getting them hot" then quenching with water (rain, car wash, etc). Science doesn't support that though. The metal would need to get 4 or 5 times hotter than you can do by driving for that to happen.

Its science though. Metallurgy
Not everyone believes in science.

I hate cheapass junk pads
Probably chinese

 

[TobyU]

Here's what I've found on taking care of any rotors if you care.
Avoid getting them wet when hot. That can warp them quickly.

After braking especially hard but even at stop lights if they are hot....don't sit with foot on brake in one place on rotor.
Either shift to park and let foot off brake pedal or let it roll 6 inches every few seconds.

 

[Plati]

So much for science ... Haha!

 

[1955moose]

Other thing I heard years back, don't know if true, but don't apply e brake when rotors/shoes are hot. Like after a 20-50 mile drive. Makes sense I guess, applying anything hot metal to friction material, can't be good. Heat in pretty much anything is the enemy. Even with pads, you only want so much heat between pads and rotors, after that point, it's fading time, and oh crap, I can't stop. That will make your sphincter pucker! Pushing down on that pedal, heading towards that 18 wheeler!

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[TobyU]

Other thing I heard years back, don't know if true, but don't apply e brake when rotors/shoes are hot. Like after a 20-50 mile drive. Makes sense I guess, applying anything hot metal to friction material, can't be good. Heat in pretty much anything is the enemy. Even with pads, you only want so much heat between pads and rotors, after that point, it's fading time, and oh crap, I can't stop. That will make your sphincter pucker! Pushing down on that pedal, heading towards that 18 wheeler!

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Except for the many that have the ebrake small shoes in the middle.

 

[1955moose]

Yeah but that's why they stick. The hat parts spinning with the rotor. Then when you push down on the ebrake pedal, when the drum is hot, the shoes stick. I rarely use my ebrake, unless I park on a hill. The hat in rotor ebrake doesn't work real well. On top of that, the shoes are a pain to change. Their not like your normal Bendix type shoes on most 90's and older rear shoe type brakes.

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[jeff kushner]

Mr stik makes a good point....the rotors today are ventilated and yes they get quite warm but most of us feel pulsating in the wheel and we call it "Warped rotors". To me, it's just a sign I need to open things up....not a diagnosis. When I raced bikes taking a bike/rider wt of 494lbs(on a good day) from 170-180 to 40 in a couple of hundred feet, I would swear I saw red but driving my lumbering truck at 70-80 ain't going to do it.....

I will go with OEM rotors & Ceramics. I've used ceramics for years on my SLK b/c they stop very well, don't behave differently in the rain and they don't leave brake dust all over my alum rims. I

jeff