Brake Switch?

[GTR-34]

hey,

yesterday evening my stop lights stopped working.
couldn´t find the problem so I asked google.
google showed me this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ivomx5QeUvE

fixed it with electrical tape like the guy in the video and I also bended the lower copper thing a little bit to be sure they contact to the same time.

now my wife tells me the cruise control doesn´t work anymore.

does somebody have an idea?

thanks in advance.

 

[stamp11127]

Just so happens the brake switch is used to deactivate the cruise control. It is possible there is a new problem with the switch. If you have a meter you can check the operation of the switch.
They may use two switches, I'll look at the diagram tonight and post the info.

 

[stamp11127]

After you bent the contact, did you test the switch with a meter?

It is always better to replace faulty parts with new or reman to avoid "comebacks".

 

[GTR-34]

What should I measure where?
I never tested it with the meter.

The CC worked when the brake lights didn't work on the way back home, that's what confuses me a little.

When I stand in park right after I started the engine I hear like a relais noise after I push the brake and when I release it. But not when when I'm driving.
Sounds like the "relais" is behind the cluster or steering wheel.

 

[stamp11127]

The stop lamps and cruise control are both running through the brake pedal position switch.

You would use a dmm to check the switch operation. The switch has three sets of contacts which control three circuits so there is a chance one or more are now messed up.

The sound you are hearing is most likely the brake/shift solenoid and not relays.

Diagram attached for the speed control. See the sticky in the electrical section on checking fuses with a meter.

 

[GTR-34]

Thanks.
Gonna have a lool later.

 

[GTR-34]

I ordered a new one but I will also have look later.

 

[GTR-34]

Ok I messured something



Between 3 and 4 I had 0,4 Ohm and when I pushed the button and my wife put the contacts on 5 and 6 and than on 1 and 2 it was 0,4 again.

Could the problem maybe something else?

 

[stamp11127]

Depends on whether the meter is subtracting the resistance of the leads. What does the meter read if you touch the leads together?
But the readings show there is continuity between the contacts.

When the new switch arrives consider adding a small amount of lube to the plastic button to reduce wear.

Contacts 1 - 2 still look burned.
What contact did you bend as stated earlier?

The problem may lie elsewhere, once the new switch is in then we will diagnose further. I prefer to take my time in diagnosing a problem. That way the real reason is found compared to tossing parts at it and not knowing which one "fixed" it.

 

[GTR-34]

I bended contact two.
I think it could be the relay cause that's what it sounds like behind the cluster and manual says you should go to dealer.

 

[stamp11127]

Well, if you believe everything you read.....

The only time I go to a dealer if it is still under warranty. After that I fix it if I have the tools. If I don't have them, I go buy them.

See the sticky on testing fuses and we can start there if you want.

Can you read and understand the wiring diagram posted earlier?

 

[GTR-34]

I don't belive everything

I checked all fuses and they are good.

It's a long time ago I had to understand those diagrams

I wanted to find that relais to maybe check it.


Gesendet von iPad mit Tapatalk

 

[GTR-34]

Ok, the new switch is in the car but cruise control still doesn't work X(

 

[stamp11127]

The next step in diagnosing is dangerous since you will be probing wires/contacts on the steering wheel. I would remove the airbag as a precaution so that you don't set it off accidentally. Should you set it off and be in the way there is a potential of losing your life. If you don't feel comfortable working around them then I agree with the manual about taking it in.

The usual fault is in the airbag sliding contact or the speed control switch as shown in 031-02 and 031-03.

Let me know if you want to proceed with the diagnosis.

 

[GTR-34]

I used to be a car mechanic back in Germany before I joint the forces, I'm ok with airbags.

I've been at the Ford dealer a few minutes ago to get an idea. The lady said the switch maybe needs to be adjusted. You can't adjust it but there is an other button...


The one with the blue.
I'll drive to a friend deal quick to check how it looks on his Expedition.


btw this is the klicking noise. Never heard it before.

https://vimeo.com/138689127

 

[GTR-34]

He is the bad guy
Now I need to see how I can adjust it.

 

[stamp11127]

Look at 031-01 for the wire colors. That is the deactivator switch. You can jump it temporarily to see if the cruise will come on the dash. Needs to open to deactivate.

I'm going to assume that when you checked the fuses you had 12v on both sides of them.

Referencing 031-03, I would check for power on C218B pin 4 going into the sliding contacts and the LB/BK coming out to the steering wheel speed control switch. If no power is found then trace the same circuit back to the pcm for VREF. VREF is usually 5v.

You should have VREF at:

C175B pin 37

C210 pin 20

C218B pin 4

 

[GTR-34]

Actually I didn't meassure anything. Just the ohms at the switch and fuses.

After I saw how it looks like on my friends Expy I tried pushing the button while driving.

But thanks for your help

Now I just glued something on there which pushes the button.

 

[Skauber]

If you suspect the CC disconnect switch, just jump it with a wire and see if the CC works. I went through this not long ago and it turned out to be the steering wheel switch that was bad on mine, the ON button.

 

[Kermit]

I know this is second gen but would that PDF schematic you uploaded be the same on a 99 stamp?