Jingram1083
New Member
2011 expedition limited.... is there a way to get to the lifters “lash adjusters” without removing the cams and messing with the timing?
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Yes they come out, look at the videos on U-tube.2011 expedition limited.... is there a way to get to the lifters “lash adjusters” without removing the cams and messing with the timing?
2011 expedition limited.... is there a way to get to the lifters “lash adjusters” without removing the cams and messing with the timing?
So what was wrong with them and how do you think they went bad? Many are putting over 200k miles on these with no problems like that.I just did a complete timing job on my '12 with new roller followers (aka rockers) and lash adjusters (aka lifters).
Unless you are small, flexible and have extreme patience - there is no way I would try to replace these without removing the cams. It is a huge PITA. Especially the back cylinder on each side.
If you follow the book and compress each spring, remove the rocker, rotate the cams and repeat - the lifters are easy to remove. But, it does take a long time and you will be swearing. I didn't do it by the book. I removed the cam caps slowly/evenly and replaced everything at one time. Worked awesome.
So what was wrong with them and how do you think they went bad? Many are putting over 200k miles on these with no problems like that.
Not seeing why one engine could be more sensitive to oil than another and I saw that video. My cousin was one of those people that never did anything but drive them and those people can't change a spark plug.....ironic.
My v-10 was rattling for 3 minutes on cold mornings so I tore it down to the block in the front. The timing chain was fine (they usually are) and the guides were like new (200k miles) so I didn't even bother to put the new ones in but it did need the 2 tensioners that caused the rattling. They can leak or blow out anytime and I wonder if using that red # 1 hardening Permatex would be good to use on them.....….hhmmm. Lots of people have plugged the tensioner O-rings a bit by adding different things to buy some time. It did take a couple days to fix.The 5.4L 3-valve had a revision in 2011, I believe. The de-facto issue with all of them is that the oil passages are too thin. They apparently addressed some of it, but it's still not great. This is why a "high volume" oil pump is recommended - otherwise use thicker oil to raise pressure.
There are also other factors that could be at play. Perhaps additives in some oils are better than others at preserving lubricity, even when the oil is worn. Personally, I run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and have supplemented my 5.4L with a dose of Motorkote to keep it lubed up at cold starts.
Amazingly, the Motorkote seems to have my occasional startup rattle (timing-related) disappear, so it might be doing some good on roller-followers and lash adjusters too. I'm still gonna do a complete timing / oil pump upgrade this summer, though (roller-followers too).
As for Motorkote, this guy had me convinced. I watch a lot of his stuff on YT:
My v-10 was rattling for 3 minutes on cold mornings so I tore it down to the block in the front. The timing chain was fine (they usually are) and the guides were like new (200k miles) so I didn't even bother to put the new ones in but it did need the 2 tensioners that caused the rattling. They can leak or blow out anytime and I wonder if using that red # 1 hardening Permatex would be good to use on them.....….hhmmm. Lots of people have plugged the tensioner O-rings a bit by adding different things to buy some time. It did take a couple days to fix.
Optional Cast Iron Primary Chain Tensioner; Can Be Used In Place Of BT430 Plastic Chain Tensioner To Eliminate Tensioner Seal Oil Leaks