Cam Cap possible mix-up 5.4 3v

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rocketfuel

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I made a rookie mistake and did not mark my cam caps when performing a timing job. Everything was taken out and placed on the table in the same orientation. I was inspecting the caps and looking at the journals and noticed no forged stamp or arrows (oem).

One of the caps #3 R was a different orientation with other forged marking than the others. Meaning the M and the 5-11 was not the same orientation as the L #3. Each cam has a M and then 5-***. None of them are 1-8.

This got me thinking maybe I placed the cap down in reverse or somehow mixed them up.

I inspected each cap and tried to follow the small amounts of scoring compared to the journal on each side. Some where easy to match and the mirror caps (very good condition) did not have a pattern to follow.

The cams are now in, timed, and preparing to start up over the weekend. I thought maybe posting this would share some ideas if there is anything else I should consider before running with it. I was so detailed on everything else and frustrated I did not check for forged markings before removal as I would have painted/labeled each one.

Rotation of the camshaft felt fine by hand and rotation of crankshaft after timing appears to be normal. This is my first 5.4 3v timing job. Upgraded to melling oil pump 340hv and replaced all lash adjusters and roller/followers.

Any help is appreciated and thank you!
 

JamaicaJoe

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rocketfuel

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Thank you, JamaicaJoe

I saw this F150 post prior and was hoping my caps would be marked the same, they unfortunately are not.

Compared cap groves to cam journals as mentioned above.

Appreciate the response
 
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rocketfuel

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I have searched everywhere for ford cam cap identification data with no results. It appears some 5.4 3v do have stamped identification and some do not.

I am not a machinist but suppose the cap will re-mate itself as it is much softer than the camshaft. Hopefully there will not be to much clearance if I accidentally placed the orientation backwards.
 

twodollars

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At this point I would just run it. Os the cap at least on the correct journal? If so, just fire it up.
 

JamaicaJoe

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I have searched everywhere for ford cam cap identification data with no results. It appears some 5.4 3v do have stamped identification and some do not.

I am not a machinist but suppose the cap will re-mate itself as it is much softer than the camshaft. Hopefully there will not be to much clearance if I accidentally placed the orientation backwards.
Can you get some plastiguage (tm) and try assembling both ways and seek the most symmetrical fit? Hopefully with proper clearance for oil pressure?
 

Mechatronics

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I made a rookie mistake and did not mark my cam caps when performing a timing job. Everything was taken out and placed on the table in the same orientation. I was inspecting the caps and looking at the journals and noticed no forged stamp or arrows (oem).

One of the caps #3 R was a different orientation with other forged marking than the others. Meaning the M and the 5-11 was not the same orientation as the L #3. Each cam has a M and then 5-***. None of them are 1-8.

This got me thinking maybe I placed the cap down in reverse or somehow mixed them up.

I inspected each cap and tried to follow the small amounts of scoring compared to the journal on each side. Some where easy to match and the mirror caps (very good condition) did not have a pattern to follow.

The cams are now in, timed, and preparing to start up over the weekend. I thought maybe posting this would share some ideas if there is anything else I should consider before running with it. I was so detailed on everything else and frustrated I did not check for forged markings before removal as I would have painted/labeled each one.

Rotation of the camshaft felt fine by hand and rotation of crankshaft after timing appears to be normal. This is my first 5.4 3v timing job. Upgraded to melling oil pump 340hv and replaced all lash adjusters and roller/followers.

Any help is appreciated and thank you!
I work in a machine shop.
If you do decide to just run it I would recommend changing your oil and filter within 1000 miles. You want to get the metal pieces out of the motor from the Cam and Journals re-mate (not actually a thing. We are just saying 'remating' to make this bad scenario seem ok). I would also, check check your cam and journals after a 1000-2000 miles to make sure there is not too much play. If you can move the cam and you see oil come out of the journals there is too much play. You shouldn't be able to see any play at all. If there is metal in your oil and too much play on the cam you will likely be buy a new head, engine, vehicle soon. Sorry if this is a negative response, but in my opinion you are in a bad spot unless you get lucky with the Journal placement.
 
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rocketfuel

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Appreciate the advice..

I will drain and refill before 1k to play it safe. This weekend did not work regarding startup due to other holiday plans.

Hopefully this weekend I can finish the job and I will also check for play (oil seepage at the journals/tower/cap) as of assembly and then again at 1k.

Thanks for the input.
 
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