Camshaft and lifters

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Jingram1083

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2011 expedition limited.... is there a way to get to the lifters “lash adjusters” without removing the cams and messing with the timing?
 

TobyU

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2011 expedition limited.... is there a way to get to the lifters “lash adjusters” without removing the cams and messing with the timing?

Yes with just a screw driver at the least but why do you think they need replaced?
Very rarely any problems. More roller rocker (follower) problems.
 

rameredit

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I just did a complete timing job on my '12 with new roller followers (aka rockers) and lash adjusters (aka lifters).

Unless you are small, flexible and have extreme patience - there is no way I would try to replace these without removing the cams. It is a huge PITA. Especially the back cylinder on each side.

If you follow the book and compress each spring, remove the rocker, rotate the cams and repeat - the lifters are easy to remove. But, it does take a long time and you will be swearing. I didn't do it by the book. I removed the cam caps slowly/evenly and replaced everything at one time. Worked awesome.
 

07navi

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I just did a complete timing job on my '12 with new roller followers (aka rockers) and lash adjusters (aka lifters).

Unless you are small, flexible and have extreme patience - there is no way I would try to replace these without removing the cams. It is a huge PITA. Especially the back cylinder on each side.

If you follow the book and compress each spring, remove the rocker, rotate the cams and repeat - the lifters are easy to remove. But, it does take a long time and you will be swearing. I didn't do it by the book. I removed the cam caps slowly/evenly and replaced everything at one time. Worked awesome.
So what was wrong with them and how do you think they went bad? Many are putting over 200k miles on these with no problems like that.
 

762mm

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So what was wrong with them and how do you think they went bad? Many are putting over 200k miles on these with no problems like that.


Oil sludge is said to kill them pretty quickly. Hence why it's always good to run synthetic oil only in these and do oil changes regularly, even before recommended intervals.

Makuloco on YT has videos of opening sludged-up 5.4L engines that have been neglected. It's really something...
 

07navi

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Not seeing why one engine could be more sensitive to oil than another and I saw that video. My cousin was one of those people that never did anything but drive them and those people can't change a spark plug.....ironic.
 

762mm

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Not seeing why one engine could be more sensitive to oil than another and I saw that video. My cousin was one of those people that never did anything but drive them and those people can't change a spark plug.....ironic.


The 5.4L 3-valve had a revision in 2011, I believe. The de-facto issue with all of them is that the oil passages are too thin. They apparently addressed some of it, but it's still not great. This is why a "high volume" oil pump is recommended - otherwise use thicker oil to raise pressure.

There are also other factors that could be at play. Perhaps additives in some oils are better than others at preserving lubricity, even when the oil is worn. Personally, I run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and have supplemented my 5.4L with a dose of Motorkote to keep it lubed up at cold starts.

Amazingly, the Motorkote seems to have my occasional startup rattle (timing-related) disappear, so it might be doing some good on roller-followers and lash adjusters too. I'm still gonna do a complete timing / oil pump upgrade this summer, though (roller-followers too).



As for Motorkote, this guy had me convinced. I watch a lot of his stuff on YT:

 
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07navi

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The 5.4L 3-valve had a revision in 2011, I believe. The de-facto issue with all of them is that the oil passages are too thin. They apparently addressed some of it, but it's still not great. This is why a "high volume" oil pump is recommended - otherwise use thicker oil to raise pressure.

There are also other factors that could be at play. Perhaps additives in some oils are better than others at preserving lubricity, even when the oil is worn. Personally, I run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and have supplemented my 5.4L with a dose of Motorkote to keep it lubed up at cold starts.

Amazingly, the Motorkote seems to have my occasional startup rattle (timing-related) disappear, so it might be doing some good on roller-followers and lash adjusters too. I'm still gonna do a complete timing / oil pump upgrade this summer, though (roller-followers too).



As for Motorkote, this guy had me convinced. I watch a lot of his stuff on YT:

My v-10 was rattling for 3 minutes on cold mornings so I tore it down to the block in the front. The timing chain was fine (they usually are) and the guides were like new (200k miles) so I didn't even bother to put the new ones in but it did need the 2 tensioners that caused the rattling. They can leak or blow out anytime and I wonder if using that red # 1 hardening Permatex would be good to use on them.....….hhmmm. Lots of people have plugged the tensioner O-rings a bit by adding different things to buy some time. It did take a couple days to fix.
 

762mm

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My v-10 was rattling for 3 minutes on cold mornings so I tore it down to the block in the front. The timing chain was fine (they usually are) and the guides were like new (200k miles) so I didn't even bother to put the new ones in but it did need the 2 tensioners that caused the rattling. They can leak or blow out anytime and I wonder if using that red # 1 hardening Permatex would be good to use on them.....….hhmmm. Lots of people have plugged the tensioner O-rings a bit by adding different things to buy some time. It did take a couple days to fix.


I'm not sure the Permatex would do anything, plus I hate to do that kind of a ***** of a job twice, lol!

I've read some good things about the "upgraded" Melling brand tensioners. They are cast iron and not supposed to warp or blow gaskets. Melling is the same company who came up with the HV (high volume) oil pumps for the 5.4L Ford engine... something that Ford apparently said was "impossible" before Melling did it.

Their oil pumps also have a thicker backing plate that doesn't bent like the OEM pump, thus preserve good oil pressure in all RPM ranges.

My summer 5.4L Triton upgrade will use Melling parts as much as possible. Even Makuloco swears by them and gets great results, so there must be something to it. Guys on the F150 and Ford Truck forums seem to have only good things to say about the Melling stuff as well.


From Rockauto:

Optional Cast Iron Primary Chain Tensioner; Can Be Used In Place Of BT430 Plastic Chain Tensioner To Eliminate Tensioner Seal Oil Leaks

BT403-1-TOP__ra_p.jpg
 
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