Changing out all coolant and heater hoses...

[Machete]

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Derale/D13030.html

 

[johnboneske]

I’ve never replaced any of those hoses, none. They’re original.

With regard to ‘why tranny cooler’ this is also a ‘rather have it and not need it than...”.

My boat rig is approximately 3200-3500lbs fully gassed and loaded. I’ve made this drive from Chicago to Florida many many times. It’s 50% of the total mileage on my truck (185,***). It is a long grueling run.

There’s a section of this run through Tennessee on I-24 that snakes through steep mountains and I don’t want to heat up the tranny.

I drive straight through breaking only for gas and brief naps if I get sleepy driving at night. Otherwise it’s a constant run for engine and tranny.

Same for engine/tranny mounts. They are original. I’ve always changed them on my daily driver cars but neglected replacing on my truck. I always noticed smoother my vehicles were w fresh mounts besides it’s my understanding that keeping engine tranny alignment helps extend life of tranny and drive line.

Shoot, that just reminded me to check u joints etc!

What I am saying is, it should already have the trans cooler. Does yours have the 4 wire or 7 wire trailer harness on the hitch? If it has the 7 wire, it is already setup to tow 8500 pounds. If it doesn't, and you have looked behind the the grill and in front of the radiator, and there isn't a trans cooler, the I agree with adding one. Better to not need it, rather than not having it.

I will assume you have either an Android or Iphone? If you get an app called Torque Pro and a blue tooth adapter you can monitor trans temps. I have it for pulling and love it. Here is my adapter for the app. For less than $25 you can monitor everything.

Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner Check Engine Light for Android - Compatible with Torque Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hJPnCb7VQ6QQ9

 

[TobyU]

I think 1000 is robbery for that work but I am cheap.

The only only ti would do is change upper and lower radiator hoses and drain and refill radiator. No reason to pay for power flushes flushes etc.
You can flush the rad a couple of times with the garden hose when you have the clamps off the lower hose and refill then dump, refill run a few, dump etc.
You might want to put a new thermostat in it and when its out is a good time to run garden hose through all top hose and intake opening and flush some.
I don't like shops power flushing and never want my heater core touched unless it is being replaced!!

No one ever (well most no one)replaces hoses to rear heat as maintenance.
Inspecting them is one thing. If they get bad looking ok but they rarely give any problems. If one ever gives out on a trip all you have to do is pinch it or the other one off or slice it and stick a make shift plug into it and clamp it.

You probably already have a trans cooler. If not they are fairly cheap even at parts stores. 50-70 I think and easy to install.

It shouldn't know that boat is there.

 

[1955moose]

I'm with Toby. These obviously are Bullit proof hoses, if they go 19 years. Back in the day we used to change upper/lower hoses every 4 years for safety. In reality hoses even then went as much as 7-9 years. The only one you didn't change was the blue silicone police type hoses. Maybe just drain, hose flush, and new Ford, or top Stant thermostat. Bring along an upper and lower hose, just in case. Good to know these hoses are so strong. I wouldn't mess with the heater core ones before a trip. It's working well, like the other poster said, don't poke a 19 year old bear. Yours is same year, same green as mine. I've only put in $500.00 in over 4 years, not too shabby.

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[Machete]

Yup. I have trailer tow pkg. I even installed a brake controller cause this boat trailer has electric brakes.

I’ll rethink the heater hoses but will do upper/lower coolant hoses, upgraded tranny cooler (larger), new lines/fittings.

I didn’t think about new thermostat but it’s now on the list, thanks for that one! The radiator is also original hmmm.

This and the motor/tranny mounts and I’ll be ready to pull her down to Fl without worrying.

I’ll definitely look into the tranny temp monitoring app. I was wondering about getting a gauge on the A pillar but couldn’t find the trim piece w the cut out.

All great advice. Thank you !

 

[TobyU]

These have a nice big radiator I've never seen anyone get clogged up restricted the point of having an issue. I have had Town Cars mainly 96 and 97 but maybe a few 98 + that the radiators were barely marginal enough for the vehicle and when the flow got a little restricted you could rev it up and feel the top hose pressurize and they would overheat when driving. If you idle they would cool off but driving they would get hot because the flow was restricted.

 

[1955moose]

Toby all the early Crown Vic's had the same problem. We had a stack of them at our cab company back in 08. My shop manager said he tried litterealy every brand including Ford. They all leaked or clogged, mostly leaked. I kid you not the stack was 20 high, that he was recycling .Ironically my 3 mustangs 82,85,86, and 2 Lincoln's, 84,89, never had a problem. Guess it was a 4.6 problem, or everyone got cheap and cheated! Seems to happen a lot.

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[TobyU]

I certainly believe it. All the ford ones I've seen that clogged up were made by Visteon. Also my 2001 Excursion also had a Visteon from the factory.
They were just one large oval row. The old cars always had the standardized smaller rows in the core and you had two, three or four rows. These were one longer oval row but obviously were undersized for the 4.6 V8. I had one that basically every 4 years would get clogged up enough to overheat. Pop a new radiator in it and it was good as gold for another four years.
Had another 92 I think that wasn't quite as bad as the newer one but once it was hot you can squeeze the upper hose and rev up the engine and it would open up your grip from so much pressure. I thought it was going to explode the hose. The water pump was pumping so much out but it couldn't get through the radiator.

 

[Trainmaster]

Just a note that using distilled water will keep much, if not all that slag from accumulating inside your radiator and heater core.

 

[Machete]

Just a note that using distilled water will keep much, if not all that slag from accumulating inside your radiator and heater core.

Should I replace the radiator as preventative maintenance? It too is original. If I’m gonna do the coolant hoses and thermostat why not go ahead and replace the radiator w new OEM?

 

[Adieu]

Backflush: basically involves splicing in an adapater to attach a garden hose in and then wash out the system. Then rinse (dilute) with distilled, drain, repeat, etc until you get tired of it....and finally add concentrated coolant (don't use premix, cause the backflush leaves a bunch of water in the system)

Without backflushing.... you'll get like 1/2 - 1/3 of the old coolant out per coolant "change"

 

[Trainmaster]

Should I replace the radiator as preventative maintenance? It too is original. If I’m gonna do the coolant hoses and thermostat why not go ahead and replace the radiator w new OEM?

There are problems with the "shotgun" approach of changing parts for preventative maintenance, then taking that long ride. Without a careful analysis old the parts' deterioration, you often risk damage to the few remaining original parts.

Twenty-year-old car: You change hoses, radiator, water pump. Lots of mung is cleaned out. Now the pressure and cooling pressure's restored. Wham! That crappy old heater core is pushed to its limit and water's pouring out from under the dash. And you're a thousand miles from nowhere.

Remember what happened when you changed the varnished tranny fluid in that 100,000 mile, fifteen year old Chrysler? The seals blew.

You are also putting a lot of bets on new parts, which are at least sometimes defective. And as cars get older, the quality of replacement parts decline. Often only the crappiest manufacturers are left making parts for a vehicle. Finding 20 year OEM is like finding hens' teeth. More likely, you'll only be able to get Chinese junk.

I'd minimize my parts changing to things I knew were in poor condition and I'd do it a month or two before the long trip. This way any new problems could pose themselves before I'm en route and new troubles would be minimized.

 

[TobyU]

I wouldn't. Inspect for any cracks forming in the plastic tanks. No real reason to replace.

 

[TobyU]

I won't put a garden hose pressure into a heater hose or any other way that it could pressure above 15 psi.
Now if you always have an other open end and let the flow go on slowly the pressure would never spike but garden hoses can be 40-60 PSI.
I pop lower hues off and leave clamp off so I can push it on and off. Dump and refill. Run and repeat. I even leave car running and do the dumping and refilling until I have nice clear water.

 

[Machete]

I have dealer do the radiator flushes. I spoke w my service advisor and he talked w the tech who works on my truck he said hoses, belts, radiator are all good.

How can that be though, they’re all original!

I’ve altered my list to just coolant hoses, tranny lines, add on tranny cooler to supplement the in-radiator one it has and keep my fingers crossed during the trip.

I do need to look into that temp monitor for tranny.

 

[Yupster Dog]

Probably a gimmie, but you never mentioned the spare tire. maybe take it down to check air and see if the mechanism is working properly check your jack and see if it works good on the boat trailer. might need a couple pieces of wood to lift trailer properly.

 

[Machete]

Probably a gimmie, but you never mentioned the spare tire. maybe take it down to check air and see if the mechanism is working properly check your jack and see if it works good on the boat trailer. might need a couple pieces of wood to lift trailer properly.

Oh geez don’t get me started on the trailer! I did have bearings repacked and brakes checked and new spare mounted on trailer. Lights checked. All last summer but will go through list well before departure.

You should see readiness list for boat!

Good suggestion though. Thanks.

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

I have dealer do the radiator flushes. I spoke w my service advisor and he talked w the tech who works on my truck he said hoses, belts, radiator are all good.

How can that be though, they’re all original!

I put 180K on my last truck and replaced 2 hoses and one drive belt in that time. On my wife's sedan I replaced the drive belt once around 150K; all hoses are original with 205K on them. I replaced all 3 heater hoses on my Expedition around 100K. One of them sprung a leak, so I replaced all 3 hoses plus the coolant at the same time. Since I was doing the work myself the additional cost was only $30 or so I think. If I had paid a shop to do it, I would have just left them since they were still fine.

 

[Adieu]

I have dealer do the radiator flushes. I spoke w my service advisor and he talked w the tech who works on my truck he said hoses, belts, radiator are all good.

How can that be though, they’re all original!

I’ve altered my list to just coolant hoses, tranny lines, add on tranny cooler to supplement the in-radiator one it has and keep my fingers crossed during the trip.

I do need to look into that temp monitor for tranny.

Dealers and mechanics don't backflush when you order a "coolant flush"... that's why they only use a couple gallons of premix coolant

 

[Trainmaster]

but you never mentioned the spare tire.

My 2000 left its spare tire somewhere on I-78 at 200,000 miles. Looked for it one day and only found the broken stump of the elevator wire. So check that and strap it in.

Another weak point is the belt, as was mentioned and both belt pulley bearings and the tensioner. They are inexpensive and I've had every one I've owned give up at 130 - 170K miles. Very easily changed on the Expedition.