Crank, no start, made it worse...kinda lost

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Gary D White

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Ok try to make this short as possible. Car was running rough, then it wouldn't start. I put a new fuel filter and pump on. She'd start, as soon as put into gear it'd diet. So I decided it wouldn't hurt to change the spark plugs n ait filter. Oh boy, changing the plugs was a *****. I cleaned up the injectors, COP's, throttle body and housing behind the throttle body .Won't start at all now. Does sound the same, has a lower sound, slower. Bought a multimeter,checked ignition coils they're all right around 1.0/0.9 on the primary, on the secondary I believe it's around 5.4 with the kind that is just a spring, the ones with the prong at the end of the spring is about 0.5/0.7 higher. Attempting to see if they're making spark I took COP's out n put everything else in place. Hooking each coil up the no5 connector I'm not seeing any spark. Just plugged it in and shoved a spark plugs and in the boot .nothing. what am I missing, where do I need to look now? IAC? I cleaned it along with everything else. EHR pressure feedback sensor? EGR valve control switch? Voltage regulator? PCM? Bad alternator? Blown fuse? Bad relay?
 

TobyU

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You have to have the plug metal thread body grounded to engine to spark.
Unlikely that you would lose spark to all coils.

Is it cranking fast enough with nice hot battery?
What vehicle are we talking about here?
Did you try spraying some gas of starting fluid into throttle body and crank it?

If started once after pump it should start again.

Can you hear the pump kick on when you turn key to on?
Have you checked for fuel and pressure at the fuel rail?

There are some fuses under hood on most that can get corroded for fuel pump and ecm and pervent starting but not common of ford trucks. Happens a lot more on older Town Cars and Crown Vics.
 
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Gary D White

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It's a 99 expedition 5.4. it's getting fuel pressure, I can hear the hum of the pump, n I tripped the fuel pressure valve with a screw driver n got a good spray. Battery is over 12v. I've had to charge it a couple times, I've been ****** with it for a week. The spark plugs have gas on em when I pulled em back out, so I assumed there's no spark. I'm at a loss here, doesn't make sense to me. Can I ground a test light n stick it n the boot to check for spark while cranking? This is first COP vehicle I've messed with. Have not tried starting fluid, simply cause the sound of the cranking changed so drastically
 

TobyU

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It's a 99 expedition 5.4. it's getting fuel pressure, I can hear the hum of the pump, n I tripped the fuel pressure valve with a screw driver n got a good spray. Battery is over 12v. I've had to charge it a couple times, I've been ****** with it for a week. The spark plugs have gas on em when I pulled em back out, so I assumed there's no spark. I'm at a loss here, doesn't make sense to me. Can I ground a test light n stick it n the boot to check for spark while cranking? This is first COP vehicle I've messed with. Have not tried starting fluid, simply cause the sound of the cranking changed so drastically


As long as its cranking fast . 12.7 is good battery.

Sounds like you have no spark.

Don't use test light. Will blow it. Don't need. When they are working it is so strong you will know it and probably be zapped by it.

Hold gas pedal to floor and see if it clears out.
But if you have no spark it is not going to run.

I do most of my work on TC 4.6s so bear with me.

You have an ecm fuse somewhere. Do you have the owners manual?
Find out where the ecm fuse is and check any ecm or ecm1 or ecm 2 fuses or ecu etc.
It should be in the power center on driver side inner fender. We have a 2000 out here but hood latch is stuck right now.

It is usually in the first 3-4 fuses in the row but you can't be sure if row starts form front or back so just pull and reseat at least the first and last 4.
Should be big maxi fuses not the little rectangle with clear window tall ones.

You can use test light to check power is key on to the ecm fuses.

There is also a relay that can be bad too.
You can swap the similar relays in the box ( I think they are all in there but TCs have some separate in other box) swap to test.

A bad crank sensor will kill spark AND injector pulse the last I checked. So if you have wet plugs you should have injector pulse.
YOu can check crank sensor with volt meter on AC volts. It is above the ac compressor.

I don't think might feel or listen to an injector to see if it is clicking when cranking.
If the injectors are pulsing it's not a crank sensor.

Also some fusible links over by battery.They can kill ecm power.

Good luck and let us know.
 
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Gary D White

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I will definitely let you know if I have any luck. For clarification, using a test light on the COP will blow the COP ,a relay, or something worse? Don't have owners manual, have a Chilton's book that doesn't provide the info I'm looking for, just what bolts to take out n all that. Anyone can change parts, I'm sure proof of that. Thank y'all for the info
 

TobyU

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I will definitely let you know if I have any luck. For clarification, using a test light on the COP will blow the COP ,a relay, or something worse? Don't have owners manual, have a Chilton's book that doesn't provide the info I'm looking for, just what bolts to take out n all that. Anyone can change parts, I'm sure proof of that. Thank y'all for the info

Not the cop but likely the bulb in the test light.
You can ohm out coils but it's a waste of time if you are just checking for spark. It will jump about an inch out of the boot tip to ground if it's firing.
 

1955moose

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I have owners book and wiring diagram for 2000, close enough. Your problem sure sounds spark related. Your coils are fine. The readings are fine. Check #30, 30 amp fuse inside cabin fuse box far right second from bottom. It powers the coils. I don't see any fuse or relay for the Ecu, or crank position sensor, but like To by said, you've got fuel pulse, so in theory the CPS is good. Try replacing that 30 amp fuse first, and be sure to check both sides of fuse for 12volts.

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