So 3 days ago I noticed my truck cranking over slightly slower than normal, over the past few days it seemed to get slower and slower until today it just finally wouldn't crank at all. Truck runs perfectly fine once it starts and I had the battery and alternator checked today and they are fine. After getting the charging system checked I went home to clean the terminals and check the connections to narrow out the easy options but after I finished that it just wouldn't crank at all. I can hear the solenoid or relay click when i turn the key but that's it, nothing from the starter at all. Any input on this?
Dead starter?
- Thread starter JTKustoms
- Start date
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Also check the battery after you check the starter, I have had issues with bad starters killing the battery, I went through 3 red top optimas in 2 weeks, Right before the 3rd died the starter went out. Once I replaced the starter, and battery I had no more issues..
Actually if it was my truck, before I pulled the starter I would climb underneath with my meter, disconnect the starter (so there's no chance of it coming to life) and check for voltage at the starter while a helper turned the key. Just remember to be careful.
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Honestly what I'd do, its probably the easiest to, find the fender wall solenoid and take a screw driver.and jump power across the posts, if it doesn't start or crank its the starter or the power cable going to the starter.
Slow cranking with a good battery means there's a shit ton of resistance which is a lot of heat
sent from my mind via of telepathy
Slow cranking with a good battery means there's a shit ton of resistance which is a lot of heat
sent from my mind via of telepathy
GAINMOB
Full Access Members
JT...check your fuel pump...could be something with the relay/sender/pump assy
sgtowing
Supporting Members
I think bad starter as well.
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Which is the starter solenoid? I have one that is connected to the starter itself then i have one that is on the firewall. I found each one on the autozone replacement parts page but the firewall mounted one says "Application: Without starter mounted solenoid" and the one on the starter says "Application: With starter mounted solenoid".
Last edited:
Captain Morgan
Full Access Members
I see at least 8 connections that need to be perfectly clean metal to metal.
This slow failure you describe sounds to me that either the contacts in one of the relays was marginal and finally eroded to the point of absolute failure, the brushes are completely wore down and shot, or the windings in the starter moter are gone.
Print this out, be careful testing and don't confuse voltage and current on your meter
(I know you would never do that)
Wirinr diagram for starter 1998 ford expedetion - JustAnswer
.
This slow failure you describe sounds to me that either the contacts in one of the relays was marginal and finally eroded to the point of absolute failure, the brushes are completely wore down and shot, or the windings in the starter moter are gone.
Print this out, be careful testing and don't confuse voltage and current on your meter
(I know you would never do that)
Wirinr diagram for starter 1998 ford expedetion - JustAnswer
.
The starter solenoid is on the starter and when energized it kicks the gear out to engage with the flexplate.
The part on the firewall is might be called different things but it is really just a big relay.
Try what notmyidi posted jump the two large terminals on the box mounted to the fender. If the starter turns, the problem is the relay mounted to the fender. If it doesn't go, check for twelve volts at the relay (on the terminal that is connected to the battery). If there is power here like he said it is either the starter or the wire to the starter.
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Last edited:
Notmyidi.I understand. I didn't take it that way. I didn't give enough detail. I replaced my starter last month on my expy. When I jumped out the fender solenoid as you suggest here. And verified the starter was seeing voltage. I knew it was time for a new starter. I even tried tapping the starter with a hammer.
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LameSuburbanDad
Full Access Members
Your answer has been laid out before you. though over several posts. If your charging system has check out ok, and all other functions seem normal. then occam's razor tells us that the simple answer is probably the right one.
tsgrpr97 was right when he suggested a bench test, these starters are easy to get to so it's no big deal.
captain morgan nailed it when he suggested you run a check over all the wires from the starter, to the solenoid on the firewall, and finally to the battery. be sure you focus on the the ground connections as well (specifically the ground on the frame just across from the starter....mine went bad)
and finally 786jayone with the picture of the solenoid (which is normally covered by a piece of dark plastic, but was removed for the photo.) that gives you all the visual references you need to follow the trail from battery to starter.
and as a just in case for anyone else who has this problem who might not be so mechanically inclined. start your wire checks at the battery. Follow to the solenoid, then lay down on your back and check the leads to the starter and grounds etc. and use tools guys, don't just check fasteners for "finger tight" that way when you think it's the starter to begin with, you can check everything THEN be on the ground with tools in hand to take the next step and check the starter, instead of back-pedaling and making more trips to the parts store.
tsgrpr97 was right when he suggested a bench test, these starters are easy to get to so it's no big deal.
captain morgan nailed it when he suggested you run a check over all the wires from the starter, to the solenoid on the firewall, and finally to the battery. be sure you focus on the the ground connections as well (specifically the ground on the frame just across from the starter....mine went bad)
and finally 786jayone with the picture of the solenoid (which is normally covered by a piece of dark plastic, but was removed for the photo.) that gives you all the visual references you need to follow the trail from battery to starter.
and as a just in case for anyone else who has this problem who might not be so mechanically inclined. start your wire checks at the battery. Follow to the solenoid, then lay down on your back and check the leads to the starter and grounds etc. and use tools guys, don't just check fasteners for "finger tight" that way when you think it's the starter to begin with, you can check everything THEN be on the ground with tools in hand to take the next step and check the starter, instead of back-pedaling and making more trips to the parts store.
LameSuburbanDad
Full Access Members
aww now I feel bad. OK,
and Notmyidi does bring up a valid and pretty accurate way to do a "shade-tree" test.
it is simple, quick, and reliable.
however, sometimes a jump of this kind could create a few very small sparks (and probably not hot enough to pose a threat) but I am extra careful and would not want someone to inadvertently set their engine bay ablaze.
which leads me to another solid pointer, remove the negative battery cable before you check your wires... after you've done any multimeter checks you may be able to do simple enough, right?
and Notmyidi does bring up a valid and pretty accurate way to do a "shade-tree" test.
it is simple, quick, and reliable.
however, sometimes a jump of this kind could create a few very small sparks (and probably not hot enough to pose a threat) but I am extra careful and would not want someone to inadvertently set their engine bay ablaze.
which leads me to another solid pointer, remove the negative battery cable before you check your wires... after you've done any multimeter checks you may be able to do simple enough, right?
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