DIY Oil Change

[scottdm]

lost me at “Canadian”. I had no issues with Canada...then I worked for Canadians. And got totally screwed by them. Ugh.

I had a Fumoto valve and ended up switching to Stahlbus which is a similar design to what TrainMaster mentioned above. I like that the Stahlbus has a threaded cap that keeps dirt out of the valve between oil changes. My Fumoto valve was getting dirt in the drain port between changes. The Stahlbus also drains more quickly in my experience due to the larger drain port & hose.

http://www.stahlbus.com/products/en/oil-drain-valve/index.php

 

[Deadman]

Interesting thread. I have always change my own oil and used cheap oil and parts (O'reilly oil and Fram Filters). I figure since I'm changing it around every 5-6K miles, the quality should be fine. However, now that I've dropped $60k, I'm probably going to consider spending a little more on higher quality parts. hmm...

Google cut open oil filters and you will be amazed the difference in internal filter media. Frams are of the very worst.

 

[Trainmaster]

From what I've learned, most oils will do fine at protecting an engine for the recommended interval. The filter, however, can be of dubious quality. The 5.4 3-valve motors need a check valve in their filters. Cheaper ones don't have that and it permits oil to run down from the heads and chain tensions when the engines turned off. I try to stick with Motorcraft filters for that reason.

 

[Nate2020KR]

I use Schaeffer's full synthetic 5W30. We use Schaeffer's in all of our vehicles, I order it direct and get it alot cheaper than if I buy it off of the internet. And we also have a rep who I can call and ask questions and get the right answer. I use Blackstone Labs for oil analysis.
I recently got this valve but did not install it on my 1st oil change. But will do it next time. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B077ZNH8C9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_R9QEM539TV3TQWP169JW?psc=1

 

[Fozzy]

I use Schaeffer's full synthetic 5W30. We use Schaeffer's in all of our vehicles, I order it direct and get it alot cheaper than if I buy it off of the internet. And we also have a rep who I can call and ask questions and get the right answer. I use Blackstone Labs for oil analysis.
I recently got this valve but did not install it on my 1st oil change. But will do it next time. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B077ZNH8C9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_R9QEM539TV3TQWP169JW?psc=1

Good luck with that. We used Schaefer’s for a few years. Bought barrels and pallets at a time. We started having trouble with the oil going into the turbo of the new 6.7 Powerstroke. Bearing failure on equipment. Grease running out of the pins in our excavators. Several blown Duramax’s and CAT motors. Come to find out the oil in our barrels is not the oil we think we are buying. The sales man would come out and show us his amazing test where he puts the oil on a spinning rod and you can’t stop it from spinning with his oil. And challenges all the other oils. And you can’t stop it with anyone’ else’s. Before everything went down he came out and we asked to see the bearing test again. He got his contraption out and grabbed his bottle of oil. Our fleet manager said let’s use the oil out of one of our drums. Guess what? Stopped it instantly. We tried another barrel. Same results, we asked him to do it with the oil in his bottle. He refuses, so we asked him about his grease test. Showed him the grease shelf dripping in oil and oil soaked cardboard boxes. He told us we must have gotten a bad shipment and quickly left. Needless to say we use Chevron and Shell and have not had any problems since and save some money as they charged a premium for regular oil. All our vehicles get oil sampling done 4 times a year and they come back good for the most part. It’s the inconsistent viscosity and not meeting the standard for the manufacturers recommendations that gave us the problems. Truly snake oil or absolutely zero quality control.


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[Trainmaster]

<deleted>

 

[Nate2020KR]

Good luck with that. We used Schaefer’s for a few years. Bought barrels and pallets at a time. We started having trouble with the oil going into the turbo of the new 6.7 Powerstroke. Bearing failure on equipment. Grease running out of the pins in our excavators. Several blown Duramax’s and CAT motors. Come to find out the oil in our barrels is not the oil we think we are buying. The sales man would come out and show us his amazing test where he puts the oil on a spinning rod and you can’t stop it from spinning with his oil. And challenges all the other oils. And you can’t stop it with anyone’ else’s. Before everything went down he came out and we asked to see the bearing test again. He got his contraption out and grabbed his bottle of oil. Our fleet manager said let’s use the oil out of one of our drums. Guess what? Stopped it instantly. We tried another barrel. Same results, we asked him to do it with the oil in his bottle. He refuses, so we asked him about his grease test. Showed him the grease shelf dripping in oil and oil soaked cardboard boxes. He told us we must have gotten a bad shipment and quickly left. Needless to say we use Chevron and Shell and have not had any problems since and save some money as they charged a premium for regular oil. All our vehicles get oil sampling done 4 times a year and they come back good for the most part. It’s the inconsistent viscosity and not meeting the standard for the manufacturers recommendations that gave us the problems. Truly snake oil or absolutely zero quality control.


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That sounds terrible! I have to say that's the first time I have ever heard bad things about the brand honestly. I have had very good luck with Schaeffer's. I definitely have not been through the amount of product you have, sounds like. We've ran it in a PS 6.7 for 40k and a 7.3 for 20k with out a hiccup. I just put it in the 2020 F450 1000 miles and my Expedition 1500 miles ago. My '14 BMW 535d diesel (emissions intact) with 50k miles had elevated Nickel 20 and avg was 3. This was with BMW dealer oil changes. I definitely wanted to go with something better than dealer bulk oil.

 

[keny01998]

I also get the oil change indicator showing up around the 4-5k mark. I do tow and when not towing it is mostly short trips. All of which is harder on everything. I need to get a fumoto valve, would make things easier for sure. Walmart carries the ford oil and filter so I run that. Doesn't make sense to me to use expensive oil and filters if I am changing it 3 times a year.

Anyone have the Fumoto part # handy? Of course I can google it but sometimes its nice to know others are using the same part number and google didn't lead you astray.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DBB96PJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Zig10]

Amazon makes it way too easy to shop for filters and oil these days. I have run the Motorcraft filters and oil on mine and change at 5000-6000 miles since I do tow my boat with it (7500 lbs). Just for my own sanity, there is no way I'd let a TT motor go to 9000 miles before an oil change on even a full synthetic oil. If these engines weren't popping phasers and timing chains it would be a different story, but I'd like to do whatever I can to avoid that.

GMs 3.6 had similar issues with he chain tensioner early in their lives, and the one in my CTS grenaded at 55,000 because of it. Once bitten...

 

[MxRacer965]

I had a Fumoto valve and ended up switching to Stahlbus which is a similar design to what TrainMaster mentioned above. I like that the Stahlbus has a threaded cap that keeps dirt out of the valve between oil changes. My Fumoto valve was getting dirt in the drain port between changes. The Stahlbus also drains more quickly in my experience due to the larger drain port & hose.

http://www.stahlbus.com/products/en/oil-drain-valve/index.php

I’m debating between the fumoto and stahlbus. Seems a lot more folks have experience with fumoto. Have you used both?

 

[Trainmaster]

I use the Nospill. I like that it's domestically made, all brass and is available in a very low profile which prevent it from getting snagged or getting open by debris. Never a problem. Railroad uses them in most equipment.

The Valvomax looks very similar too but is stainless steel, made in USA. Looks real good.

Stahlbus is similar of steel with an aluminium cap. The dissimilar metals may loosen? Looks real nice, German company but they don't say where it's made.

Fumoto is made in Japan. I just don't like the projecting valve and the attached, though locking lever. I'm afraid something could hit it. Also a small flow opening.

EZOilDrain is Chinese crap.

 

[5280tunage]

haven't had any issues with dirt on my fumoto, but for one I only have 13k miles and two, it's completely covered by my skid plates with an access panel.

 

[MxRacer965]

Think I’m going valvomax or stahlbus. The stainless of the valvomax and a USA company that is veteran owned are pluses. Not sure I like or dislike the fact you need to thread the release on whereas the stahlbus is quicker 1/4 turn...

 

[scottdm]

Think I’m going valvomax or stahlbus. The stainless of the valvomax and a USA company that is veteran owned are pluses. Not sure I like or dislike the fact you need to thread the release on whereas the stahlbus is quicker 1/4 turn...

I'm sure either option will work well. I've been pleased with my switch from the Fumoto valve to Stahlbus. Looks like the cap on the Valvomax has a tether, which is a nice feature. The threaded connector on the Valvomax may also give you more time to get the drain hose situated before the oil starts flowing. I have to have everything lined up quickly when I insert the 1/4 turn connector on the Stahlbus since the oil starts flowing quickly.

 

[lbv150]

I have the Fumoto valve on my '16 works good and directs the oil 90 degrees down. I change the oil every 3,000 with a Motorcraft filter and semi synth oil. I also leave the felt cover off and get slightly lower tranny temps.

 

[DCS_express]

Anyone know what size a 2018 expedition would need with the aluminum oil pan? Thinking of the valvomax just because it's stainless steel and I drive on the beach frequently.

Amazon says this fits but just odd to me because it sounds metric:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B077ZNH8C9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_R9QEM539TV3TQWP169JW?psc=1

Valvomax website says the same (m12-1.75):
https://www.valvomax.com/products/m...less-drain-tube-knob-1?variant=33149385736301

 

[DWs-TTEB]

Rockauto says M12-1.75” as well
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...bocharged,3440431,engine,oil+drain+plug,10231

 

[DWs-TTEB]

Anyone know what size a 2018 expedition would need with the aluminum oil pan? Thinking of the valvomax just because it's stainless steel and I drive on the beach frequently.

Amazon says this fits but just odd to me because it sounds metric:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B077ZNH8C9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_R9QEM539TV3TQWP169JW?psc=1

Valvomax website says the same (m12-1.75):
https://www.valvomax.com/products/m...less-drain-tube-knob-1?variant=33149385736301

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...bocharged,3440431,engine,oil+drain+plug,10231

 

[Nate2020KR]

It is M12-1.75 for the aluminum oil pan.

 

[wakeboarder]

Anyone know what size a 2018 expedition would need with the aluminum oil pan? Thinking of the valvomax just because it's stainless steel and I drive on the beach frequently.

Amazon says this fits but just odd to me because it sounds metric:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B077ZNH8C9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_R9QEM539TV3TQWP169JW?psc=1

Valvomax website says the same (m12-1.75):
https://www.valvomax.com/products/m...less-drain-tube-knob-1?variant=33149385736301

I would be surprised if there is a single part on a stock Expedition that is not metric.