Driver front caliper locking up.

[K-Pedition]

Driver front caliper locking up on 2006 4WD. Codes are C2770 stability control sensor cluster, C1233 and C1234 both front wheel sensors. Will the stability sensor, wheel sensor or both cause it to lock up?
The three other wheels turn freely.

 

[K-Pedition]

The three other wheels turn freely while in drive.

 

[mhg1]

Sensors should not be able to lock the caliper.
The only thing that can lock a caliper is gunk in the fluid or rusted piston. Could also be something broken on the caliper mount. Maybe a bolt frozen. This is where I would start.
M

 

[K-Pedition]

Thanks.
I replaced the caliper just because the age of the vehicle to see if that would fix it, but it didn't. So, looks like I have to go to the dealer to get that sensor. The auto parts shops do not carry it.

 

[BlackCoffee]

I agree, I have been running with the track light for two years, it should not be causing a problem. It should be out of the circuit when it throws a fault code. The stability control also only activates intermittently. If the caliper is locked while driving straight, look elsewhere. Did you flush the brake fluid. It could be the distribution box has a valve sticking. If only one-wheel locks, I would see if a good flush fixes things.

 

[Johnathan M]

I agree that a sensor wouldn't be causing your wheel/brake to lock up.

Could be your rubber brake line. I had an 05 Expedition a while back. I started noticing that when I got on the throttle after coming to a stop, it seemed that something was holding me back a bit. Also, if I was on a slight downhill, when I would release the brakes, it wouldn't roll right away. After a bit it would slowly start to roll. I jacked it up and tried each wheel and found out it was both front wheels. It wasn't the calipers. I didn't resolve the problem until I changed both rubber brake lines that ran to the calipers. I was sure it wasn't the brake lines because both front wheels were locking up. But that's what it was. I guess sometimes two unrelated things can happen at the same time. My brother said sometimes what happens is this. The rubber brake line runs through a metal bracket at some point (I think where it has an attachment point to the knuckle). If that metal starts to rust and swell up, it can constrict/restrict the rubber brake line to the point that it lets the fluid back very slowly after releasing the brakes (or maybe not at all if it's really constricted). Hope this helps!

 

[BrandonK4204]

just had this problem and it turned out to be the rubber brake lines going to the front wheels. i thought the calipers were bad so i replaced them and my brakes were still sticking bad. i guess after a certain point those rubber lines just turn to gunk on the inside

 

[USAF Sarge]

Had the same issue on a vehicle, the rubber brake line was deteriorating inside. In my case the brakes would work normal in the am, then one would drag, then loosen up when parked a while.

Dissected the hose after testing and replacing it. Tested it out of curiosity by cutting the connectors off, taking a syringe and shooting water both ways. One direction no issue, other direction resistance and back pressure. Turns out there was a small flap hanging down inside, creating a check/reflux valve per se, it let the fluid go one way, but when it tried going the other way the retreating fluid pushed the flap down keeping the caliper from releasing. After some time the fluid pressure would slowly bleed off.

Discovered this after replacing the caliper as I thought it was the culprit.

 

[cecilbridge]

Have you checked if the 4WD actuator has gone bad on the driver side causing ONLY that front wheel to go into 4x4 and locking the hub & axle and slowing the truck down? Im going thru the same problem, replaced my calipers & brake hoses only to find out my 4WD drive actuator had gone bad. Easy to check - Jack up the front wheel, engine off and both the wheel and axle should be locked and turn as one. Start engine, put it in 2H and the wheels should turn freely without the axle turning. If the 4x4 actuator is bad, it’s easy to replace … numerous videos on YouTube on HOW to to change it without removing Hub bearings or lower ball joint.

 

[mr_dave]

I recently replaced ALL of my brakes (calipers, pads, rotors, soft lines, fluid) and found both front caliper lower guide pins / bushings were completely seized.