Ecoboost Expy Oil Change

[rich6655]

I feel you pain. I think the Ford Engineers don't think about maintenance until after the design. I did my first 2 oil changes by only taking of the metal skid plate and the fabric plate next to it. The front rubber piece I left in place and only opened up the side to get me hand in and remove the oil filter. I did do this- I removed the drain plug and installed a F107N: Long Nipple Valve with 12mm-1.75 Threads with Lever Clip with a drain hose. Now all I do is pull down the hose, flip the lever on the drain. No more pulling off the skid plate, spraying oil everywhere when you take out the plug. Small mess when you unscrew the filter but that is a small easy mess to handle.

 

[lbv150]

With 30,000 on my '16 and changing the oil every 3,000 it has gotten easier and routine. The very first change sucked. During the summer months I keep the fiber shield off for better cooling. Put it back on in the fall to keep the road salt out. The biggest hassle I find for doing the oil change is the the fiber shield...

 

[sixsix]

They make Ford dealers to do that work for you. Reasonably priced for that kind of service

I went that route after the first 2 changes. Even with them doing it I still had to come home and clean up after them cause they didn't wipe the drain pan at all. So I figured if I still have to clean up I might as well go back to doing it myself.

The Works costs me $72.55 with full synthetic motor oil. With my annual mileage it's once a year and full synthetic is completely unnecessary but gives me a warm fuzzy feeling just knowing it's in the engine. I don't even get my hands dirty.

-- Chuck

Havoline ProDS full synthetic 6 quart box is $19.99 and like 6 bucks for the motorcraft filter at wal mart. I'm changing mine every 5k miles which for us is about every 3-4 months.

 

[coolzzy]

I have the dealer change the oil every 5k miles with Motorcraft 5w30 semi synthetic and Motorcraft filter. I do this twice a year, and it costs $51 and they rotate my tires and check brakes and fluid levels AND this service shows on a carfax. I have a CPO warranty and feel dealer oil changes means they could not deny a warranty claim bases on poor maintenance. I change my other three vehicles oil myself in the driveway on the same schedule with full synthetic. TBH, I've never even been underneath the expedition.

 

[Brubro]

AND this service shows on a carfax.

That is about the only reason I'd bring it to the dealership. To me, it's a time thing. I own a business that takes up a ton of my time and just don't have the time to deal with the dealership for an oil change and the potentially shoddy work (not mopping up the 1/2 cup of oil that sits and slowly drains from the filter catch pan). Guess I'll get used to it. I keep all of my service records, so warranty shouldn't be an issue. It's a good point though. Thanks!

And, anyone else with advice, please do so, but remember, I'm an old-school gear-head, am fully capable, and already did change the oil, so reiterating the basic procedure is not necessary. I will try to only remove the rear felt panel next time.

To those that mentioned the square access panels- Videos show people changing oil leaving the skid plate on, and residual filter oil comes out of the center access panel, but also a hole in the depression closer to the driver's side, which has a hole in it, about 3/8" diameter, maybe. The vehicle was on jack stands. It appears that there will be an inevitable mess, and I absolutely don't want that on my driveway or slowly draining on the road. That's just not cool. I used to ride motorcycles. So, looks like I'll take the skid plate off and see if I can control filter drainage by removing the filter slowly so that it only comes out of the back drainage area. Hopefully, I can get a rag in there to clean the filter drain pan from the front felt cover area. If that is the case, then only the rear felt panel will have to be removed (four 8mm bolts). I could live with that I guess.

As far as removing the air-box to access the filter, I'll look into that next time, but since I am already under the vehicle, it seems easier to detach the front felt corner with the 90 degree hand screws than taking the entire thing off like last time. I wanted to see what I was dealing with, and another person somewhere said it had to go, so I took it completely off. Next time, I plan on trying to only move that side out of the way. I can't imagine being able to easily clean the filter drain pan from the top, but I'll check it out.

 

[sixsix]

As far as removing the air-box to access the filter, I'll look into that next time, but since I am already under the vehicle, it seems easier to detach the front felt corner with the 90 degree hand screws than taking the entire thing off like last time. I wanted to see what I was dealing with, and another person somewhere said it had to go, so I took it completely off. Next time, I plan on trying to only move that side out of the way. I can't imagine being able to easily clean the filter drain pan from the top, but I'll check it out.

I'm 6'6" with long arms, so for me it's much easer from the top. Once you get the top of the air box out (unplug MAP sensor and hose clamp @ flex tube) it opens up and you have a lot more room to work with. I only slightly jack up one side so I can slide by big ass under there, then when I do the filter I jack up the front ever so slightly, just enough to ensure all the oil drains out of the rear of the funnel.

 

[16plati]

Only plate that needs to come off is the one covering the oil pan. Remove that and the fabric liner up front jack the vehicle up and get to work. Y’all are making this seem impossible. I’m about to change my wife’s oil on her 16 and make a video to put you all at ease...

 

[HawkX66]

3) Remove drain plug 15mm, drain oil then install plug hand tight and start engine 30 seconds to drain filter.

4) Remove plug again finish draining oil. Install plug and tighten.

Uh, WTFO?!?!? Nobody else caught this? Are you out of your daggon mind? Good way to smoke your engine quick fast and in a hurry!

 

[Wangle]

I saw that! I sent this "tip" on to my whole family just for conversation. This reminded me of the old oil TV adds where they drained the oil and ran the engine until it seized.
I know it will be said that "this has never been a problem", but PLEASE, for all that is Holy, DON"T DO IT!!! Even a few seconds of running the engine with no oil is NOT a good idea for any reason.

 

[17limited]

Not if you want full synthetic. $90 from ford or 40-50 if you do it in your driveway. Literally takes less than 15 minutes in your own if you know what needs to come off and what can stay on

I hear you, but I happily pay 90 for full synthetic works at my local dealer and its worth the time and effort to me. To each his own, I'm too old now to be rolling around on my back on the concrete