Electrical Problems

[bigwick70]

Was wondering if anyone has seen this happen? My 1997 Eddie Bayer wont start. I had to boost it the other day and it started right up, and ran, till i went about a mile down the road and shut it off then it wouldnt start back. Not even crank. At first I thought the solenoid went out so i bridged it over from the fire wall and it started but i noticed none of the gauges are working or lights, and the battery is dead. I notice before i tryed to bridge it over to start it, all the lights and guages were on. Also when i take the hot post off the battery the engine quits. Also, im confused as to why it wont crank from the key switch and cranks fine from bridging the solenoid. Please help!!!

 

[stamp11127]

Classic sign of no output from the alternator to the battery. Usually cause is a failed alt but can also be a harness issue.
Do you have a voltmeter, battery charger and ability to read wiring diagrams?
The no start from the ignition switch is electrical, may only be a failed starter solenoid.
Don't start tossing parts yet - we need to find what failed.

If the battery is dead, how did it crank? Are you always having to jump it?

 

[bigwick70]

I do have a small voltmeter and am somewhat familar with diagrams. I usually dont have to jump start it but it sit all winter and i had to this time. It had been started after that time sitting but i had it parked due to a dead inspection sticker. It started up the same day the problem occoured, and i took it for a drive then when i shut it off it wouldnt re start. When i bridged the solenoid over it barely cranked like the battery was almost dead. I hooked the cables back up to get it to run again and when it started, thats when i noticed the dash lights, etc were not on. I'm thinking the solenoid might be stuck maybe and draining power? Does this sound right to you? Pretty sure the altenator is shot because i took off the hot terminal and the motor quit. When it is running i have no guages or lights whatsoever, but if the engine is not running the guages, interior lights, ETC, all work. What voltage should my meter read if the battery is good? It also reads amps and olms.

 

[stamp11127]

Fully charged is 12.6 v, 12.4 is 75%, 12.2 is 50%, 12.0 is 25%.
Charging voltage should be 13.8-14.1v - engine running of course.
If the solenoid was stuck closed the starter would be energized all the time - would be toast by now.

 

[bigwick70]

Fully charged is 12.6 v, 12.4 is 75%, 12.2 is 50%, 12.0 is 25%.
Charging voltage should be 13.8-14.1v - engine running of course.
If the solenoid was stuck closed the starter would be energized all the time - would be toast by now.

I hear you there on the stuck solenoid. I checked the battery and it is reading 9.6 V, on the setting 200. not running...

 

[stamp11127]

Need to charge it back up then test alt output.

 

[bigwick70]

Need to charge it back up then test alt output.

Ok, i just went and checked the lead going to the fuse link that goes to the solenoid and was getting 0... Then i went to the other side that runs to the solenoid and it read 12.6, also the hot terminal reads 12.6 while it is running. Do you know what im calling the "Fuse link" on the fire wall that connects to the solenoid and the altenator? there are 2 of them. the other one runs from the solenoid through the inside of the truck?

I put another Fully charged battery in it and when i remove the hot (Red) terminal the motor quits.

The truck was running then i tryed to turn on the headlights and the guages went crazy and it quit running. The anti theft was flickering too. The key switch wont work with the good battery either.

I really appreciate your help man. thanks

 

[stamp11127]

You need to check the voltage at the battery with the engine running. Take one reading with it at idle and another with it about half throttle.
If both show 12.6 or less take another reading with the red meter lead on the output stud on the back of the alternator and the black meter lead on the alt case. Engine should be running. Be careful of the fan with the meter leads.
Do not remove the battery while the engine is running, that is an old habit from pre electronic days. Today it is a bad idea and possibly an expensive mistake.

 

[bigwick70]

You need to check the voltage at the battery with the engine running. Take one reading with it at idle and another with it about half throttle.
If both show 12.6 or less take another reading with the red meter lead on the output stud on the back of the alternator and the black meter lead on the alt case. Engine should be running. Be careful of the fan with the meter leads.
Do not remove the battery while the engine is running, that is an old habit from pre electronic days. Today it is a bad idea and possibly an expensive mistake.

Ok i checked it from the hot post on the altenator and it read 0.07... Actually it was jumping around. It is reading everything from 3.5 to 7.5 jumping back and forth on the battery, at idle and half throttle. I noticed the anti theft is flickering too. It is the only light in the dash that works while it is running.

 

[bigwick70]

I just went through the fuses under the dash and one was blown. it was #21, a 15 amp on the diagram, (Starter Relay, Junction Box Fuse #20). Thats what it says in the Owners manual. Going to start it and see what that changes... That was the only one blown...

It blew the new fuse when i hit the key switch...