Electrical Short that isn't Blowing a Fuse

[Tim Skinner]

During the winter a squirrel made a nest in the engine compartment by the battery by the firewall, it chewed through some wires. Well it turned over just fine but wouldn't fire . so I pulled the wiring harness out repaired the broken wires (I used the same gauge wire for each strand and used shrink wrap to adhere them instead of electrical tape) it started just fine for about 15 minutes, then it hesitated like it was running out of gas well with a 1/2 tank I knew that wasn't the problem so when I went to start it back up all it did was click like a bad starter, so I trouble shot it and found out the solenoid that is bolted to the starter was bad. Ok so I replaced the starter,well the same thing occurred so I looked at the it and the solenoid was extremely hot so I started looking for a short. The first thing I noticed was a spark when I put the battery back in the vehicle so I unplugged the light under the hood thinking that was it, well the same thing happen so after a long journey of trouble shooting I discovered no fuses are blowing and the starter solenoid keeps blowing . I kinda figured it's an electrical short but I'm in sure as to what would cause this without blowing any a fuse. Any Help will be deeply appreciated I'm puzzled thank's

 

[Bedrck47]

Welcome to the forum

To be honest I am puzzled also but I wouldn't be if you informed the forum as to what year expy you have.

You mentioned that you "used shrink wrap to adhere them instead of electrical tape"
Did you just twist the wires together or did you solder them together.

Can you read and understand wiring diagrams

 

[Tim Skinner]

I twisted them together , I have a 2001 Expedition Eddie Bauer with a 5.4. I'm puzzled as to where to start what I done so far was take a test light and start pulling fuses and the light only went off when I pulled the 50 amp battery feed to the fuse box on the fire wall and I have wiring diagrams but I'm unsure as to where to start.I traced the wires going to and from the starter an they all seem to be ok and in place per the diagram.

 

[stamp11127]

If everything is wired back correctly the solenoid on the firewall is stuck in the "on state". This can be from welded contacts in the solenoid or the ignition switch is stuck on start.

The starter should also spin at this point. Since it isn't, I would check for low voltage at the starter.

Don't just twist wires together, solder then use heat shrink tubing over the splice.

 

[Tim Skinner]

I was thinking of replacing the solenoid on the firewall. I'll replace the solenoid and check the voltage. thanks for the response I'll repost when I get this far thanks

 

[stamp11127]

Only replace when proven faulty.

Do you have a meter or test light?

 

[Tim Skinner]

Yes I have both I'm not sure how to test the solenoid

 

[stamp11127]

With the battery still connected remove the small wire on the firewall mounted solenoid. Using the meter check for DC volts between this wire and ground. Should have zero volts.
Next check the two large studs on the solenoid the same way but leave them mounted. The side closest to the fender should read battery voltage while the other should read zero.

Your readings should be as follows:
0v
12+v
0v

 

[Tim Skinner]

Thanks I'll give it a shot

 

[Tim Skinner]

When I tested the small wire to a body ground I have 0 when I test it to the negative side of the battery I get 4 Volt's and when I test the solenoid prong having the smaller red wire I have zero volt and the solenoid prong having the large red wire I have zero volt - my selonied prongs are up and down

 

[stamp11127]

I've corrected this post. Compared to mine there is a harness missing that connects to the lower large stud on the solenoid.
You should not have any volts on the small wire - check it again. If you have a helper, check the voltage on the wire when the ignition switch is turned to start.

 

[Tim Skinner]

The thin red one connected to the top post comes from the starter and the thicker one connected to the bottom is going to the battery

 

[Tim Skinner]

One other thing I done just for giggles was I took the smaller wire off and kept the larger one to the bottom post on took the negative side of the battery off put it back on and still got a spark when I put it back on

 

[Bedrck47]

Attached pic is of my 01 expy Your 01 should be the same

Make sure you install the nuts otherwise your connection will be no better than twisting wires together

 

[Tim Skinner]

nice picture - will do

 

[Tim Skinner]

They are connected the one missing was the one going to the alt

 

[Bedrck47]

Now recheck your voltage reading as stamp suggested and post the results

 

[Tim Skinner]

will do

 

[Tim Skinner]

Well sorry for the long Delay (work Calls) I connected all the wires back in their respective locations and achieved the same results, this weekend when my helper is available I'll have him hold the Key in the start position and I'll be able to get and post those results

 

[stamp11127]

Once you have your helper there is one more test to perform with the meter. Battery should be fully charged.

Voltage drop test:
Meter set on dc volts
Red lead on positive post (not clamp)
Black lead on the solenoid stud that goes to starter (lower stud?)
Attemp to start the engine for 2 seconds. Observe the reading.

Reading should be .2v or less. If it is above that amount move the black lead to the other large stud and repeat the test. Let us know the values. A high reading indicates excessive resistance in the wire.