Engine oil

[Motorcity muscle]

Both my expy’s have over 100,000. Use 5w-30 and MC oil filter. Do not think adding any additives is needed or recommend.

 

[MikeWyvern0324]

You will generally see MORE consumption with a synthetic vs dino. That being said, there are some high mileage oils specially formulated to help prevent consumption. Look there.

WOW! There should be extremely little consumption via the combustion chamber. I use 5w-30 full synth with a Fram ExtraGuard Ultra-Synthetic that lasts 20,000 miles tween changes. Very limited consumption. Not even noticeable. Castrol 5w-30 is the very best out there. Pricy but worth every penny because as the bottle says, it can go 20K tween oil changes.

As I posted a little while ago, on an engine with over 100K, sometimes 75,000 miles if neglected, put a bottle of CD-2 Heavy Duty Sealer Engine Oil Stop Leak in and run for at minimum 5,000 miles. I run mine 20,000 miles and have no problems in my 5.4 Triton. If the cylinders are worn due to neglect, add Engine Restorer V8 size for 2 oil changes and the engine will have more power with less consumption.

PCV valve may need cleaning also. No venting means oil is being blown into the combustion chamber.

Is there a puff of white smoke out of the tailpipe on cold start after vehicle sat overnight?

More questions probably need to be asked.

 

[MikeWyvern0324]

Our new to us 2013 expo is coming up for an oil change. It has been using oil though. Does anyone experience oil consumption with "x" brand of oil, but not "y" brand?

Full synthetic?
Syn blend?
Real oil with all the vitamins and dinosaurs?

WOW! There should be extremely little consumption via the combustion chamber. I use 5w-30 full synth with a Fram ExtraGuard Ultra-Synthetic that lasts 20,000 miles tween changes. Very limited consumption. Not even noticeable. Castrol 5w-30 is the very best out there. Pricy but worth every penny because as the bottle says, it can go 20K tween oil changes.

As I posted a little while ago, on an engine with over 100K, sometimes 75,000 miles if neglected, put a bottle of CD-2 Heavy Duty Sealer Engine Oil Stop Leak in and run for at minimum 5,000 miles. I run mine 20,000 miles and have no problems in my 5.4 Triton. If the cylinders are worn due to neglect, add Engine Restorer V8 size for 2 oil changes and the engine will have more power with less consumption.

PCV valve may need cleaning also. No venting means oil is being blown into the combustion chamber.

Is there a puff of white smoke out of the tailpipe on cold start after vehicle sat overnight?

More questions probably need to be asked.

 

[Oh6Limited]

Used 5-20 full synthetic (Castrol) for a few years and my 06 drank a quart between oil changes. Switched back to FOMOCO Motorcraft 5-20 synthetic blend and now maybe 1/4 quart if that. 113k on the clock. I thought I was going crazy until I read this post.

 

[LokiWolf]

Used 5-20 full synthetic (Castrol) for a few years and my 06 drank a quart between oil changes. Switched back to FOMOCO Motorcraft 5-20 synthetic blend and now maybe 1/4 quart if that. 113k on the clock. I thought I was going crazy until I read this post.

Nope! The nature of synthetic is that it can get places where Dino/Semi Syn can't. It is not always the right thing to run!

 

[LokiWolf]

WOW! There should be extremely little consumption via the combustion chamber. I use 5w-30 full synth with a Fram ExtraGuard Ultra-Synthetic that lasts 20,000 miles tween changes. Very limited consumption. Not even noticeable. Castrol 5w-30 is the very best out there. Pricy but worth every penny because as the bottle says, it can go 20K tween oil changes.

As I posted a little while ago, on an engine with over 100K, sometimes 75,000 miles if neglected, put a bottle of CD-2 Heavy Duty Sealer Engine Oil Stop Leak in and run for at minimum 5,000 miles. I run mine 20,000 miles and have no problems in my 5.4 Triton. If the cylinders are worn due to neglect, add Engine Restorer V8 size for 2 oil changes and the engine will have more power with less consumption.

PCV valve may need cleaning also. No venting means oil is being blown into the combustion chamber.

Is there a puff of white smoke out of the tailpipe on cold start after vehicle sat overnight?

More questions probably need to be asked.

Running an oil designed for High Mileage engines will accomplish similar. There are additives that work in a similar way to the Stop Leak, but not the same extreme, and no extra added stuff.

 

[mr_dave]

Asking "which oil" on an automotive forum is a bit like talking about politics and religion with your family. Everyone has an opinion and they all believe they're right.

I think a big part of the issue is that there is no one-size-fits-all answer. Do you want low cost? Do you need extended change intervals? Do you live in an extreme climate? Does your truck do a lot of hauling? Do you prefer sourcing it locally? Etc. etc.

Then there is the additive discussion...

 

[LokiWolf]

Asking "which oil" on an automotive forum is a bit like talking about politics and religion with your family. Everyone has an opinion and they all believe they're right.

I think a big part of the issue is that there is no one-size-fits-all answer. Do you want low cost? Do you need extended change intervals? Do you live in an extreme climate? Does your truck do a lot of hauling? Do you prefer sourcing it locally? Etc. etc.

Then there is the additive discussion...

100% My point exactly! Synthetic is not always better...need to know your use case.

 

[Brons2]

100% My point exactly! Synthetic is not always better...need to know your use case.

Most of the oils sold as Synthetic nowadays on the shelf at Walmart or Autozone don't contain much of what we traditionally considered synthetic. E.g. Polyalphaolefin (PAO) and Ester based base oils. They're just better at refining the normal stuff using a hydrocracking process to get a base oil that performs closer to what a traditional synthetic does.

Some countries force the oil manufacturers to designate, Germany being one. The products containing mostly group III hydrocracked oils are designated "Synthetic Technology" whereas the oils that are mostly group IV (PAO) or group V (Esters) can use the full synthetic designation.

The material safety data sheet can be informative about what particular oil brand uses what particular base oils. I don't know how to decode them personally but there are oil geeks out there on sites like Bobistheoilguy.com that do.

 

[LokiWolf]

Most of the oils sold as Synthetic nowadays on the shelf at Walmart or Autozone don't contain much of what we traditionally considered synthetic. E.g. Polyalphaolefin (PAO) and Ester based base oils. They're just better at refining the normal stuff using a hydrocracking process to get a base oil that performs closer to what a traditional synthetic does.

Some countries force the oil manufacturers to designate, Germany being one. The products containing mostly group III hydrocracked oils are designated "Synthetic Technology" whereas the oils that are mostly group IV (PAO) or group V (Esters) can use the full synthetic designation.

The material safety data sheet can be informative about what particular oil brand uses what particular base oils. I don't know how to decode them personally but there are oil geeks out there on sites like Bobistheoilguy.com that do.

100%. Chemistry degree here. Wasn't going to go down that path. Bottom line, for High Mileage motors that have consumption issues Synthetic might not be the right solution. Those High mileage specific oils, are a good start.