Extended Wheel Lug Studs for Wheel Spacers?

[Expedition Dave]

Wheel Lug Studs?

Is there a common source for them?

I'd like to add some quality replacements to go with some mild spacers for nothing more than a general peace of mind.

 

[8131full]

but the question remains: why would you want wheel spacers? Especially if you go off road or tow. Lots of undue stress on the wheel bearings, etc.

Do you want extra maintenance and you want your rig to look worse?

 

[Expedition Dave]

8131, DWs and Spiderman (note my *belief* means I do not have hard Expy facts--only well-intended assumptions):

1. I am raising my truck 1.5 inches all-around at this time. I am operating under the *belief* that when you lift our particular rigs via shocks or suspension spacers, it causes the wheels to move inboard very slightly (tucking in away from the fender edge) as the A arm descends in its natural suspension arc. I *believe* this due to the design of independent suspensions, and have observed this when the truck is on the lift, as the unloaded suspension descends. I *do not know* if a mild lift of 1.5 inches causes this tuck in, or may even bow it out a bit. But we all have observed that the rear lift pulls the tire forwards towards the rear door, so there is a geometry change going on...

2. I am operating unber the *belief* that when you add slightly taller and/or wider tires, there is a slight benefit from a very mild push from the thinnest of spacers towards the fender edge (I do not want my tire edge to go past my fender lip--this is known as "tire poke").

3. I am operating off the *belief* that slightly factory taller (raised) vehicles with a new higher center of gravity will benefit on-road/off-road from widened tracks.

As a result, I want to add (hubcentric) 5mm spacers upfront and a 10mm spacer out back (the rear track is tucked in 5mm more each side than the front, so I wanted it even). The 5mm will work fine with my factory lugs, but I feel the rears with 10mm ones might benefit from a slightly extended lug to ensure a solid bite from the lugnuts (enough turns on the threads).

HOWEVER, when FORD made its considerations to the vehicle and the handling properties, I do not know if the differing tracks was intentional to give the truck better/safer handling. It could of been a cost saving measure or consideration from changing the front suspension geometry in 2018.

And as far as maintainance and looks I do not think I will have much to worry about, considering how many people here and with F150s raise there suspensions fully by 3/2 inches, add wider wheels well past their fenders, and report no additional problems. That being said, I am willing to accept the additional cost if incurred it in the next 100K + miles.

 

[DWs-TTEB]

8131, DWs and Spiderman (note my *belief* means I do not have hard Expy facts--only well-intended assumptions):

1. I am raising my truck 1.5 inches all-around at this time. I am operating under the *belief* that when you lift our particular rigs via shocks or suspension spacers, it causes the wheels to move inboard very slightly (tucking in away from the fender edge) as the A arm descends in its natural suspension arc. I *believe* this due to the design of independent suspensions, and have observed this when the truck is on the lift, as the unloaded suspension descends. I *do not know* if a mild lift of 1.5 inches causes this tuck in, or may even bow it out a bit. But we all have observed that the rear lift pulls the tire forwards towards the rear door, so there is a geometry change going on...

2. I am operating unber the *belief* that when you add slightly taller and/or wider tires, there is a slight benefit from a very mild push from the thinnest of spacers towards the fender edge (I do not want my tire edge to go past my fender lip--this is known as "tire poke").

3. I am operating off the *belief* that slightly factory taller (raised) vehicles with a new higher center of gravity will benefit on-road/off-road from widened tracks.

As a result, I want to add (hubcentric) 5mm spacers upfront and a 10mm spacer out back (the rear track is tucked in 5mm more each side than the front, so I wanted it even). The 5mm will work fine with my factory lugs, but I feel the rears with 10mm ones might benefit from a slightly extended lug to ensure a solid bite from the lugnuts (enough turns on the threads).

HOWEVER, when FORD made its considerations to the vehicle and the handling properties, I do not know if the differing tracks was intentional to give the truck better/safer handling. It could of been a cost saving measure or consideration from changing the front suspension geometry in 2018.

And as far as maintainance and looks I do not think I will have much to worry about, considering how many people here and with F150s raise there suspensions fully by 3/2 inches, add wider wheels well past their fenders, and report no additional problems. That being said, I am willing to accept the additional cost if incurred it in the next 100K + miles.

That’s a fair assessment. Let’s hear what the rest of the folks have to say on this.

 

[Lou Hamilton]

HOWEVER, when FORD made its considerations to the vehicle and the handling properties, I do not know if the differing tracks was intentional to give the truck better/safer handling. It could of been a cost saving measure or consideration from changing the front suspension geometry in 2018.

I thought I read somewhere that with the 10mm wider front track, the turning radius was considerably smaller than the last gen models. Previous models had a wider rear than front.

 

[Expedition Dave]

Lou, that could be it too, since the F450 has a wider track (than the 350) and it allows for a significantly better turn radius. It might have several benefits, to include handling, aerodynamics or all three... That being said, I may just go with 5mm front & rear in the end since I am getting very little response and with the 5mm I won't need extra studs for the rears.

 

[Lou Hamilton]

Are you swapping out your wheels in addition to the lift?

If you, the spacers may not be warranted.

I kept the same width tire (285) but my wheels went from the stock +44 offset to +12 on the wheels. They seem to have the perfect poke for me. Your idea may be to have a bit more poke, but you could accomplish that with a 295 or 12.5 width tire.

 

[Expedition Dave]

My love/hate relationship continues, so not investing anything in it big right now. Close to the last straw was drilling down on the "water forwarding depth" of a Florida rain puddle and freshly reminded of how weak this (and others) are as an off-road platform.

So I am keeping the stock wheels and ordering the 5mm wheel spacers only today. I will probably go +1 up (33.2-33.8) on a set of AT tires, but nothing wider than 12 inches if I can help it.
I'd rather listen to a dentist drill than tires rubbing and fenders flexing.

 

[Fozzy]

You should be fine. I am really considering the narrower tire as well. If one inch in tire width really makes up for a -12 wheel. And still gives you a little poke. That may be my out. I need to start a big tire, wide wheel, fully stuffed thread so we can see the real truth.


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[DWs-TTEB]

Still no rubbing to date on my setup.