My 2011 Max has new balanced tires and wheel alignment but has a slight front end vibration at all speeds when driving in 2WD, but the vibration goes away when 4WD is engaged. I replaced the vacuum check valve (YG360) for the IWE's but it didn't help......any thoughts ?
Front end vibration when in 2WD goes away when 4WD is engaged - 2011 Max
- Thread starter Blair H
- Start date
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eddytheexpy
Full Access Members
Yeah that vibration going away when putting it in 4A (or any 4wd mode) is the hallmark of an IWE issue. Do you feel it in the gas pedal and audibly hear it coming from somewhere or is it just some nondescript vibration?
I had an issue with my IWE system and it took me a little while to figure it out. it would happen to me intermittently on the highway especially when going up hill. The first time it happened it sounded like I was driving next to a pick up with an un-secured tarp in the bed but then realized I was feeling a vibration in the gas pedal and it stopped the moment I lifted my foot.
Since your situation started occurring shortly after having your tires serviced, it's a real possibility that they may have busted the vacuum hose for the IWE since those are super accessible with the tires off. who knows, they may have just accidentally knocked it slightly off the IWE or just knocked it off all together if you haven't checked it.
here's what I did to narrow it down. go to auto zone and rent one of their brake bleeder kits. turn the car on and cut the wheels totally to one side or the other so you can access the vacuum ports on the IWE (this is the lazy way, you can take off the tires if you feel you need the space) and turn the engine off. pop the vacuum hose off the ports at the top of the IWEs and slap the bleeder on those ports. if it holds a vacuum (plus you should hear it actuate and pull away from the CV axle while pulling the vacuum), the IWEs are likely good and at least not leaking which will let you continue vacuum testing. replace the hose after you test each IWE. Go up to where the check valve is and hook up the brake bleeder to the line that feeds down to your IWEs. this is where I found my leak so it was somewhere downstream of the check valve which is where I suspect yours will be if they haven't just been bumped off the vacuum ports on the IWE by the people working on your tires. I bought a vacuum hose replacement for my model (I've got a 2011 EL Limited so this one should work for you too) and replaced it in like half an hour and the problems were gone. it is recommended to replace the IWEs after you correct the issue because that noise you're hearing is the IWEs getting the tar beat out of them by the CV axles (or vice versa). if and when you're replacing them, inspect the CV axle's teeth to see if they got chewed up as well but in my experience, the IWE's are the sacrificial part and the CV axle was A-OK.
However, if you don't find the leak there, I'm not sure how to test upstream of the check valve because I don't believe that portion is a closed system. I can't speak from experience on that one because I stopped testing once I found that leak and corrected it before continuing but it solved my problem.
good luck!
I had an issue with my IWE system and it took me a little while to figure it out. it would happen to me intermittently on the highway especially when going up hill. The first time it happened it sounded like I was driving next to a pick up with an un-secured tarp in the bed but then realized I was feeling a vibration in the gas pedal and it stopped the moment I lifted my foot.
Since your situation started occurring shortly after having your tires serviced, it's a real possibility that they may have busted the vacuum hose for the IWE since those are super accessible with the tires off. who knows, they may have just accidentally knocked it slightly off the IWE or just knocked it off all together if you haven't checked it.
here's what I did to narrow it down. go to auto zone and rent one of their brake bleeder kits. turn the car on and cut the wheels totally to one side or the other so you can access the vacuum ports on the IWE (this is the lazy way, you can take off the tires if you feel you need the space) and turn the engine off. pop the vacuum hose off the ports at the top of the IWEs and slap the bleeder on those ports. if it holds a vacuum (plus you should hear it actuate and pull away from the CV axle while pulling the vacuum), the IWEs are likely good and at least not leaking which will let you continue vacuum testing. replace the hose after you test each IWE. Go up to where the check valve is and hook up the brake bleeder to the line that feeds down to your IWEs. this is where I found my leak so it was somewhere downstream of the check valve which is where I suspect yours will be if they haven't just been bumped off the vacuum ports on the IWE by the people working on your tires. I bought a vacuum hose replacement for my model (I've got a 2011 EL Limited so this one should work for you too) and replaced it in like half an hour and the problems were gone. it is recommended to replace the IWEs after you correct the issue because that noise you're hearing is the IWEs getting the tar beat out of them by the CV axles (or vice versa). if and when you're replacing them, inspect the CV axle's teeth to see if they got chewed up as well but in my experience, the IWE's are the sacrificial part and the CV axle was A-OK.
However, if you don't find the leak there, I'm not sure how to test upstream of the check valve because I don't believe that portion is a closed system. I can't speak from experience on that one because I stopped testing once I found that leak and corrected it before continuing but it solved my problem.
good luck!
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Dustin Gebhardt
Full Access Members
Perform a leakdown test on each IWE. If they both pass, then move up the line to the next component. Does the check valve allow vacuum in only one direction? Does the vauum pot (reservoir) hold vacuum with no leakage? Are all of the vacuum lines good?
For me, the vacuum line that is attached to the front crossmember was worn through and allowing the IWEs to chatter. A spliced repair and I was back in business.
At this age, I'd plan on replacing all of the vacuum lines sooner rather than later. The 3/8" line that goes to the brake booster on my '07 was shot and fully collapsing on itself, so I replaced it, and just about every other vacuum line that I could find.
For me, the vacuum line that is attached to the front crossmember was worn through and allowing the IWEs to chatter. A spliced repair and I was back in business.
At this age, I'd plan on replacing all of the vacuum lines sooner rather than later. The 3/8" line that goes to the brake booster on my '07 was shot and fully collapsing on itself, so I replaced it, and just about every other vacuum line that I could find.
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