Installed Bilstein 5100s and 4600s on my 2016. What I learned that will save you time

Discussion in '3rd Gen - 2007 - 2017' started by Black, Apr 24, 2019.

  1. Black

    Black Full Access Members

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    Last edited: Apr 28, 2019
  2. rameredit

    rameredit Member

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    What's the part number for those 5100s up front?
     
  3. Black

    Black Full Access Members

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    BIL-24-248129
     
  4. joethefordguy

    joethefordguy Full Access Members

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    very well done, sir. thanks for posting this. I just bought an 04 4x4 SSV and I have to do the front ball joints, so I want to lift it with one of the 3/2 kits, then replace the shocks. I read your other thread, i left a question there.
    thanks
    jg
     
  5. Black

    Black Full Access Members

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  6. Matt_N

    Matt_N Member

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    Do control arms and axles really need to be removed/loosened?
     
  7. Black

    Black Full Access Members

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    UCA bolts must be loosen to push the arm all the way up above the top spring cup so it is out of the way.

    The axle shaft needs to removed from the hub so you can drop the LCA al the way down to get the coil over back in. You do not need to remove the axle from the vehicle.
     
  8. Matt_N

    Matt_N Member

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    I've done shocks/struts on MANY cars.

    This is a total pain in the ass.
     
  9. Matt_N

    Matt_N Member

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    I estimate the rear bottom shock bolt is on in excess of 400 ft-lbs.

    I base this estimate on:
    - Air gun didn't budge it.
    - I weigh 200lbs and stood on a 2ft breaker bar and didn't budge it.
    - I broke my 1/2 ratchet in the process.

    This after 2 days of soaking it in PB Blaster.

    I'm 47. I've personally replaced shocks/struts on every car I've owned since 16. BMWs, Subarus, Nissans, Excursions, F250s, Jeeps, etc etc.

    This is the 1st time I am going to have to take my car to the shop to get these replaced. This is ridiculous.
     
  10. Matt_N

    Matt_N Member

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    Update: after 72 hours of soaking with PB Blaster, the bottom shock bolt FINALLY gave up.

    I really wanted to do Bilsteins, but the corrosion/deterioration was so bad on the top nut that I couldn't disassemble without destroying the top hat. Ford uses THE WORST pot metal for these parts. I punted and acquired new assembled units. Back to OE-level ride, just not the Bilstein ride I wanted. Oh well.

    Edit: I did NOT need to undo the front axle nut or tie rod. There was just enough room to get the old and new assembly in/out without doing that. But I did not do any lift, so YMMV.
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2019

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