Knocking noise 2001 EB 5.4

[Keith Ramsdell]

Hi, I have a 2001 5.4 EB with 200K, I have a knocking noise, sounds like a clunk clunk, only hear it at a idle very subtle. Engine power is fine, no codes, Local shop looked at it last week and changed out the
Alternator and AC compressor this did nothing ? They said when you removed the belt the knocking noise
completely went away, engine is strong plenty of power (normal)
would a power steering unit do this? or would a crank bearing do this ?

Thanks Keith R

 

[1955moose]

The fact that the noise went away with belt removal narrows it down to one of the items driven by belt. You'll need to unfortunately remove belt again, and spin and inspect all of them, along with idler pulley.

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[Sgt Darkness]

Could be the belt tensioner since the noise went away with the belt off......prob time to replace the tensioner. That’s what I’d do.....or get you a stenthascope, I can’t spell, and listen to the alternator, water pump, a/c compressor to see if you hear possible bad bearings on one of those.

 

[Machete]

So they threw parts at it, sold you an alternator and an ac compressor and still don’t know the problem? What’s wrong w this picture?

Find a competent mechanic.

 

[1955moose]

If it wasn't for the noise disappearing, I'd swear you've got a worn timing chain guide or 2. A stethoscope isn't a bad idea like Sgt stated, just be real careful probing around a running engine.

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[Keith Ramsdell]

I replaced the idler last year and the water pump, i have ordered a stethoscope should be here in a day or 2. i'll see how that goes
Thanks for the support i'll keep you posted

 

[SailorKane]

Was this a tick sound or a clunk sound? You described it as a clunk. Mine has a tick sound in 185k miles 2003.

 

[rjdelp7]

Leaking exhaust manifold make noise when cold. When engine warms up and metal expands, seals, sound goes away.

 

[highlandre]

Both my manifolds ended up cracking and then finally broke apart. Once they were replaced the noise and ticking (valve noise I believe) went away or at least was silenced.

 

[Sgt Darkness]

I replaced the idler last year and the water pump, i have ordered a stethoscope should be here in a day or 2. i'll see how that goes
Thanks for the support i'll keep you posted

Good deal.....the scope will allow you to hear bearing noises from any component that has bearings or listen to the valves as they open and close, etc. Just be as safe as possible, especially around the engine if it’s running, of course you no that but just made me fill better by saying it.

 

[JonnyQball79]

Any Fix to this? I also have a knocking sound that is there on start up and then goes away and then comes back when warmed up.

 

[Keith Ramsdell]

Well I have my answer to my knocking noise, i tore it down to timing chains, replaced chains,
guides, tensioner, even the oil pump. No guides were broken and the tensioners were fine. The timing marks all lined up nice (i locked down the cams) so I should have everything in place, i decided to rotate the crank 1 revolution, got about 90 degrees and it stopped dead.
worked on this for a while and no change, everything i could find pointed to a bad crank bearing locking it up. I felt the timing had NOT jumped and put it back together started it up
and it ran just as before. So i have located a shop to rebuild the engine and that's it.

Keith

 

[TobyU]

Never seen a bad crank bearing lock anything up. Even when they spin they don't give much extra resistance.

I would be rechecking the cams and dots and links etc. It turned and ran fine before you pulled it apart (just a noise) so it has to be something related to the new parts...even oil pump could do it.

I've just been through this with two friends. One has a 4.6 in TC and the other an SUV Lexus.

The TC guy had it at a guys house who was offering to rebuild it and I told him a BIG NO on that.
Just not cost effective on anything older than around a 2014+ to put a reman or rebuild at shop prices.
Best cost effective way is to buy used one with decent miles from salvage yard. Lots of them are starting to install which is a plus for labor costs and warranty depending on how they do it.
You can even put new timing set and exhaust manifold gaskets on it while it's out since it's a lot easier than if you have to do in in chassis.

The next way but far more expensive is some like one we have locally very reputable engine builder places do stock rebuilds on yours with 12 month 15K warranty.

I checked back in 2002 and for a 97 4.6 rebuild was about 1800 total.
A reman form the parts store with my fairly good discount was right at 1400.00

For 400.00 I wasn't getting my hands dirty. I ended up not needed an engine and fixed it myself for $20.

 

[stamp11127]

Too late now, what ever was interfering with the crankshaft rotation isn't any more.

 

[1955moose]

Should be a nice souvenir in the pan somewhere.

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