Let's See Those Lifted / Big Tire Gen 4s!!

[JerseyMax19]

Looking for some wisdom from the group. I've been all through this thread and this is my first time posting...

I have a 2019 MAX XLT. Just had the Expy Bilstiens (1.6 front/1.5 rear) installed. I have the stock 20" wheels, which I believe are a 44 offset based on all I've read.

What is the biggest tire I can put on the stock 20's without spacers?

What is the biggest 17 or 18 tire that will go on an aftermarket wheel with a 12 to 18 offset?

I'd like too get a flush look and the biggest tire that will go. I like the Raptor 17's, but have heard that there can be caliper clearance issues.

Anyway, any and all advice and recommendations would be most appreciated. If you have a similar setup it would be great to see a pic or two.

Thanks for reading!

Update - I found a set of Raptor takeoffs, and had them wrapped in Nitto Recon Grapplers, 295/70/17. Ride is far superior to stock, no rubbing anywhere...

 

[SD_Timberline]

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vehicle has around 250 miles on it and just got it back from the shop. 295/70/18 BFG KO3s and King Suspension. No lift, going for function over looks. Baja Designs bar behind grill.View attachment 83899

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Ranger22 great look! So good, I have to say I want to do something similar since I have the same truck. Can you post some more details on the light bar? I fabricated one with fogs and a bar, but am curious how that one is mounted.

 

[JimW]

I had the same shocks setup on my 2018. If I decide to go with the F150 2wd shocks on my 2024, what ring would you suggest to achieve the same amount of lift?

Finally got around to completing the lift.

Front: Bilstein 5100 F-150 4x4 bottom ring (24-248129).
Rear: Bilstein 5100 Expedition shock top ring (24-285063).
UCA: JBA (https://jbaoffroad.com/jba-upper-control-arms-for-ford-f150-2004-2020)
LCA: SPC HD Raptor Alignment Cams 86252 x2
Wheels: Icon Vehicle Dynamics Compression 17x8.5 ET +6.
Tires: Goodyear Wrangler Territory 315/70R17 (C Load / 34.4"OD x 12.7" / 52 lbs)

Does it poke? Yes a little.
Does it rub? Surprisingly no. Have caster alignment pushed a bit forward. I might be able to reinstall the WeatherTech mud flaps that I took off just before install - *Edit* - They still won't work with the sweep.

The UCAs are just touching the springs at full droop. The CV boot will also slightly rub LCA at full droop as well. Given collapsed and extended lengths of these shocks vs the 2wd F-150 version or Expedition shocks, I would possibly explore the 2wd F150 version if there is a next time as to not over extend the components. Main thing is the half-shaft CV doesn't have any bind (been there before in past builds).

Rear end still looks good to me. The rear axle pull towards the front is actually not that bad (to me). So I'll also probably forgo the RC arm kit. A more aggressive lift (2" and more) with either spacers alone or combo'd will pull it to where I'd need that.

Rides very good. Not harsh or floaty. As comfortable (to me) as the stock setup with more planted feeling. I already have the HD tow pkg which I can say have different springs and struts than non, so maybe that already set the bar of what to expect. I love the look and stance that I got from this setup with the way the tires fill the wheel wells. Truck looks like it now lives up to it's name.

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[HILLY]

I had the same shocks setup on my 2018. If I decide to go with the F150 2wd shocks on my 2024, what ring would you suggest to achieve the same amount of lift?

That I can't say for sure. I don't think many have done any R&D with that strut. I'd be interested to know myself in the future.

If it were me going blind on this, based on the closeness of the shock dimension to the Expedition, I'd probably go clip #4.

 

[ranger22]

Ranger22 great look! So good, I have to say I want to do something similar since I have the same truck. Can you post some more details on the light bar? I fabricated one with fogs and a bar, but am curious how that one is mounted.

It’s not easy to show them once installed, but it’s a simple “L” bracket on each side.

 

[JimW]

I'm going to have Bilstein's installed on my 24 next week.
F150 4wd front and Expedition rear with the Rough Country trailing arms.
I had the same setup on my 18.

I see some people installing the UCA in the front. Is this really necessary?
I never had any issues with my 18 without them.
What are the real benefits of the aftermarket UCA besides looking cool, which they do.

 

[SilverStealth]

I'm going to have Bilstein's installed on my 24 next week.
F150 4wd front and Expedition rear with the Rough Country trailing arms.
I had the same setup on my 18.

I see some people installing the UCA in the front. Is this really necessary?
I never had any issues with my 18 without them.
What are the real benefits of the aftermarket UCA besides looking cool, which they do.

Aftermarket UCAs provide more angle (supposedly) than the OEM, thereby preventing ball joint issues and easing maintenance (if they have grease fittings).

 

[Beachbumberry]

No lift, no spacers yet. Planning on either the 3/2 or the bilstein 5100's. Factory raptor with brand new 315/70r17 (~34.5) Goodyear Wrangler Territory M/T (Sasquatch tire). So far, so good, ride is even better than before and a nice step up into it over the original FX4 rims and tires. just finished 3d printing some center cap spacers so I didn't have to cut the stubs. Only rub i have is back of the drivers side at full left lock it just kisses the frame.

On the list is the lift, replacing the running boards with raptor take offs, bajaforged bumper, and raptor style fender flares (I test fit f150 flares on it, they do fit with minimal modification beyond cutting the rears for the doors)

 

[HILLY]

No lift, no spacers yet. Planning on either the 3/2 or the bilstein 5100's. Factory raptor with brand new 315/70r17 (~34.5) Goodyear Wrangler Territory M/T (Sasquatch tire). So far, so good, ride is even better than before and a nice step up into it over the original FX4 rims and tires. just finished 3d printing some center cap spacers so I didn't have to cut the stubs. Only rub i have is back of the drivers side at full left lock it just kisses the frame.

On the list is the lift, replacing the running boards with raptor take offs, bajaforged bumper, and raptor style fender flares (I test fit f150 flares on it, they do fit with minimal modification beyond cutting the rears for the doors)
View attachment 85337

Looking forward to see your other plans.

Looking at the front blacked out grille... Plastidip, or some other method?

 

[Beachbumberry]

Looking forward to see your other plans.

Looking at the front blacked out grille... Plastidip, or some other method?

Thanks! If I lived anywhere that I could justify the work or money by being able to use it, I'd do the full raptor front end swap. But it's too expensive for something in an area like mine that the FX4 more than meets the need.

I plasti-dipped (hyperdip brand) 2 years ago, right after we bought it, but its needing a clean up. I think I'm going to pull it all the way off, mask the top and bottom chrome bands that line up with the bands in the headlights and actually paint it. And the back chrome band on the tailgate

 

[TheOnlyDiaperBoy]

dang! Nice lookin! all of em! wish i was allowed but its the wifes and she already said NOPE.

 

[GixxerJasen]

You'll need to etch or do something to the chrome to get the paint to stick well enough. I had some chrome professionally painted on the front of my car and it still chipped and looked awful. Wrapping would be better, seems to stick better and holds up better over time.

 

[Beachbumberry]

You'll need to etch or do something to the chrome to get the paint to stick well enough. I had some chrome professionally painted on the front of my car and it still chipped and looked awful. Wrapping would be better, seems to stick better and holds up better over time.

we have a commercial size vinyl cutter so that may be something. Otherwise i'll sand it all down or chemically etch it

 

[HILLY]

I'll admit I'm a little scared to modify the grille (>$1600) and back hatch trim (>$600) due to what the ridiculous replacement costs are (for OEM), but I've thought about soaking these pieces in purple degreaser to "melt" off the chrome and refinish them in black.

I had thought about grabbing a rear Stealth Edition tailgate applique (KL1Z7843400AA), but the price is just ridiculous to me.

This guy does the purple power method when modifying the headlights for his retrofit project, which I wouldn't mind doing as well to black out the housings.

Separating Permaseal Tundra Headlights and Step-By-Step Chrome Delete | Tundra Retrofit part 1!

Wanna see what we recommend for your next lighting build? Our website makes it easy to search by Year, Make and Model here: https://www.theretrofitsource.com...

youtu.be

 

[GixxerJasen]

we have a commercial size vinyl cutter in Waco.

HELLO new friend!

 

[Beachbumberry]

I'll admit I'm a little scared to modify the grille (>$1600) and back hatch trim (>$600) due to what the ridiculous replacement costs are (for OEM), but I've thought about soaking these pieces in purple degreaser to "melt" off the chrome and refinish them in black.

I had thought about grabbing a rear Stealth Edition tailgate applique (KL1Z7843400AA), but the price is just ridiculous to me.

This guy does the purple power method when modifying the headlights for his retrofit project, which I wouldn't mind doing as well to black out the housings.

Separating Permaseal Tundra Headlights and Step-By-Step Chrome Delete | Tundra Retrofit part 1!

Wanna see what we recommend for your next lighting build? Our website makes it easy to search by Year, Make and Model here: https://www.theretrofitsource.com...

youtu.be

I got the suggestion of using easy off oven cleaner and a coworker that sandblasts and hydrodips that could do it. But then I took a piece of vinyl to see if I could wrap the negative spaces well. Pretty pleased for 30 seconds of effort with a heat gun, no prep, and no squeegee. Probably going to try wrapping it first before permanent methods.

 

[Beachbumberry]

HELLO new friend!

I can do up to 2 foot wide by indefinite lengths. I’m not really sure well versed in it, my wife uses it to make stencils for stained glass so she’s a lot better with it than I am.

 

[HILLY]

I got the suggestion of using easy off oven cleaner and a coworker that sandblasts and hydrodips that could do it. But then I took a piece of vinyl to see if I could wrap the negative spaces well. Pretty pleased for 30 seconds of effort with a heat gun, no prep, and no squeegee. Probably going to try wrapping it first before permanent methods.

I vinyl wrapped my window mouldings and the hatch applique. Happy with the results especially for my first time. The lettering is a little tricky and I have some air pockets that I struggled to get to rest well.

 

[Beachbumberry]

I vinyl wrapped my window mouldings and the hatch applique. Happy with the results especially for my first time. The lettering is a little tricky and I have some pockets that I struggled to get to rest well.View attachment 85342

This looks fantastic! Did you use the one sold on Amazon or just cut your own?

 

[HILLY]

This looks fantastic! Did you use the one sold on Amazon or just cut your own?

Window trim:

Amazon.com

Tailgate:

Amazon.com

The VVivid I've heard is a hard brand to work with. I couldn't find a reasonably priced roll of the 3M 2080 to use. The trim piece is just over 6' long and even though I know it's stretched during install, I'm not looking to drop that kind of change on a mistake.