Just the other day I had multiple issues pop up. heat/cooled seats stopped working(switches do nothing), auto headlights stopped working, power locks fail to automatically lock, the door ajar indicator fails to display when any door or hatch is open. courtesy lights fail to come on when door is unlocked or opened. the radio started working after a year and a half vacation. i took the fuse panel out and tested all fuses and checked for cracked solder joints. im leaning towards the smart junction box, but wasnt sure if that had any affect on the seats. its a 03 eddie bauer expedition. thanks.
Multiple Issues
- Thread starter trhymers
- Start date
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bedrck46
get yourself a service manual
Ford workshop manual on DVD. Can be obtained from seller "morpheousking" on e-bay. Cost about $15.00 Much better than Clymer, Haynes or Chilton and also includes wiring diagrams
Don't waste your money on a Clymer, Haynes or Chilton Manual.
It is well worth the $15.00 just make sure you get the DVD for your year as the seller has different DVD's for different years
Ford workshop manual on DVD. Can be obtained from seller "morpheousking" on e-bay. Cost about $15.00 Much better than Clymer, Haynes or Chilton and also includes wiring diagrams
Don't waste your money on a Clymer, Haynes or Chilton Manual.
It is well worth the $15.00 just make sure you get the DVD for your year as the seller has different DVD's for different years
B
bedrck46
Possible loss of power in one of the circuits that go thru the ign switch
stamp11127
Full Access Members
Hey bedrck46, do the 2nd gens have the GEM? I'd look through "my" diagrams but I'm currently installing flooring in the computer room and it is a mess. If it does it sounds like he may have a GEM issue.
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bedrck46
No GEM in the second Gen's
I looked at the prints and his issues and many of those issues get power thru the Ign switch
I looked at the prints and his issues and many of those issues get power thru the Ign switch
now the back wiper stopped working. it still sprays fluid. and today with our wonderful minneapolis snow, i switched it into auto 4x4, and it didnt seem to ever want to engage. im thinking the fuse panel with so many unrelated failures. but the newest version is around $280, so i may just wait till it doesnt start at all.
i swapped out the fuse box, and no change. am thinking its in the PCM. i have spent hours going over the wiring diagrams to find a common tie, but that seems to be the only one now. going to bring it in tomorrow for the $95 diag from ford to see if they can confirm or pinpoint the exact issue.
i got the dvd manual, where on the diags are you seeing feeds from the ignition switch? my eyes got buggy from spending hours looking through them.
i got the dvd manual, where on the diags are you seeing feeds from the ignition switch? my eyes got buggy from spending hours looking through them.
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B
bedrck46
Look in the power distribution pages 13-14, 13-15, 13-16
stamp11127
Full Access Members
Ask yourself this, why would the powertrain control module have control over the seats?
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bedrck46
for power seats check fuse 108 and 109 also check the fuse with a meter not by looking at it also check fuse 102 this is the fuse that feeds some circuits through the Ign. switch
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i know fuses are good i had removed them all and tested. but i am getting the over all same issues with the new fuse box. so i know the fuse box and fuses are not the issue. i checked the ground # 200/201??? by the box and it reads out good.
B
bedrck46
look at print 13-14 you will see that power comes into fuses 102 and goes thru the Ign. switch and comes out on lines A and B on page 13-15 and also comes out on Line C page 13-16
Now put the key in and turn it to the run position then pull fuse 1 and check the fuse terminals to see if you have 12 volts You should only have 12 Volts on one side of the fuse socket Page 13-15
Then do the same for fuse 13 and 14 on page 13-16
Then post the results
Now put the key in and turn it to the run position then pull fuse 1 and check the fuse terminals to see if you have 12 volts You should only have 12 Volts on one side of the fuse socket Page 13-15
Then do the same for fuse 13 and 14 on page 13-16
Then post the results
B
bedrck46
also check fuse 15-15 and 18, pull fuse key in run position and check fuse terminals for power 12 volts
stamp11127
Full Access Members
Here is some electrical FYI:
Testing fuses - no need to pull the ato type of fuse. There are little test points on top of each fuse. One side is the power in the other is power out. Just hit each point with one of the probes and you know instantly. Makes for quick testing with a test light or dvm.
Some circuits are hot at all times while others are hot in run.
trhymers - What is your electrical diagnosis background? Once we know we can tailor the dialog accordingly. Words of wisdom for you - don't throw parts at the problem. Diagnose it and prove the part has failed before spending money. If you don't have a test light, get one. Same goes for the dvm - get a cheap one if money is tight.
Testing fuses - no need to pull the ato type of fuse. There are little test points on top of each fuse. One side is the power in the other is power out. Just hit each point with one of the probes and you know instantly. Makes for quick testing with a test light or dvm.
Some circuits are hot at all times while others are hot in run.
trhymers - What is your electrical diagnosis background? Once we know we can tailor the dialog accordingly. Words of wisdom for you - don't throw parts at the problem. Diagnose it and prove the part has failed before spending money. If you don't have a test light, get one. Same goes for the dvm - get a cheap one if money is tight.
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i have a fluke. i also have a fuse tester. so with key on i got 11.8 volts across fuses 1, 13-16, 18. i touched the lead to test points on top of the fuses. which shows the fuses are good.
i get impatient and so i throw money at things.
i get impatient and so i throw money at things.
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stamp11127
Full Access Members
How are you getting a voltage reading when you pull the fuse?
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