Multiple Radiator replacements
- Thread starter case2001
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stamp11127
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I think the system pressure is at 16psi. Anything above it while running would indicate a possible engine problem.
The pressure increases once the engine is shut off, they should see what it rises to then also.
The pressure increases once the engine is shut off, they should see what it rises to then also.
Your right the pressure cap is 16 psi. I don't understand how it could be over pressurizing yet have leaks occurring at the same area of each new radiator. If it is pressure wouldn't it be differing failure points in the coolant system?
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stamp11127
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You would think that it would leak at various points unless one China manufacturer is making the radiators under different brand names. Or there is a design flaw and just happens to be the weakest point.
Look at the fan shroud to see if the fan blade has been rubbing against it. If it has it may mean a motor mount is shot.
What kind of coolant are you using? Some are very unfriendly compared to the old green coolant.
Look at the fan shroud to see if the fan blade has been rubbing against it. If it has it may mean a motor mount is shot.
What kind of coolant are you using? Some are very unfriendly compared to the old green coolant.
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stamp11127
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That rules out a coolant issue then...
Check the coolant drain knob also - they usually have a chitty o-ring that fails just by looking at it.
Check the coolant drain knob also - they usually have a chitty o-ring that fails just by looking at it.
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Ok new radiator in. Replaced all mounts. The old ones didn't break when removed but they were pretty hard. Leak was up high near radiator inlet from block/thermostat at seam. One thing I did notice was the side skirting that protects the condenser and radiator was rolled in on both sides in so the seams were covered and not getting any air flow. Not sure if that makes any difference. Will keep thread up to date
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Ok no problems so far with the new radiator and the new mounts. I realized when I put this one that I had filled the first one incorrectly. On the first one I filled the degas bottle all the way and then kept squeezing the upper hose drawing more fluid into the system. Instead of simply filling the degas bottle to the full cold mark and then running it with the degas bottle open until at normal operating temperature. I am not sure if that makes any difference though.
I bought a Mitty Vac and checked my system for leaks cold and there are none cold. The system holds pressure. In fact when, I feel the upper hose with the Mity Vac pressuring the system to 13lbs, I know that my system is not even getting to more to 13lbs when driving on the interstate because the upper hose is not as firm.
In the morning I am going to start the truck with the Mitty Vac in place to watch pressure rise.
I rechecked for exhaust gasses in the radiator system with the engine warm and running. It was negative again.
The engine never ran or runs hot. Does not lose antifreeze. Is strong. I guess it is looking more like it was the rubber mounts binding up. I do notice the radiator is more centered in the oval grommets on the top..
Thanks for everyones help. Last radiator failed in 6 months, so I am 2 months in. We will see.
I bought a Mitty Vac and checked my system for leaks cold and there are none cold. The system holds pressure. In fact when, I feel the upper hose with the Mity Vac pressuring the system to 13lbs, I know that my system is not even getting to more to 13lbs when driving on the interstate because the upper hose is not as firm.
In the morning I am going to start the truck with the Mitty Vac in place to watch pressure rise.
I rechecked for exhaust gasses in the radiator system with the engine warm and running. It was negative again.
The engine never ran or runs hot. Does not lose antifreeze. Is strong. I guess it is looking more like it was the rubber mounts binding up. I do notice the radiator is more centered in the oval grommets on the top..
Thanks for everyones help. Last radiator failed in 6 months, so I am 2 months in. We will see.
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98EXPnSRQ
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It sure sounds like it. Maybe the mounting pads are not aligned flat and that is putting some stress on the radiator when it is tightened down. Has this truck been in an accident in the front end that would knock things out of spec?
stamp11127
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How much slop is in the rad mounting? Mine has a little freeplay in it.
It is really firm. I can move the radiator about 1/16 of an inch if I really pull on it. But very little. I am wondering if that could be the issue. I am thinking about loosing the mounts a little to see if that changes anything. I don't see how it would hurt.
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stamp11127
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Just for sheets and giggles, what type of clamp are you using on the upper radiator hose - factory spring or screw type?
How old is the upper hose?
Have you pressure tested the system yourself?
How old is the upper hose?
Have you pressure tested the system yourself?
Ok going to change the radiator this weekend. Again checked for electrolysis 0.02 volts both with ignition on and off and with engine running. Also check AC and 0.01 volts.
I am considering changing antifreeze to Zerex brand instead of Prestone. Any thoughts?
Oh and my front heater core is clogged so I am going to change it as well. I thought this would be a good time to change as the system will be complete flushed.
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I am considering changing antifreeze to Zerex brand instead of Prestone. Any thoughts?
Oh and my front heater core is clogged so I am going to change it as well. I thought this would be a good time to change as the system will be complete flushed.
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