No power going Up Hill???

[Woodrow34]

This is my first Expedition... 2003 4.6L XLT w/140000

Driving up to Tahoe this weekend, during the hills climbs I would lose all power. My tranny would shift and the engine roaring at 4000rpm with the pedal to the floor. (Uhaul trucks passing me!)

Check engine light blinking at me only when going up.

Now getting on highway I have to baby it up to speed. If I gas it, I get a hesitation, blinking engine light and NO power.

Any ideas?

 

[tmajikman]

This is my first Expedition... 2003 4.6L XLT w/140000

Driving up to Tahoe this weekend, during the hills climbs I would lose all power. My tranny would shift and the engine roaring at 4000rpm with the pedal to the floor. (Uhaul trucks passing me!)

Check engine light blinking at me only when going up.

Now getting on highway I have to baby it up to speed. If I gas it, I get a hesitation, blinking engine light and NO power.

Any ideas?

First take it to Autozone or one of the auto stores that offer free obdII code testing, make sure you write down any and all codes, let us know the codes, then we can help you figure out what the possible solution is.
A bad TPS sensor can give you a bad day, but it could even be a vauum line or the elbow at the back of the intake. Get the codes first tho, it will save you money.

 

[tonydiv]

He's in California, those stores probably won't scan it for free.

But don't worry, obd readers can be had for under $50

Also remember, it's a 4.6 so you aren't going to have a whole lot of power to begin with.

 

[panda24619]

the 4.6 is a stong motor. and in cali you cant borrow them any more. had to buy one years ago. still works great! just buy one so you have it. works on all makes and models. cost i think $65 with tax and everything. dont remember. just get one that says the code name too. not just the code number. and then you have super fancy ones that say what the problem is where its located and how to fix it. but those are costly.

 

[Woodrow34]

Thanks Guys,
Even though in CA, I think there might be one free thing left! Either way I will get the codes and post them soon.

I know its the 4.6 but literally a Uhaul truck passed me, its shouldn't be that bad, Right?

 

[tmajikman]

Thanks Guys,
Even though in CA, I think there might be one free thing left! Either way I will get the codes and post them soon.

I know its the 4.6 but literally a Uhaul truck passed me, its shouldn't be that bad, Right?

No it should not be that bad at all, unlless the uhaul had a bad ass built motor, it could be that you simply need to buy a can of mass air flow sensor cleaner and clean your sensor, whats the mileage and when was a tune up done?

Btw, i have the better pi 5.4 motor with a custom tune, and I think my motor could use some more power, but that is irrelevant (sp?)

 

[Racenut]

This is my first Expedition... 2003 4.6L XLT w/140000

Driving up to Tahoe this weekend, during the hills climbs I would lose all power. My tranny would shift and the engine roaring at 4000rpm with the pedal to the floor. (Uhaul trucks passing me!)

Check engine light blinking at me only when going up.

Now getting on highway I have to baby it up to speed. If I gas it, I get a hesitation, blinking engine light and NO power.

Any ideas?

Definatley check the codes but the part about the check engine light flashing usually states that it has detected a missfire in one or more cylinders. With 140k on the clock if a tune up has not been done it could be that you have a COP that is failing or a bad plug or even a combo of multiple issues.

 

[Woodrow34]

Just bought the truck 2 weeks ago. Don't know anything about it
140k on it.
I need to start working on it to save some $$$.
Do I just get MAF cleaner at auto parts store? Fairly straight forward procedure?
Sorry to be such a rookie any help would be great.
What about this Gotts Mod I am reading about recommended after I get it running right.

 

[Woodrow34]

Ok the moment you have all been waiting for... Well maybe not really but here is what the scan pulled.

P030 - Cat system efficiency Bank 2
P0457 - Evap (fuel Cap)
P0171 - System too lien Bank 1
C0303
P0600 - CAN Data bus malfunction

Any help is greatly appreciated

 

[99 Expy]

the 4.6 is a stong motor. and in cali you cant borrow them any more. had to buy one years ago. still works great! just buy one so you have it. works on all makes and models. cost i think $65 with tax and everything. dont remember. just get one that says the code name too. not just the code number. and then you have super fancy ones that say what the problem is where its located and how to fix it. but those are costly.

The 4.6 is a nice motor. .. in a mustang. I personally think it is a joke to put it in a 2 1/2 ton truck when the 5.4 is available. My 4.6 is very reliable and have never had any major problems, but at 7000 feet, it still gets around fine, but is working at some high rpms. Some forced induction would be nice.

 

[tmajikman]

Ok the moment you have all been waiting for... Well maybe not really but here is what the scan pulled.

P030 - Cat system efficiency Bank 2
P0457 - Evap (fuel Cap)
P0171 - System too lien Bank 1
C0303
P0600 - CAN Data bus malfunction

Any help is greatly appreciated

Not completely sure, you will need to do some research on your codes, but being lien is dangerous P0171, Do a tune up first, p030 tells me either you have a bad 02 sensor, or a partially or plugged cat convertor, p0457, replace your fuel cap or your charcoal canister may have some issue. not sure on c0303 or p0600, just do not know what either one of those codes deal with.

 

[Reconracer]

Make sure the speed sensor is connected to the tranny. Or could possibly be PCM issue. Like someone previously mentioned, clean your MAF. Lean code could also be a MAF issue, but if not, most lean conditions are from vacuum leaks.

 

[Woodrow34]

Guys thanks for the info and the help! Definitely a rookie at this so I appreciate all the help!

 

[Racenut]

Ok the moment you have all been waiting for... Well maybe not really but here is what the scan pulled.

P030 - Cat system efficiency Bank 2
P0457 - Evap (fuel Cap)
P0171 - System too lien Bank 1
C0303
P0600 - CAN Data bus malfunction

Any help is greatly appreciated

Are you sure that 4th code was a C0303 or was it a P0303, because I can not find a C0303 obd2 code.

But a P0303 is a code for Cylinder #3 Misfire -

A P0303 code means that the the car's computer has detected that one of the engine's cylinders is not firing properly. In this case it's cylinder #3.

Symptoms may include:
1. The engine may be harder to start
2. The engine may stumble / stumble, and/or hesitate
3. Other symptoms may also be present

A code P0303 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

Faulty spark plug or wire
Faulty coil pack
Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
Faulty fuel injector
Burned exhaust valve
Faulty catalytic converter(s)


This would make your check engine light flash while the engine is under a load ( ie: hard accelerating to freeway speed, going up a hill or incline) due to week spark from either a week coil that is failing or a bad plug.

Now for your P030 - Did you mean P0430 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2). Because a P0030 would be - HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

For a P0430 - Basically this means that the oxygen sensor downstream of the catalytic converter on bank 2 (Ford = Drivers Side) is detecting that the converter is not working as efficiently as it should be (according to specs).

A code P0430 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
1. The catalytic converter is no longer functioning properly.
2. An oxygen sensor is not reading (functioning) properly.
3. There is an exhaust leak pulling oxygen into the system.


Now for your P0457 -

P0457 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected

This could be a fuel cap, but it could also be from your charcol canister, purge control valve, system vent control solenoid, system pressure sensor or any piping in between any of these items.

Your P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1)

Could be your MAF sensor as stated before, if you have an after market air cleaner (ie: K&N, Spectre, or Air Raid ) that has to be oiled there could be oil build up on the MAF due to over oiling. I always like to clean my MAF when I change the motor oil it is easy to do and helps with fuel economy.

It could also be related to this:

http://expeditionforum.com/showthread.php?t=4913

Your P0600 Serial Communication Link Malfunction - usually has to do with a comunication problem between your ECM (Engine Control Module), PCM (Power Contol Module), or your BCM (Body Control Module). Sometimes a couple of these modules can be in one case, but other times they are spread thru out the vehicle. Your Ford dealer could do the diagnostic on this one.

Hope this helps out some!

 

[panda24619]

damn your good with codes! haha i wish i was. and yeah 4.6 is a good motor in a mustang. but it also has forged internals. you can add a lot of power to it and not worry as bad. super charger turbo chargers or both and dont have to worry about using to much boost.

 

[Woodrow34]

OK so I have been looking up Catalytic converters online. Why can I only find 1 or 2 cats that are CA legal?
Is it because of smogging issues (it wont pass) or for some other reason. Someone said just have shipped to NV and pick it up there? Thats possible but if its not going to smog then not gong to work

Any info

 

[Woodrow34]

OK so I looked for the PCV elbow could not locate it. Anymore insight as to where that might be found in a 2003.

What is and where is the charcoal canister?

Are there easy steps to elimate some of the possibilties you gave me?
Faulty spark plug or wire
Faulty coil pack
Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
Faulty fuel injector
Burned exhaust valve
Faulty catalytic converter(s)

I noticed some water dripping from a seam in muffler this morning could that have any implications towards my issues?

Thanks again gentlemen

 

[tmajikman]

OK so I looked for the PCV elbow could not locate it. Anymore insight as to where that might be found in a 2003.

What is and where is the charcoal canister?

Are there easy steps to elimate some of the possibilties you gave me?
Faulty spark plug or wire
Faulty coil pack
Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
Faulty fuel injector
Burned exhaust valve
Faulty catalytic converter(s)

I noticed some water dripping from a seam in muffler this morning could that have any implications towards my issues?

Thanks again gentlemen

Plugs are done with a tune up, if you are mechanically inclined or not, its not too terrible of a job, get the proper gap and a feeler gage, plus some anti seize and boot lube from the auto store, number 4 & 8 are kind of a pain.

CoPs or coils are easier than the plugs to replace, get all 8 from ebay for $100 and change them all and be done with it, same with the injectors if you have a leaking injector, just a few bolts and you pull the fuel rail assembly off and the electrical connector. Again, do your plugs and find the bad CoP before doing the fuel injectors.

o2 sensors are very easy to do as well.

Cat convertor, either get a high flo set up, or take it to an exhasut shop, that needs to be welded in.

Burned valve, you would have to pull the head off and have the valve ot valves changed, pricey.

Muffler leaking water is just condensation, no worries.

Do the tune up, CoPs and maybe your o2 sensor(s) first, make sure you look over the vacuum lines for holes or to see if they are collapsed before spending any big money on the other items.

To see the elbow on the back of the intake, pull the plastic cover that is over the intake, on the 5.4, it easier if you also pull the Idle Air Control valve.

 

[Woodrow34]

Updated info

OK so I spent 4hrs yesterday with the mechanic from the place I got the truck trying to solve this problem.
He was very helpful and had a much better CAN scan then the other guy, But this is where I'm at now.

His scanner was saying too lean and too rich all at the same time, misfire in #6 and that I'm an idiot and didn't know how to put my gas cap on correctly.

So now I have learned how to tighten my gas cap correctly

A tune up was done on the vehicle before I bought it (saw the invoice) so he was unconvinced that the cylinders where misfiring.

Cleaned the MAF cleared the codes and went for a drive. First climb I approached Blinking CEL no power and stumbling. Went back ran more codes now it was saying P0300 which is all cylinders misfiring and Too Lean. Something about running at -22

Ok so I have a vacuum leak.
He went through all the hoses and PCV elbow and could not find anything.
Cleared the codes and taped of the EGR and went for a drive.
Same hill same results. Codes picked up the EGR disconnect and the Vacuum leak again.

His diagnosis was 1 of 2 things maybe both.
1) Some diaphragm at the back of the manifold where the vacuum hoses merge.
2) A vacuum hose that leads to the transmission

Has anyone encountered this issues? He said that the truck needed to be in the air to check the transmission hose. Anybody a different take on that?

One more question... How do I clean my K&N filter? It looks like the gotts mod have been done how can I tell for sure?

Ok that was two but you guys are wicked helpful

Thanks again!

 

[tmajikman]

OK so I spent 4hrs yesterday with the mechanic from the place I got the truck trying to solve this problem.
He was very helpful and had a much better CAN scan then the other guy, But this is where I'm at now.

His scanner was saying too lean and too rich all at the same time, misfire in #6 and that I'm an idiot and didn't know how to put my gas cap on correctly.

So now I have learned how to tighten my gas cap correctly

A tune up was done on the vehicle before I bought it (saw the invoice) so he was unconvinced that the cylinders where misfiring.

Cleaned the MAF cleared the codes and went for a drive. First climb I approached Blinking CEL no power and stumbling. Went back ran more codes now it was saying P0300 which is all cylinders misfiring and Too Lean. Something about running at -22

Ok so I have a vacuum leak.
He went through all the hoses and PCV elbow and could not find anything.
Cleared the codes and taped of the EGR and went for a drive.
Same hill same results. Codes picked up the EGR disconnect and the Vacuum leak again.

His diagnosis was 1 of 2 things maybe both.
1) Some diaphragm at the back of the manifold where the vacuum hoses merge.
2) A vacuum hose that leads to the transmission

Has anyone encountered this issues? He said that the truck needed to be in the air to check the transmission hose. Anybody a different take on that?

One more question... How do I clean my K&N filter? It looks like the gotts mod have been done how can I tell for sure?

Ok that was two but you guys are wicked helpful

Thanks again!

To clean the K&N filter, go to any of the major auto chains, most carry the K&N type of filters, ask for the air filter cleaning kit, it will come with a cleaner and an oil to re-oil the filter, DO NOT over oil the filter because it will mess up the reading with the mass air flow sensor, just follow the directions on the box, I just spray the cleaner on the filter after I remove any large build up, let it soak for 10 minutes and just rinse it out with cold water, let it dry, and spray a light coat of oil on it.

As for the trans, 2wd you may need to jack the truck up, preferably with a hydraulic jack, but you should be able to crawl up in there and follow the vacuum lines easily enough, you may have to get in an odd position, but its not terrible, try to do it with the truck cold, between the exhasut and the trans being very hot, its just best, look over the lines, if you don't see anything, its cool to run the truck and you maybe able to hear where the leak is coming from.

I will also say, if at all possible, see if the truck can be put back to stock, if there is a custom tune, that is not right, it can be very possible that it could be causing alot of issues, and if it is set back to factory, you can diagnose sensor and perameters better as well. Good luck, and let us know what happens. btw, none my vacuum hoses were broke or split, but almost all of mine were collapsed, which is not as easy to see, I had to actually pull several of my vacuum hoses off to see that there was a deeper prblem.