2005 Expedition 2wd. Hit a deer last night. Damage to passenger side front end. No engine compartment damage. No fluid leaks or airbags. Vehicle remained running then the light began to dim and brighten continuous for about 3 miles. Then the vehicle shut off and will not turn over. Will not shift out of park and has a clicking from the fuse panel. The electrical system including battery is intact. No obvious broken wires only busted bulbs.Any ideas to get this running? Thanks
Not start no turn over after deer collision
- Thread starter Stick4503
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Hamfisted
Full Access Members
Did you try jumping the battery already ? Are your battery cables in good shape ? If no luck, try swapping the PCM relay with one of the other ones there in the fusebox.
Your fuse box relays should look like this ....
Your fuse box relays should look like this ....
Last edited:
stamp11127
Full Access Members
Welcome to the site. Where in Ga are you?
Do you have a multi-meter or test light?
Have you checked the inertia switch in the rear? It should only cut power to the fuel pump but wouldn't hurt to check it for power to the fuel pump.
Do you have a multi-meter or test light?
Have you checked the inertia switch in the rear? It should only cut power to the fuel pump but wouldn't hurt to check it for power to the fuel pump.
Winder Ga near Athens. Yes I check the switch it was good. Battery is dead now from constantly clicking all night. Just odd behavior for no obvious electrical damage. I did get it out of park with the manual release switxh.
stamp11127
Full Access Members
Ah, more info. I'm way on the other side of ATL in Temple, so it would be a pretty good drive.
The clicking is a problem with the electrical system. Electrical issues are usually only evident right before the flames start. Charge the battery back up and feel which relay is clicking. That will tell you the circuit that is giving trouble.
The passenger side has a bunch of grounds, battery and pcm to get whacked in an accident. Many of the circuits have power all the time with the pcm providing a ground connection. Pinch a wire and the circuit is on instead of off. Battery runs down then. Meter time...
The clicking is a problem with the electrical system. Electrical issues are usually only evident right before the flames start. Charge the battery back up and feel which relay is clicking. That will tell you the circuit that is giving trouble.
The passenger side has a bunch of grounds, battery and pcm to get whacked in an accident. Many of the circuits have power all the time with the pcm providing a ground connection. Pinch a wire and the circuit is on instead of off. Battery runs down then. Meter time...
1955moose
Full Access Members
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
- Posts
- 6,004
- Reaction score
- 1,351
I did just as Stamp said about the clicking relay for my driver's side window. At first I thought my window switch was bad, but turned out to be a bad window relay. When you figure out the culprit relay, try another one, it might be that simple. Hopefully it is.
Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk
Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk
stamp11127
Full Access Members
I assumed it was a relay clicking but you didn't state that. What was clicking just to be sure?
If you are at home with the vehicle, as the battery is charging the clicking may start again. No need to wait for a fully charged battery if it does in order to determine which circuit it is on.
If you are at home with the vehicle, as the battery is charging the clicking may start again. No need to wait for a fully charged battery if it does in order to determine which circuit it is on.
So the vehicle is at the body shop to get an estimate done and may be totaled due to cost vs value. They put it on a jump box and was able to crank it and it ran so long as the jump box was attached but would die when it was disconnected. Could it be as simple as a bad battery getting a jolt during the impact and now not working? If so would the alternator that is brand new (2 weeks) not have kept the truck running? If I can figure the running problem out I'm going to get the vehicle and repair it myself. I can change or rebuild any part including engines but my diagnostic skills need work. Any ideas. I have not been able to check anything suggested so far due to it going to the shop.
99WhiteC5Coupe
Full Access Members
It sure sounds as though the battery is the culprit.
A bad battery can cause all kinds of weird electrical problems in modern vehicles.
Perhaps the crash caused the internal plate separators to break, causing one or more shorted-cells? Is the battery a high-quality one, or a China-Mart special?
Hamfisted
Full Access Members
There should be a week and year stamped on top of the negative post. If it’s more than 5 years old I’d replace it with a new group 65 battery. The Walmart batteries are pretty good for the money.
Concrat
Congratz!
BTW I was betting that it was the wire where the fusible link is. Just didn't want to get yelled at about how dumb and impossible that would be
Go in the trunk, pop the panel near the driver's side taillight, press the fuel cutoff switch inside and try again
It's an oversensitive system designed to prevent fuel fires, if it senses any kind of impact it shuts off the fuel pump until the button is pressed.
It's an oversensitive system designed to prevent fuel fires, if it senses any kind of impact it shuts off the fuel pump until the button is pressed.
stamp11127
Full Access Members
How is a tripped inertia switch going to keep the starter from turning when it only cuts power to the fuel pump?
Bedrck47 is stirring in me......
Bedrck47 is stirring in me......
Frank Swygert
Well-Known Member
Alternator won't keep the vehicle running by itself, not a modern vehicle! If the battery voltage drops much below 10V (sometimes 9V) it won't run. Since it runs with the jump pack, I'd suspect the battery is bad.
If the damage isn't too bad and you're a bit handy with doing some of the work yourself, ask the insurance company what the pay-out would be if you kept the wreck and fix it yourself. This only works well if you plan on keeping and using the vehicle, as it will have a salvage title and further reduced value after. As long as you can drive the value out of it who cares if it would be harder to sell or reduced value with a salvage title? That might hinder plans to fix and sell though.
If the damage isn't too bad and you're a bit handy with doing some of the work yourself, ask the insurance company what the pay-out would be if you kept the wreck and fix it yourself. This only works well if you plan on keeping and using the vehicle, as it will have a salvage title and further reduced value after. As long as you can drive the value out of it who cares if it would be harder to sell or reduced value with a salvage title? That might hinder plans to fix and sell though.
RogerD1959
2.5 Months Ltr, and Final Bill 22K+
Somem else gos on wth dem, battrys, specialy if dey be lead acid, kinds been round for, well, rekon, since the Model T. Thems geetin better, but inneards aint changed much. Take er stump jumping couple weekends in a row, see how long dat new battry lasts! Seriously though, I hope you didn't leave any blood on the pavement? Problem with batteries since the beginning of time, the lead plates inside them. They last longer of you only cruse the boulevard, the rougher they ride, the sooner they die. The newer, very expensive, $300.00+ for my 2016 Expy, batteries, with the round cells, looks like you have a half dozen tall boys when you carry it out of the store. The way they are built is totally different from what we are used to seeing, no plates for one thing. Never looked inside one, you can't, but the stuff inside is wound real tight so it wont cause issues and is less prone to vibration and shock, a simpletons explanation. They take abuse far better than the mainstream, old school, square ones on the market. Don't know how my new one is going to last, just replaced the never replaced one in my 2016. In 2012 I replaced the one in my 2006 Excursion with one of the six pack kind, it was still going strong when I sold it this passed spring. However, there is a trick, don't just buy the cheapest one that fits your truck, unless it has deep cycle, like marine batteries kind of, capability. Not only do these things suck gas, they will drink all the juice out of a regular battery, depending on what else you have in the truck wanting volts when the engine is off, in about a week and a half. I got sick of that with the Excursion, swapped the battery out for a six pack, deep cycle, truck battery. I only had to make sure to start it every three weeks or so to keep it topped up, and the electrical vampires happy.
yet..... people still post w/ suggestions. LOL
Similar threads
