Parasitic Draw - Stumped and Hoping for help

[Ford Family]

2015 Expedition EL - King Ranch

From the start:

Came out to a dead battery one day. Went and got a brand new battery, Positive Terminal was super corroded and screw broke not allowing me to tighten it down. So I got this replaced as well. (after market since OEM was entire wire harness). After this it would work for a few days and then randomly come out to a dead battery (vehicle is driven nearly daily). First thing I checked was Rear Wiper, as I had this problem on a previous expedition. Works great, super smooth and is not causing the drain. I have double checked all lights are off. On a couple of occassions have seen where the SYNC seems to be trying to stay on, but not every time. The power Running boards, can be wonky, where we set them to out, then computer resets it to auto so they will be in. I pulled the fuse for the power running boards and drove with them stuck out, but battery drain continued to happen.

Battery charges up to 12.6 range. When running getting over 14. I have taken the alternator out brought it in for testing and it passed as well. On nights that it draws down within 12 hours it gets down to the 8's. I have had it as low as in the 4's once.

I have now twice, gone through and done a parasitic draw test, pulling every fuse from both Engine Bay & Passenger box. Not a single fuse has made the test drop at all. (For Test I used the negative terminal, taking it off and putting my volt meter between battery and cable). I have been searching, reading forums, you tubes and unable to find anything causing this.

I also have removed the cable on the nut of the alternator and this as well did not drop the draw (read on one of these posts). I do not have the door chime issue that people have mentioned as well.

Anyone have any other recommendations, before this vehicle ends up at the dealership to try and figure out what in the world is causing me these issues.

Have a code blue Reader, and these are the codes that I have also pulled off of the vehicle after I recharge the battery and it is running. (Some I figure may be due to the battery dying) -
Original Codes:
3 Instrument Panel Control Module / PATS Codes - U0533, U0534, U3003
3 Power Steering Control Module Codes - U3003, U0121, U0140
2 Restraint Control Module (airbag) codes - U3003, U0140
1 Powertrain control Module code - P2602
1 Front Controls Interface Module Code - U3003
2 Steering Column Control Module Codes - B137F, U2101

Cleared Codes and getting these now:
3 Generic/Body Electronic Module (TPMS/PATS) Codes - U0100, U3003, U0212
4 Accessory Protocol Interface Module Codes - B1215, U0151, U0184, U3003


Any help is GREATLY Appreciated, hate bringing vehicles in but with all the electronics getting harder to figure out some of these issues.

 

[GlennSullivan]

Without getting into the hundreds of things it could possibly be, one thing jumps out at me, because I went down the same road with my 2017.

You talk about the battery terminal being completely corroded and the OEM replacement not being available except as the complete power harness. That is not correct, Ford wants you to think that but they sell the correct terminal and it is shown below, even though it says it does not fit my 2017.


My concern is that in the process of your terminal failing or switching to another type of terminal, the battery management system - a good deal of which is bolted to the positive terminal - was damaged or altered in some way, causing the problem you are experiencing.

Rather than repeating everything I learned by going through the process and reposting all the pictures, I'll just link the thread below, start reading at post number 13.

I'd clear all of the codes and take the truck for a ride to see what, if any come back, and then work with them, seeing if any relate even remotely to the battery management system (not sure I'm using the correct Ford term).

2017 Expedition Positive Battery Terminal

I had the green fungus on my positive terminal. The cause was a cracked battery case at the base of the terminal. I cleaned it up, replaced the terminal (see photo in post #7), and sealed the terminal base with JB Weld. Worked well enough until new battery time.

www.expeditionforum.com

 

[bodabdan]

Improper voltage on any late model vehicle can cause chaos.

You mentioned that you used your voltmeter between the battery and the cable. Were you checking for amperage or voltage on that test?

Check your battery voltage with ground cable disconnected and let it sit overnight. Read it again in the morning, shouldn't really change much at all, eliminating the battery as a likely suspect.

Verify your ground straps and the other end of both battery cables.

There are also fusible links that could be feeding a bad circuit, check them just like you checked your fused circuits.

There are inductive clamp-on DC amp meters out there. They are a great tool for this type of troubleshooting.

When a charging system runs over 13.8 volts, it's either making up for a partially discharged battery (which should be a short term event), or a poor connection in the charging circuit is forcing the alternator to push really hard to get power to the battery. This high voltage can affect vehicle systems and can cook the battery.

 

[Yupster Dog]

Original Codes:
3 Instrument Panel Control Module / PATS Codes - U0533, U0534, U3003
3 Power Steering Control Module Codes - U3003, U0121, U0140
2 Restraint Control Module (airbag) codes - U3003, U0140
1 Powertrain control Module code - P2602
1 Front Controls Interface Module Code - U3003
2 Steering Column Control Module Codes - B137F, U2101

Cleared Codes and getting these now:
3 Generic/Body Electronic Module (TPMS/PATS) Codes - U0100, U3003, U0212
4 Accessory Protocol Interface Module Codes - B1215, U0151, U0184, U3003

Just to make sure everything is getting the volts that it needs before moving on with diagnosis,
Check Ground connections. When you get many codes from different modules a lifted or intermediate ground could be your problem.
A VOLTAGE DROP TEST of the battery cables positive and negative. Easy test to do and will keep you from running in circles.

 

[plumcolr]

Something no one thinks of, but bit me once - check to make sure the lights on the sun visor mirror turn off when the visors are in the stowed position