Power Door lock relay

[ltsmas]

the power door locks are clicking like they are constantly locking and unlocking the doors. the remote will not unlock the doors and the keyless entry won't work. The only way I can unlock the door is to use the key in the door. I've checked the fuses in the interior fuse box and all are fine.
Where is the power door lock relay and how difficult is it to replace?

 

[Bedrck47]

It is always best to know the year information when asking for electrical help.

How did you check the fuses in the interior fuse box??
And why didn't you check fuses in the under hood fuse box??

The relays clicking could be due to a bad ground connection. Have you checked them?

The power door lock relay is behind the right side dash panel there are 3 relays located there

 

[ltsmas]

thanks for your reply. Sorry I didn't provide all of the info. We have a 2000 Eddie Bauer with about 222K miles. I checked the fuses by taking out the old one and putting in a new one. After I replaced all on the interior fuse panel, the problem still existed which left only the one in the fuse box under the hood. I didn't have that kind of fuse at that time. I have more fuses now so I will try that this morning. If we have to replace the relay - how do we get to it under the dash?

 

[Bedrck47]

The doors do not lock/unlock using the remote transmitter
CJB Fuse 8.
CJB Fuse 4.
Keyless entry remote transmitter battery.
Keyless entry remote transmitter.
Driver unlock relay.
Circuitry.
Remote anti-theft personality (RAP) module.

The auto-lock does not operate correctly
Circuitry.
RAP module.
Generic electronic module (GEM).

No communication with the module — remote anti-theft personality (RAP)
CJB Fuse 8 (5A).
CJB Fuse 4 (15A).
Circuitry.
RAP module.

The doors do not lock/unlock using the keyless entry keypad
Keyless entry keypad.
Circuits.
RAP module.


No communication with the module — GEM
CJB Fuses:
15 (5A).
8 (5A).
6 (5A).
20 (5A).
Circuitry.
GEM.

Also check fuse #15 in the battery junction box under hood
the relays are located under the panel on the dash passenger side

 

[Bedrck47]

Use a meter or test light to check fuses

 

[Bedrck47]

Also check the ground connections behind the front kick panels Both sides Make sure they are clean and tight.

 

[ltsmas]

We had the truck witj our mechanic last week for something else and he showed my husband something inside the driver's door hinge. What is that?

 

[Flexpedition]

This is the door switch. I'd say catch or latch moreso than hinge. They are known to stick and cause issues. Try some WD40. Very common issue with 97-03/4 F150's and accordingly 97-02 Expeditions as well.

 

[ltsmas]

Power lock relay

But we have had no problems with the door latch, just the door locks. It's been working steadily for the last week or so, but at least 3 times since we got it from our mechanic 2 weeks ago, it has done the same thing with the clicking noises like it is locking and unlocking. What our mechanic showed my husband is something was something inside the door hinge - it's inside an accordion type black rubber casing.

 

[Bedrck47]

What I am about to say is not meant to offend you but most likely will. You posted about a problem with your door locks and you the wife are given 3 hand information about what the mechanic showed your husband. Mechanic showed your husband, husband told you, (since you don't say that you were also shown) and now you are posting it on the forum.

First The components that control the locks are located near the latch not " something inside the door hinge" See the area in the pic that was posted by Flexpedition.

Second It would be very helpful if you could also post a picture of what you are trying to explain.

In order to get to the door lock components you will need to remove the door panel.

Going back to your original post about checking fuses The best way to check a fuse is either with a meter or a test light. You chose to replace all the fuses which is the expensive way and could be very possible that a new fuse could have been bad. Only checking wih a meter or test light would prove if they are good or bad.

Also again you state "and he showed my husband something inside the driver's door hinge. What is that?" To be honest with you I have no idea what would be inside of the drivers door hinge. The hinge is what connects the door to the frame

 

[ltsmas]

power door locks

AKA Bedrck 46 no offense taken. I included a link to a pic (below) of the door of an Expedition. What our mechanic showed my husband is to the left of the door lock switches in the cavity between the door and the inside of the truck - which is in the hinge area. Our mechanic said something about cutting open the black accordian type rubber casing. I don't know what's inside that so I can research it for my husband. I was hoping that someone in this forum would know what I am talking about and help. I am sorry if I cannot describe it well. I know the terms for the engine and drivetrain, but don't know specific names for parts on the frame and interior of the truck. If I was a mechanic and well-versed on these issues I wouldn't be posting here, I would know what it is called and move forward. The link is below.


https://sp.yimg.com/xj/th?id=OIP.M57a09ace6b5aab39d87486863ea90abao0&pid=15.1&P=0&w=223&h=168

 

[Bedrck47]

"Our mechanic said something about cutting open the black accordian type rubber casing."

The only thing that is inside of "the black accordion type rubber casing." is wires.

You should have no need to cut into that unless you are having problems with a broken or shorted wire. That cover is there to protect the wires which are on the inside of that cover.

I have attached two pics of the passenger door from my 2001 expy you 2000 is the same.

What has been so confusing in this is that you are again passing information 3 hand and in your original post it appeared that you were referring to the drivers door as that is the only door that has the keyless entry keypad on it and also the only door that you can use the key to open except for the rear hatch.

As I tried to explain to you The door lock components are located on the inside of the door near the latch and you would need to remove the door panel to get to the connectors. At this point you will achieve nothing but cutting the "the black accordion type rubber casing" in fact you may cause more harm if you have no idea what you are doing.

I am also including a print of the drivers door wiring and that should give you some idea where the components/connectors are located.


Do your locks work when you use the switches on the drivers and passenger door???

 

[ltsmas]

Thank you so much. This is quite a comprehensive response. The locks have been working most days for the past several weeks. I am really confused because a few times they regressed to the clicking noises! We wilk try what you suggested!! Thanx!

 

[sporta]

"Our mechanic said something about cutting open the black accordian type rubber casing."

The only thing that is inside of "the black accordion type rubber casing." is wires.

You should have no need to cut into that unless you are having problems with a broken or shorted wire. That cover is there to protect the wires which are on the inside of that cover.

I have attached two pics of the passenger door from my 2001 expy you 2000 is the same.

What has been so confusing in this is that you are again passing information 3 hand and in your original post it appeared that you were referring to the drivers door as that is the only door that has the keyless entry keypad on it and also the only door that you can use the key to open except for the rear hatch.

As I tried to explain to you The door lock components are located on the inside of the door near the latch and you would need to remove the door panel to get to the connectors. At this point you will achieve nothing but cutting the "the black accordion type rubber casing" in fact you may cause more harm if you have no idea what you are doing.

I am also including a print of the drivers door wiring and that should give you some idea where the components/connectors are located.


Do your locks work when you use the switches on the drivers and passenger door???

Hi all, sorry to hijack this post but I am having a similar issue with my 2001 Expo XLT. We have had issues in the past with the rear driver's door not locking and unlocking and have been living with it (easy at the time to simply reach back and lock/unlock as needed) however, now it has gotten to the point where the unlock/lock demons have migrated. From the keypad on the drivers door we can enter the unlock code and the drivers door unlocks just fine. When we press the key combo to unlock the other doors, we hear the actuators try and unlock but again nothing unlocks. We can enter the key combo on the keypad to lock all doors and with the exception of the aforementioned drivers rear door all will lock. Moving inside, the drivers door lock switch will lock all doors (again excluding drivers rear door). The auto lock feature will lock unlocked doors (except the drivers rear door), however the unlock will ONLY unlock the drivers door. The actuators make a noise like they are trying to unlock but nothing moves upward...any starting points? Its getting really tiring trying to crawl across the beast to unlock the passenger front door and have to use the key to unlock the back hatch. Thanks in advance.

sporta

 

[harliemae]

Sports it's the electric lock mechanism in the rear door. It's not difficult to replace you can pick one up at AutoZone or Rock Auto if I remember right I got mine from Rock Auto it was cheaper. They are just like the electric motors for Windows they just go out without warning. Man it'll make it sound like it's wants to work but something inside is broke and it won't allow it. Mine was the driver's door so I fixed it quickly. There's a couple videos that will show you how to do it if you Google it. All you really need is basic hand tools.

 

[sporta]

Sports it's the electric lock mechanism in the rear door. It's not difficult to replace you can pick one up at AutoZone or Rock Auto if I remember right I got mine from Rock Auto it was cheaper. They are just like the electric motors for Windows they just go out without warning. Man it'll make it sound like it's wants to work but something inside is broke and it won't allow it. Mine was the driver's door so I fixed it quickly. There's a couple videos that will show you how to do it if you Google it. All you really need is basic hand tools.

Good info, thanks. That is what I figured on the rear drivers door, but what would cause the remainder to fail to unlock? The front door switch and key pad will lock all and unlock the drivers only...the passenger front door will lock all and unlock none...Thanks again.

 

[nobycane74]

Interesting read......I am having a parallel issue with my auto-door locks on my '01 Exp. EB.

The Key remote work fine - no issues.

When I start the truck, and throw into gear (drive or reverse), the door locks not automatic lock. that is the primary problem.

The other issue with locks is that once i put into park (with truck on OR off) the door locks will not unlock when I press the buttons....... I have to physically open the door before the locks will engage.

What do you all think???