Oh ok, gotcha, I’ll get my post and like numbers up before giving my opinion. My bad, don’t wanna step on anyone’s feet
Power foaming a 3.5 ecoboost
- Thread starter Nevin
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Please give input! This is how we learn about each other, and share knowledge.
I don’t make statements based on Internet knowledge, I make statements based on personal experience. It sounds like you are similar. I take all the Doom and Gloom on Forums with a grain of salt.
Don’t make assumptions we are all morons(which is hard on the Internet nowadays), and there won’t be any issues. People come at things from different perspectives.
Welcome!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
NASCAR Mike
Full Access Members
Loki, are you spraying the CRC before the turbo or after the turbo. I will assume engine is running?
You spray while engine is running. I spray in via a hose on the top right front of the Intake when doing 150’s with the 3.5. Our Motors have the same hose. I can take a pic of it later today and post.
I follow the instructions the can and videos say to do.
Tip: I have never done it by myself. Because you need to modulate the throttle while spraying. A 2nd person make that possible.
Also, Never used whole can in one application like some of the things say to do.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
A couple of things...1: Sea Foam brand made for DI engines works just follow the directions and have a helper. 2: There is a dip stick on the tranny fill port to check the oil level. There is also a kit to convert it over to a firewall mounted traditional dip stick tube.
Who makes that kit? I would be interested in that!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Weird, I’ll have to look at this. Manual says there is no dipstick to check the fluid level. Thanks for info
Point being made is most on here could research the best way to do a procedure and then be certain they DID do it right as opposed to hoping the flunky who happens to be the one working on yours is having a good day, has more than 2 months experience, is in a good mood, likes his job, cares about doing a good job, treats every vehicle like his own....
Good luck with all that.
The way it often works is the newest flunky gets to do tires and/or oil changes. If they don't strip out too many drain plugs or cross thread too many oil filters then they get to progress into transmission flushes.
Not going to get the Master Tech with 15 + years experience doing heads and timing chains and cam phasers over there to flush a trans.
chuck s
Full Access Members
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2006
- Posts
- 1,990
- Reaction score
- 753
I think the one or two times I've had an on-the-road-on-business oil change at Jiffy Lube they wanted to flush and change my transmission oil. If Jiffy can do it I expect anyone can.
-- Chuck
-- Chuck
They can stick their stupid little flush machine to your radiator cooler lines up front and run fluid through it until it's nice and clean and do a half ass job. Most of them don't do pan drops and filter changes. They will try to convince you that the flush is better or all that's needed.
So after transmission Builder about that. They'll probably tell you they're happy since it gives them better job security.
Anything is better than doing nothing and it's really a shame that Ford quit putting the converter drain plugs on the converters because that was the best thing since the manufacture of auto transmission. You can get your drain pan out drop the pan put a new filter in it drain all the converter also and fill with qts and be happy that you did a complete fluid replacement.
Can you post a pic of the hose you're talking about? I would rather do your way then disconnect at the throttle body.
I will later this evening when it stops raining. Said that in my post.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Can you give a detailed location of the tranny dipstick and maybe pic? My manual says no dipstick. I've looked but can't find one but still learning things about this new to me 17 expy xlt.
Following
If you crawl underneath from the passenger side just look at the rf part of the tranny. On top of it where a fill tube SHOULD be is a 19mm nut that is deep like a lug nut. Loosen it and underneath is a small plastic dipstick. Pull it out and check your atf like you did twenty years ago. I.e. idling in park. It wont fall in, it has a little lip to keep it from going in. Then just put then nut back on when youre done. Easiest way to fill is with a hand pump suction gun kinda thing or with a small 12v transfer pump.
Dipstick also has A and B fill ranges. One is for hot and the other is for cold.
Sorry I double replied earlier. I didn't realize my post had gone onto multiple pages.
And i have cleaned all 3 map sensors already with the crc maf cleaner.
Sorry i meant map before but my autocorrect went to maf.
Dipstick also has A and B fill ranges. One is for hot and the other is for cold.
Sorry I double replied earlier. I didn't realize my post had gone onto multiple pages.
And i have cleaned all 3 map sensors already with the crc maf cleaner.
Sorry i meant map before but my autocorrect went to maf.
Last edited:
Also, my owners manual says to replace the drivetrain fluids at 150k. Looking at the manual leaves me with 2 questions:
1. It gives me two options for transfer case fluid. Merc LV and ford transfer case fluid depending on if I have 4wd with shift on the fly or 4wd with torque on demand. I'm assuming i have shift on the fly, since i have the knob and can select 4wd, is that correct? In which case it says motorcraft transfer case fluid. Is this something I can get anywhere? I mean, its not some magical fluid that I can only get from a dealer is it? Can I go down to my local Napa and get some sort of amsoil equivalent?
2. It recommends 80w90 for the differentials unless it has been filled with 75w140 synthetic. So could i just put in 75w140? It couldnt do any harm, eh?
1. It gives me two options for transfer case fluid. Merc LV and ford transfer case fluid depending on if I have 4wd with shift on the fly or 4wd with torque on demand. I'm assuming i have shift on the fly, since i have the knob and can select 4wd, is that correct? In which case it says motorcraft transfer case fluid. Is this something I can get anywhere? I mean, its not some magical fluid that I can only get from a dealer is it? Can I go down to my local Napa and get some sort of amsoil equivalent?
2. It recommends 80w90 for the differentials unless it has been filled with 75w140 synthetic. So could i just put in 75w140? It couldnt do any harm, eh?
Last edited:
Frank Wilson
Full Access Members
Is a "cold" reading accurate?
I mean, it would be preferable to use the warm reading, but i feel like they wouldnt have a cold option if it werent accurate.
*shrug*
But anytime youre checking a tranny, smell and color are just as important as the level reading.
Its a truly multi-sensory experience! Like LSD! Or so I'm told.
*shrug*
But anytime youre checking a tranny, smell and color are just as important as the level reading.
Its a truly multi-sensory experience! Like LSD! Or so I'm told.
2015 has the flawed, direct injection only system. The intake valves are prone to coking and carbonizing. If bad enough, you get a 'check engine' light. It is covered under the 8yr/80k emission warranty. The only true fix is head removal. Foaming the engine, sends the gunk and carbon chunks into the turbos and catalytic converters(nightmare time). Invest in an extended warranty. Some shops do a 'pan drop' and filter change. That leaves about 7 or 8 quarts of dirty fluid behind. Ford dealers offer both flush and/or drain. The system is back flushed with 95% new fluid. My expedition has a drain plug on the converter. The shop replaced around 13qts. The previous owner had it flushed, the pan was spotless and clean, the old fluid was pinkish-brown, at 85K. The new fluid still cherry red after 5yrs. The red however, is just a dye. You can buy it for $5.
Similar threads
