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Project 2nd Gen Expy - NOPE, I’m boned

Discussion in '2nd Gen - 2003 - 2006' started by Al Steel, Sep 16, 2020.

  1. Al Steel

    Al Steel Member

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    UPDATE: Dropped in a fuel pump today and got to get real up close and personal with her undercarriage (heh heh!). It was bad, but nit as bad as I thought. I was able to grind some areas around the tank well down to bare metal, prime and undercoat. I did this because I’ll be DAMNED if I’ll ever do that job again! Ford engineers really get the Blue Falcon award for that fuel pump location and how you have to install a new one. I will not be repeating that task.

    Anywho, I finished up the install, primed the system for about 10 sec and she started up on the second try! Woo hoo! It’s alive! Buuuut my joy soon turned to bitter disappointment because all of the vehicles ills were laid bare. I’ll spare the horrid details but bottom line, it’s a parts vehicle.

    Allow me to elaborate.
    - Exhaust leak, pre cat. Puffing noise, could be a exhaust manifold gasket or hole.
    - Brakes - this is the worst. Feels like at least one caliper is dragging and brake warning light is on. When under the truck I noticed a hacked job on the left rear brake line. Instead of purchasing a proper fabricated replacement, Joe Backyard made a homebuild line and routed it terribly. Plus the repair was leaking near the rear brake. Alo, he left the old line still on the truck!
    - Slight low end knock - it quieted down a bit after it warmed up but it was still there.
    - Rough idle after warmUp - could be bad gas, clogged injectors from sitting, could be a bad plug. Not sure but wluld be a pita to run down.
    - and don’t forget the rear frame being a mess.

    add all this up and it Just isn’t financially viable so it’s probably going to be a parts car. Very disappointed right now.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2020
  2. RichardH

    RichardH Full Access Members

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    Thanks for the update. You didn't mention how much you picked it up for $$ wise but mentioned interior was great.

    I really like my 2003 EB 2wd 5.4. I paid $4k for it. Add in at least $3K in repairs and preventive maintenance. I have another $400 or so to go but I would be comfortable driving this across the country if I needed to (now). I gave it a lot of thought about buying a newer one for more $$, but as with any used car you can buy someone else's problems. I also liked the fact that it has 9.75" rear diff and mechanical limited slip - not electronic. This truck is killer exterior and interior. In 2019 it had only 144K miles. Engine/drivetrain fine, just some electrical 'niggles'.

    Here is an exterior pic:

    upload_2020-9-20_4-32-2.png

    Anyhow, I'm sure you can find a deal on a mechanically sound one for not too much.

    If I had the space I would consider picking up a donor 2003 EB 2wd for parts - that's a no-go currently.

    I guess there are 3 options:
    1. keep it as donor truck for your next XLT,
    2. start pulling parts and selling on evilbay or craigslist, or
    3. flip it to someone and disclose the condition of the truck.
    Number 3 could be the quickest and fetch the 2nd place in $$. Number 1 could be useful for the interior parts and save a few $$ on spiffing up another XLT. Number 2 sounds like one option that can fetch the most bang for the buck but it will take time and effort.

    I guess a fourth option is to pull some parts (Interior, fuse box/relay junction box, parts of the harness/battery cables - some NLA, the 'brains' of the truck, radio, etc) and sell to a scrap yard.

    Good luck. Let us know what you decide to do. I'm sort of curious in case I am ever in the same boat down the road.

    :cheers:
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2020
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  3. Al Steel

    Al Steel Member

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    Well I guess I can't complain too much because the purchase price was $1000.00 when you add in towing, a new fuel pump, and other incidentals. The thing that it is really upsetting is that the seller said that it was checked out by a "mechanic friend" and it was in good condition, "just needs a fuel pump". So I'm not keen on being lied to. I'm going to call the seller out on it today. I KNOW... I should have known that a cheap Expy would have had some undisclosed/unknown issues but at least I thought it would be somewhat usable. Spending $4K+ in repairs just to get this on the road is not possible. It's is a giant white elephant sitting in front my house now.

    If anyone in the DC area needs a donor '03 it's all yours for a very low price. I'm going to post it up in BST and hopefully someone needs the parts.

    Full disclosure, here's my abbreviated list of what I can see is wrong with it, there could be more!:

    Engine/Powertrain
    - Starts easily, runs at high idle fine, but when it warms up it idles rough. Will hold idle but doesn't recover well, acts like it want to cut off. Plugs?
    - Very audible exhaust leak noise on drivers side, pre-cat. could be manifold, exhaust gasket, or connecting pipe break or rust through. "Chuffs" loudly when you press on the gas.
    - Reduced power on acceleration, could be the exhaust leak robbing power or a sticking brake caliper.
    - What sounds like rod knock on the lower driver's side but could be the exhaust leak if it's bad enough. Not sure, but the rough idle after warm up is leading me to worn rods, which could mean the engine is almost shot.

    Drivetrain
    - Rear axle driveshaft seal is leaking.
    - Occasional Wobbly (?) feel in the wheels when driving. Could be flat spot in the wheels from sitting so long or could be out of balance.
    Electrical
    - Driver's window switch is sticky. Takes a few tries to get the button to work rolling up.
    - Driver's seat won't lower. Could be switch or motor.
    - Alternator looks like it's over-charging slightly... gauge reads a little above centerline which is something I've never seen before. Not sure why that's happening.

    Brakes
    - ** Completely unsafe to drive ** Will need a complete brake system overhaul! Possibly including new brake lines, booster, ABS. Brake pedal does not feel right.
    - Non-professional repair on drivers rear brake line. Leaks BADLY. I topped off the fluid and in a short 1 mile test drive ALL the reservoir was almost empty.
    - Sticking caliper(s) - Feels like the engine was fighting the brakes on the test drive. Almost like I was driving with the parking brake on.
    - Brake Warning indicator light is illuminated on the dash. Probably because it's detecting loss of brake pressure.

    Body
    - Moderate rust thru in rear frame - see pics above - will not pass safety inspection. Will need professional welding to repair.
    - Moderate rust in wheel well edges.
    - Moderate rust on driver's side rocker panel.
    - Paint peeling on lower plastic trim panels.
    - All windshield wipers will need replacing.

    The good news is that the transmission and drive train APPEAR to be in good shape.
    - No noticeable issues on test drive. Shifts smoothly into all gears. No grinding or clunking
    - 4WD operates. Shifts into all 4WD modes and rides smoothly, no grinding or clunking

    Everything on the car works. All the electronic gadgets work, windows go up and down, locks function, and the interior is in great shape. No smell or bad stains, only the driver seat has a tear on the side.

    So that's about it, I don't plan to spend much more time on it. Look for this in BST later today, it will go as-is. If it doesn't sell as a donor car then I will likely try to find out what the salvage price will be. Has to go soon so it doesn't get a ticket. I'd part it, but it would have to sit in my driveway (won't really fit in the garage), in town, under a tarp because no unregistered/tagged vehicles are allowed on residential streets or visible on private property. Plus the wifey isn't happy about it, and.. you know... happy wife, happy life.. I like to keep it that way!
     
  4. Hamfisted

    Hamfisted Full Access Members

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    I'd just call a salvage yard and see if they want it for the doors and glass ( and fuel tank...) if that's useable. Really, nobody's gonna want that thing sitting in front of their house either. A salvage yard may not even want it the way it is.
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2020
  5. Trainmaster

    Trainmaster Old School Member

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    Around here, they fetch $300 for scrap if they have the aluminum wheels. Mine had an external head gasket oil leak with 265,000 miles and I couldn't give it away.
     
  6. Brandon K

    Brandon K Member

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    Sell parts off it until you run out of easy $, then scrap it.
     
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  7. RichardH

    RichardH Full Access Members

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    Yes. If you were local and it was EB with good interior as you mentioned I would buy parts from you. I think BrandonK's idea is a good one as I mentioned also.

    I'd remove some of the parts I mentioned on a previous post and sell.
     
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  8. MrSticker

    MrSticker Full Access Members

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  9. Aspen03

    Aspen03 Full Access Members

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    Just sell it. That's a long list of things, you could buy a drivable one for half of what you'll spend in repairs.

    I paid $3100 for mine in spring of '19. Almost new tires, had all service records,, and everything worked except rear pass window. Still runs great today. More miles of course but as you can see low miles means nothing in terms of overall condition.
     
  10. Davec_va

    Davec_va New Member

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    That is one long list of repairs...And in Northern Virginia?!?! yeah- that'll pass inspection up there LOL!

    I was looking for Expy's up there and a lot of people said many dealers buy from NJ/MA/NY - all those heavy snow states. Lots of rusted out Expy's and Navi's up there.

    I've got a 2000 Navi that's got quite a bit of rust under it. Not quite as bad as yours but, not worth repairing either. I'm thinking about yanking the 5.4 DOHC and 4R100 out of it and saving them for a rainy day. (Or maybe a non-rusty Expy build...)
     

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